4LikesViper RC -
07-14-2011 | 06:18 PM
#2221
Hey guys, trying my 10r in my ae again after learning how to solder. I also "shoe horned" the viper 5.5xl into this bad boy and I have some questions.
1st- what does gearing "up" mean?
2nd- what pinnion is recommend for this motor?
3nd- what temps should I be getting for this setup for each the motor and Esc?
Much thanks
JT
1st- what does gearing "up" mean?
2nd- what pinnion is recommend for this motor?
3nd- what temps should I be getting for this setup for each the motor and Esc?
Much thanks
JT
07-14-2011 | 06:28 PM
#2222
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 182
Hey guys, trying my 10r in my ae again after learning how to solder. I also "shoe horned" the viper 5.5xl into this bad boy and I have some questions.
1st- what does gearing "up" mean?
2nd- what pinnion is recommend for this motor?
3nd- what temps should I be getting for this setup for each the motor and Esc?
Much thanks
JT
1st- what does gearing "up" mean?
2nd- what pinnion is recommend for this motor?
3nd- what temps should I be getting for this setup for each the motor and Esc?
Much thanks
JT
2nd depending on track size, 13-15
3rd anywhere from 130 and up on esc, and 140 and up on motor.
Dont forget temps will vary greatly on tracksize and gearing, settings in the speed control, and driving style. Hope it helps.
07-14-2011 | 07:18 PM
#2223
Tech Initiate
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 22
From: Seattle
VTX10/10R Sensorless Mode
Therefore, we finalized the VTX10/10R ESC to be a true sensored system. It will only run sensored mode.
FWIW I haven't had any probs with the VTX / VTS combo in my SCT these last coupla' months once they were released to John Q. Public.
07-14-2011 | 08:15 PM
#2225
Tech Master
iTrader: (156)
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,374
I wired up my 10r to a 6.5 550, Got to the track to try it out and plugged it in and had a second of it running(never sat it down) than nothing. The lights on the on/off button won't go on, tried different batteries, rechecked all the wiring.
What else should I try?
What else should I try?
07-14-2011 | 08:22 PM
#2226
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,215
From: gowrie, iowa
i have had both the rs and a 10r. the viper system seems to lock in the sensor wire much better than the tekin. my rs seemed very loose and i made sure to tie it in a way that it couldn't come loose. the viper needs a really good pull on it to come loose.
07-14-2011 | 08:57 PM
#2227
Fill out the RMA here and the crew at the shop will get it all fixed up for you.
http://viper-rc.com/contact.php
07-14-2011 | 08:58 PM
#2228
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 153
I got smashed into the rear racing SCT with a pretty new guy in the class. Going from a brushed motor to a 3800 4 pole Castle on a 3S, yes, 3S, was too much for him to handle in a 2WD SCT (who woulda thunk?) and he blasted me in the left rear, dislodging my sensor wire. It only popped out the sensor wire thankfully, I though for sure it would take out a ball stud or something, thankfully HPI ships the ESE with titanium turnbuckles and STRC makes aluminum rear hubs, they held up like a champ.
07-14-2011 | 09:10 PM
#2229
ran my 10r and 5.5 550 at the track today in my hyper 10sc.
Im running it in race stock (blinky mode)
with the SC RAGE setup
VTX10R-Profile #1, Brake strength 95%, Brake PWM freq 8000Hz, Brake curve linear, Neutral Drag brake 0%, THROTTLE PWM freq 9600Hz, Throttle punch 20%-30%, Throttle curve linear, Deadband middle, no timing - default, not motor protection, esc protection 220 degrees
Esc temps under 110 motor temps under 130.
And his whole post Quoted for refrence. BOOK MARK IT PEOPLE! for the 10r in the 4x4 trucks these are the settings to base off of!
Im running it in race stock (blinky mode)
with the SC RAGE setup
VTX10R-Profile #1, Brake strength 95%, Brake PWM freq 8000Hz, Brake curve linear, Neutral Drag brake 0%, THROTTLE PWM freq 9600Hz, Throttle punch 20%-30%, Throttle curve linear, Deadband middle, no timing - default, not motor protection, esc protection 220 degrees
Esc temps under 110 motor temps under 130.
And his whole post Quoted for refrence. BOOK MARK IT PEOPLE! for the 10r in the 4x4 trucks these are the settings to base off of!
Had a great day of testing and found some helpful settings for those of you running our VTX10R ESC and planning on running our 550 motors.
VST5.5XL- 15tooth pinion. VTX10R-Profile #2, Brake strength 80%, Brake PWM freq 8000Hz, Brake curve linear, Neutral Drag brake 10%, THROTTLE PWM freq 9600Hz, Throttle punch 20%-30%, Throttle curve linear, Deadband middle, no timing - default, not motor protection, esc protection 240 degrees. (esc temp 130-150)-(motor temp 150-160)
VST4.5XL-14tooth pinion. VTX10R-Profile#2, Brake strength 80%, Brake PWM freq 8000HZ, Brake curve linear, Neutral drag brake 10%, Throttle PWM freq 9600Hz, Throttle punch 15%-20%, Throttle curve linear, Deadband middle, no timing- default, no motor protection, esc protection 240 degrees. (esc temp 120-140)-(motor temp 150-170)
Track type Indoor Clay high bite for both test results. Tests were done in 3min-5min-10min intervals. The brake settings really helped cool down some temps. We also found the under geared motors will run very hot. Be sure to check your gearing, it is very important. I felt that the VST5.5XL was the better choice for indoor racing. The powerband seemed to be a lot wider and smoother for tighter tracks. The VST4.5XL was impressive but was a bit much for the track. Lap times were more consistent with the VST5.5XL, and the temps were much easier to manage. All of our testing was done with a fairly stock Losi TEN-SCTE, A very heavy 4WD short course as most of you already know. The settings provided here were a bench mark to help those who are new to the brand and even some who are quite familiar. Give these a try and let us know how they work at your track.
VST5.5XL- 15tooth pinion. VTX10R-Profile #2, Brake strength 80%, Brake PWM freq 8000Hz, Brake curve linear, Neutral Drag brake 10%, THROTTLE PWM freq 9600Hz, Throttle punch 20%-30%, Throttle curve linear, Deadband middle, no timing - default, not motor protection, esc protection 240 degrees. (esc temp 130-150)-(motor temp 150-160)
VST4.5XL-14tooth pinion. VTX10R-Profile#2, Brake strength 80%, Brake PWM freq 8000HZ, Brake curve linear, Neutral drag brake 10%, Throttle PWM freq 9600Hz, Throttle punch 15%-20%, Throttle curve linear, Deadband middle, no timing- default, no motor protection, esc protection 240 degrees. (esc temp 120-140)-(motor temp 150-170)
Track type Indoor Clay high bite for both test results. Tests were done in 3min-5min-10min intervals. The brake settings really helped cool down some temps. We also found the under geared motors will run very hot. Be sure to check your gearing, it is very important. I felt that the VST5.5XL was the better choice for indoor racing. The powerband seemed to be a lot wider and smoother for tighter tracks. The VST4.5XL was impressive but was a bit much for the track. Lap times were more consistent with the VST5.5XL, and the temps were much easier to manage. All of our testing was done with a fairly stock Losi TEN-SCTE, A very heavy 4WD short course as most of you already know. The settings provided here were a bench mark to help those who are new to the brand and even some who are quite familiar. Give these a try and let us know how they work at your track.
07-14-2011 | 09:36 PM
#2230
Tech Adept
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 109
From: San Diego, CA
Psh, if you're not crashing you're not trying. Checkers or wreckers. Lol.
I got smashed into the rear racing SCT with a pretty new guy in the class. Going from a brushed motor to a 3800 4 pole Castle on a 3S, yes, 3S, was too much for him to handle in a 2WD SCT (who woulda thunk?) and he blasted me in the left rear, dislodging my sensor wire. It only popped out the sensor wire thankfully, I though for sure it would take out a ball stud or something, thankfully HPI ships the ESE with titanium turnbuckles and STRC makes aluminum rear hubs, they held up like a champ.
I got smashed into the rear racing SCT with a pretty new guy in the class. Going from a brushed motor to a 3800 4 pole Castle on a 3S, yes, 3S, was too much for him to handle in a 2WD SCT (who woulda thunk?) and he blasted me in the left rear, dislodging my sensor wire. It only popped out the sensor wire thankfully, I though for sure it would take out a ball stud or something, thankfully HPI ships the ESE with titanium turnbuckles and STRC makes aluminum rear hubs, they held up like a champ.
I've taken some ugly spills with the Viper gear in my truck and it's still going strong. Whereas with Castle I'm on my third MMP (once they finally have stock again that is) and I'm on my second Sidewinder/SV2 
Anyone else familiar with "three weeks"? :P
07-14-2011 | 11:17 PM
#2231
LOL! Too true I've taken some ugly spills with the Viper gear in my truck and it's still going strong. Whereas with Castle I'm on my third MMP (once they finally have stock again that is) and I'm on my second Sidewinder/SV2 Anyone else familiar with "three weeks"? :P
I've taken some ugly spills with the Viper gear in my truck and it's still going strong. Whereas with Castle I'm on my third MMP (once they finally have stock again that is) and I'm on my second Sidewinder/SV2 Anyone else familiar with "three weeks"? :P
07-15-2011 | 09:44 AM
#2234
Are any lights coming on at all? How long are u holding the button to turn it on?? Are u using bullet plugs? Could be a bad one if so
07-15-2011 | 10:24 AM
#2235
