Viper RC -
#9721
silivas- here is the copperhead set up I have run before:
Brake strength- level 7
Brake curve- exp+2
Drag brake- level 2
Throttle punch - level 3
Curve - Exp +1
Dead band - middle
Motor Timing - Level 6
Run Mode- 1 second Reverse
Motor Direction - normal
Start Power- Level 6
Forward Power Level 10
Brake strength- level 7
Brake curve- exp+2
Drag brake- level 2
Throttle punch - level 3
Curve - Exp +1
Dead band - middle
Motor Timing - Level 6
Run Mode- 1 second Reverse
Motor Direction - normal
Start Power- Level 6
Forward Power Level 10
I fiddled around with his settings a bit for the following race settings:
VXR4.5/Copperhead R/Tekno SCT410 geared at 16/44
Brake strength- level 9
Brake curve- lin
Drag brake- off
Throttle punch - level 7
Curve - lin
Dead band - narrow
Motor Timing - Level 7
Run Mode- Forward Only
Motor Direction - reverse
Start Power- Level 8
Forward Power Level 10
#9723
#9724
Beginning last week, and continuing this week, my VTX8 is exhibiting consistent shutoff/lockout behavior.
The motor runs at full power for 4-5 laps and then the VTX8 goes into some sort of safety mode:
1) The forward and reverse led's blink at the same rate as the normal green 'blinky mode' led and all power to the motor is stopped.
2) Power to the servo continues, as well as power to the transponder.
3) Neither the VTX8 or the VF8 motor are even close to being in thermal shutdown. The motor has been around 130 degrees each time it stopped. The VTX8 is cool at under 110 degrees.
4) As soon as the VTX8 is re-booted, it functions normally- even if it's only 10 seconds later. Then it will run normally for a 4-5 more laps, only to shut down again.
The VTX8 worked consistently well for the past 4 months and this is the first sign of a problem. Is there a 'reset' function under which I can wipe out all of the custom profiles and return it to it's original factory setting?
Or am I looking at sending it back to get fixed?
Robert Conner
Omaha, Nebraska
The motor runs at full power for 4-5 laps and then the VTX8 goes into some sort of safety mode:
1) The forward and reverse led's blink at the same rate as the normal green 'blinky mode' led and all power to the motor is stopped.
2) Power to the servo continues, as well as power to the transponder.
3) Neither the VTX8 or the VF8 motor are even close to being in thermal shutdown. The motor has been around 130 degrees each time it stopped. The VTX8 is cool at under 110 degrees.
4) As soon as the VTX8 is re-booted, it functions normally- even if it's only 10 seconds later. Then it will run normally for a 4-5 more laps, only to shut down again.
The VTX8 worked consistently well for the past 4 months and this is the first sign of a problem. Is there a 'reset' function under which I can wipe out all of the custom profiles and return it to it's original factory setting?
Or am I looking at sending it back to get fixed?
Robert Conner
Omaha, Nebraska
#9726
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (123)
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,257
From: Living in Paradise! Not really...
Beginning last week, and continuing this week, my VTX8 is exhibiting consistent shutoff/lockout behavior.
The motor runs at full power for 4-5 laps and then the VTX8 goes into some sort of safety mode:
1) The forward and reverse led's blink at the same rate as the normal green 'blinky mode' led and all power to the motor is stopped.
2) Power to the servo continues, as well as power to the transponder.
3) Neither the VTX8 or the VF8 motor are even close to being in thermal shutdown. The motor has been around 130 degrees each time it stopped. The VTX8 is cool at under 110 degrees.
4) As soon as the VTX8 is re-booted, it functions normally- even if it's only 10 seconds later. Then it will run normally for a 4-5 more laps, only to shut down again.
The VTX8 worked consistently well for the past 4 months and this is the first sign of a problem. Is there a 'reset' function under which I can wipe out all of the custom profiles and return it to it's original factory setting?
Or am I looking at sending it back to get fixed?
Robert Conner
Omaha, Nebraska
The motor runs at full power for 4-5 laps and then the VTX8 goes into some sort of safety mode:
1) The forward and reverse led's blink at the same rate as the normal green 'blinky mode' led and all power to the motor is stopped.
2) Power to the servo continues, as well as power to the transponder.
3) Neither the VTX8 or the VF8 motor are even close to being in thermal shutdown. The motor has been around 130 degrees each time it stopped. The VTX8 is cool at under 110 degrees.
4) As soon as the VTX8 is re-booted, it functions normally- even if it's only 10 seconds later. Then it will run normally for a 4-5 more laps, only to shut down again.
The VTX8 worked consistently well for the past 4 months and this is the first sign of a problem. Is there a 'reset' function under which I can wipe out all of the custom profiles and return it to it's original factory setting?
Or am I looking at sending it back to get fixed?
Robert Conner
Omaha, Nebraska
1. Connect a proper/charged battery pack to the ESC.
2. Power on transmitter.
3. Press and hold the red power button on the V-PORT for three seconds.
(Followed by beep tone, F/N LEDs on the V-PORT will be indicated as the image shown at right)
4. Press the corresponding number of time of the desired profile (refer to TABLE.1 below) on the red power button
on the V-PORT. For example, press 5 times if you wish to load profile 5. The F/R LEDs will be indicated on
every button press.
5. Release the power button for 3 seconds. The VTX ESC will save the profile number and F/R LEDs will be
flashing the number of time of the corresponding profile that it was saved.
6. The VTX ESC will then run an auto system reset. The F/R LEDs will be flashing the corresponding profile number
every time after beeping of system initialization.
#9727
I ran.the 19 pinion.
I.also have 18 to try out.
Thanks all for the great help
#9732
I fiddled around with his settings a bit for the following race settings:
VXR4.5/Copperhead R/Tekno SCT410 geared at 16/44
Brake strength- level 9
Brake curve- lin
Drag brake- off
Throttle punch - level 7
Curve - lin
Dead band - narrow
Motor Timing - Level 7
Run Mode- Forward Only
Motor Direction - reverse
Start Power- Level 8
Forward Power Level 10
VXR4.5/Copperhead R/Tekno SCT410 geared at 16/44
Brake strength- level 9
Brake curve- lin
Drag brake- off
Throttle punch - level 7
Curve - lin
Dead band - narrow
Motor Timing - Level 7
Run Mode- Forward Only
Motor Direction - reverse
Start Power- Level 8
Forward Power Level 10
Nikos, can you comment on the following?
1) Motor timing setting vs gearing up - is there any value in dropping timing on the ESC down and going up a tooth instead? I imagine going up a tooth will have a larger impact on speed/torque?
2) Throttle Punch vs Start Power - start power affects from 0 rpm? Or is there a threshold where it is still in effect, eg, 100rpm? Do both settings take effect at 0? eg, at standstill and you push the trigger, start power setting and throttle punch setting are in effect?
3) Volts cutoff behaviour - I had it set at 3.2V/cell, had it continuously shutoff. I think a couple of my batteries were playing up. Does the cutoff do an immediate power off or something else?
#9733
silvalis - 1) you have the right idea, gearing up can be a bigger change, but I would drop motor timing down if you gear up to confirm no heating issues.
2) Start Power really effects the lag that the throttle trigger will feel before you get reaction from the system. Higher should make it react faster - but will cause the esc to run hotter since its purely a software driven function. Punch is more "at the wheels" with the power relayed to the motor at that instance. Lower will keep the wheels from spinning.
3) If you if hit voltage cut off, the system will shut down and reboot, all 4 pole motors are very hard on batteries. These things hit with really high amp spikes.
2) Start Power really effects the lag that the throttle trigger will feel before you get reaction from the system. Higher should make it react faster - but will cause the esc to run hotter since its purely a software driven function. Punch is more "at the wheels" with the power relayed to the motor at that instance. Lower will keep the wheels from spinning.
3) If you if hit voltage cut off, the system will shut down and reboot, all 4 pole motors are very hard on batteries. These things hit with really high amp spikes.
#9734
bluegroovelosi - what do you have the temperature protection settings at the for the motor and esc. Generally need to be set around 220 - 230. Remember they read internally off the rotor and circuit board of the systems they are measuring and can be 40-60 hotter than what you get outside the case. So if you set the motor cut off to 160 or 180, it may be too low, and cutting off early.
#9735
great info as usual 
I remember my issue with the stuttering I had on power. It looked like my vehicle was multishifting. The VTX8 is more hardcore with voltage cutoff than what I was used to, and to be honest the more I think about it thats a good thing as in a way it tells you "hey, your battery is dropping below the threshold" by doing that versus others ESCs that just let it go by.

I remember my issue with the stuttering I had on power. It looked like my vehicle was multishifting. The VTX8 is more hardcore with voltage cutoff than what I was used to, and to be honest the more I think about it thats a good thing as in a way it tells you "hey, your battery is dropping below the threshold" by doing that versus others ESCs that just let it go by.



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