nick nikos2002 just a quick thanks.. you nailed it on the troubleshooting. when i got back to the track i was able to recreate the issue, and then troubleshoot. the negative battery bullet connector (the cheap kind!) was jiggly. I resoldered castle bullets the more solid style on and voila..that seems to have been my problem. ran several packs without issue.. tracks been closed this past week for rebuild, and tomorrow i should be able to go push jay around there a little ;-) and test somemore.

btw, i know its not your market, but i just built a buggy for the boys (9,10) by getting a used B5, used futaba 3PMX, spektrum 6040 and hobbywing justock 17.5 combo. really which i could have found a costs effective good combo from viper to stay with ya for that. one. Viper will def be the choice if they ever release a ST5 or i give in for a 4.2!

Anyone have a setup for a VTX8 with a 550 2 pole motor in a 4x4 short course truck? My 4 pole Tekin is in rough shape and I am trying to get through Christmas with either a Novak 4.5 turn 550 2 pole or an Orion 4.5 turn 550 2 pole. I'm guessing the throttle frequency of the 4 pole will probably generate a ton of heat in the 2 pole so I probably need to switch profiles.

Nikos2002- how do I know if I have the most recent software? I am running profile1 with pwm at 12000. Esc is running approx. 140 degrees. At what temp should I be worried about overheating.

@ Nikos,
any idea when the sets ( VIPER08VF821 ) will be back at the shops ?
thanks

I have run 550 2 poles with a throttle frequency of 16k and I set the punch all the way up to 90%, just monitor temps with the punch that high but it gives you plenty of grunt with a ballistic 4.5 of course set the motor type to 2 pole then everything else to your liking

I have a quite bad expirience with Viper. I don't know what it is but it looks like they are nog 1/10th buggy proof. This is my fourth Viper 3 before died. I saw 2 others dying at my track to. I think the swith is waaaaay to bad. Last race. My car suddenly stopped. When I gave the swith a little tick. It turned on again? Yup, missed the A-main. I love how they perform. But performance is nothing if they are not reliable. I will turn over tot another brand now. I really liked them. And tried it. But after 4 times (the same problem) I'm done with it. I'm very disapointed in this brand. The customer service is great. I just think it is a fault in the switch.

got to tun my vf4 4500 this weekend had tons of power anywhere on the track and was actually pulling the wheels in some spots under hard acceleration. we wound up running a 8 min main and with about a min of warmup I used 4900mah out of my pack. I would say that is pretty efficent compared to what I used to have to run to make an 8 min run with a different brands motor.

When you had the others serviced, what did viper report back as the problem that was found?

What motors have you run in the past and what vehicle were you using this in?

Been curious about performance of the motor in 4x4 SCT relative to "545" sized motors like the Hobbywing 3656SD I currently run and the 550 Tekin. Not expecting that level of power as it is a 540 but curious how it feels in general, as well as temps since the came is smooth versus other vipers that are ribbed.

i ran it in my sct410. One of the heavier sct's on the market out of the box. It performed perfect. Last motor i had used in in 4x4 was a tekin pro4 4600. I have not used an hd so cant compare. I was running with some using an HD this weekend and i was not getting out motored anywhere on the track.

Cool good info.

Anyone have specs on the rotor dimensions for the VF motor, heck, would love to see a side by side photo comparison to other motors out there.

I did not open mine up. I just put it in the car and ran it. It is a 540 sized motor.

At this time I have no other motors to compare it to so i would not be able to help you with any of those pics.

I've got a VTX10 and a viper 7.5 motor I'm running in a stadium truck. I keep having issues with it shutting down (except for steering) and then eventually taking back off while racing. Happened with different batteries, including new ones. Temps don't seem to be too high. Ran qualifiers the other night with no issue but it cut out twice during Main.

have you tried a new sensor wire or a different motor with the same results?

Thermal protection. Raise the motor temp cutoff setting. Mine is around 230. Check esc setting as well.

If it goes into thermal protection, I don't think it turns back on. It sounds to me like a voltage loss or spike. When the ESC sees a voltage loss (like a loose battery connection) it will shut down and reboot. When this happens you will still have steering but no throttle until the booting up finishes.

Check your battery connections. I used to have issues with Deans connectors that I did not realize were worn. After installing new ones the issue went away. I now use 5mm bullets and love them. Zero issues of shutting down in any of the vehicles that I run.