+1

Speaking of BECs. are there known Servos when using the VTX8 in 4x4 SCT 2S configuration that tax the BEC?

I figured it was robust enough that even savox wouldn't be an issue, but wanted to be sure.

I have been using a savox 2273 up to 7 volts,
Didn't want to bump it more, cause I didn't know what the reciever can handle.
Anyways no problems with that.

Generally we don't have any issue with any servo. There are always exceptions. But I have Savox servos in my 4wd SC and 1/8 and never had an issue.

I've got a cap on mine (sorry, former MMP owner...habit) with a Savox 1258. I'll try running without it a bit this weekend and see how it works out. I really can't imagine it being an issue. To be honest, with the end points set correctly, I didn't need a cap with the MMP either.

Hi there i have an axial wraith i am thinking on putting a viper 13.5t sensored paired with a mamba max pro esc. i would like to know if this is a good mix motor for crawling and some foffing, since i need low end for crawl and some speed because sometimes i do some uphills because i live near the beach also. I am planning on running, 2s lipo, or 4s lipo in case of fofing. Do the stock gearing on the wraith will be fine? 80t spur with 20t pinion, or should i buy a bigger spur like 87t spur and a 16t pinion to get lower temps on the motor and have more low end feeling on crawling? please help, i dont know anything about viper motors i am a castle fan, i am running a 2400kv 4 pole its great for foffing and uphills on 4s lipo but not for crawling .
the motor is this one
Viper RC Vst 13.5T Super Stock Class Sensored Brushless Motor 8VST135001

they also have the 10.5 turns and the 17.5t what do you think its best?
usually people use the tekin gen1 13.5 with 3500kv
Redline Sensored 13.5 TT2252 13.5 201 3,500 12.5mm
Redline Sensored 17.5 TT2251 17.5 131 2,500 12.5mm
the viper 13.5 has only 2400kv so the main question, is shoult i stick with the 13.5 or get the 10.5, and if i get the 13.5 shoult i get a bigger spur and a lower pinion or there is no need at all?.
thats because i am worried with heat issues, where i live average temp is about 30 degrees, but it can rises to 34 easily so when foffing things get hot fast. rsrs
thanks

Cravo - the VST motors are designed for higher RPM racing applications, so I don't know how well they would work for crawling. Also you mentioned 4s, they definitely would not like that much voltage. Also its very hard to compare kv ratings between 2 pole and 4 pole motors. 4 pole will always create more torque, which will add to the differences.

hi, when i run 2s will be for crawling, and when i go foff to go uphill climbings on sand i need the wheel speed but not the low end control.
so the main idea will be 2s lipo 40c (one battery) and for foffing two lipo plugged in series to make the love of foffing screeam uphills but as i said when i am foffing i do not need low end control at all.
so the question will be, will it have a good low end control on 2s? os should i buy the 10.5t.
the similar tekin that most people use is the 13.5t gen1 and it has 3500kv, yours 13.5t has 2400kv so theoretichal should give more low end control and less top speed, so thats why i am asking if it will heat up the motor or not, and if will need to regear and what gearing sugestions, and if it will be better to get the 10,5t or the 13.5, i guess the 17.5 may be only for crawling.
whats your thoughts i am about to pull the trigger and buy one.
please help me out here.
thanks.

2 pole motors from difference companies will be similar. A 13.5 motor from us or another company will have similar performance characteristics. You can't go by "kv" numbers for 2 pole motors because there is no standard, so companies use different voltage settings for measurement. A motor tested at 8v will have a higher kv than one tested at 7v. So if you everyone you run with is using a 13.5, our 13.5 will be similar.

Need help guys.

My setup is as follows:

Tekno SCT410
Hobbywing 3656 4 Pole 4000Kv motor
Hitec 7955TG Servo at 7.4V
Viper VTX8
Promatch IP 7200mah 80C 2S lipo
Futaba 4PL with R204GF-E Antenna less receiver


I took my vehicle out to do some shake down runs in the driveway again after talking with nikos2002 concerning so issues I was having where the Viper VTX8 seemed to do a coast mode at throttle when you made a trigger pull less than what was needed for current speed. It felt disconnected from my vehicle in a way.

here are my settings:

Version A61
Brake Strength 80%
Brake Frequency 2500hz
Brake Curve Linear
Dynamic Brake Off
Throttle PWM Frequency 9600Hz
Throttle Punch 60%
Throttle Curve Linear
Throttle Deadband Narrow
Throttle Power 100%
Run Mode Race Blinky
Motor Direction Normal
Motor Type 4 Pole
Voltage Cutoff 6.4V
BEC 7.4V (I got word from hitec this would be fine)

Any ideas? I am wondering if I need to go down on my BEC and / or my Punch control setting to see if that is the issue?

to me at least playing with Throttle PWM, it seemed to give me more of a powerful feel as I went UP in the value?

Cain, try something other than race blinky, I think it's called race open.

Thanks. what should I use for settings in Race Open that are specific to race open?

Raining like crazy right now so will have to test tomorrow, will write down whatever advice given to have with to try.

Got some news. it was recommended to me to try the Race open mode, and some settings but essentially no boost, etc. Mainly Throttle PWM at 9600hz as a stand out.

I did this and my vehicle felt much better. Barely any of the coast effect at all for a lack of a better term.

I played with a variety of settings going from Full Power of 85% all the way back to 100%, as well as playing with the BEC from 6V to 7.4V. I even turned the Throttle PWM up to 16000hz and it was fine.

I then decided to give BLinky a try again with similar settings.

It seemed to work as well too. A bit more coast effect though, so I am going to use Race Open instead.

Part of me is wondering if the Viper VTX8 combo-ed with the HobbyWing 4000Kv motor could benefit from a touch of drag brake for this coast effect to be completely eliminated?

she's well enough now to go race tomorrow with 1 weird thing that happened.

When running it, I was able to usually put it into "use the ezlink" mode with no issues. However, all of a sudden it woudl just not go into the mode, with one of the lights blinky repeatedly like it was getting a signal. I turned off my Futaba 4PL radio, and was then able to get into the esc via ezlink.

It now basically has to have that happen to do that now, when before, I had no issues going into it with the futaba powered up.

Anyone else exprience this? I am using the 4PL in the SFHSS mode, maybe that could be part of the issue?

Lastly, love the fact the ESC is waterproof, AWESOME!

Sounds like the throttle may have moved off center. You can't shut the thing off or switch to programming mode while it thinks you are supplying it input for either reverse or forward. Try adjusting your throttle trim a couple clicks. I find that mine seems to wander a bit. I think Nikos mentioned that he has one radio in particular that does it worse than others. I just shut the radio off now and it works fine.

Thanks for the info!

Excited for tomorrow. Bringing the spare Viper VTX8 just in case.

Cain - the system needs to be in neutral for the VPort to power off or changes modes - so yes, it the signal its is getting - or the last one it got before the radio shut off was not neutral - it will show on with the lights.

Don't have a lot of experience with that Hobbywing motor, not many have mentioned it to me - so yes, finding what it likes is a little trial and error. The good thing about a system like ours - it gives you lots of room to make a adjustments, try things and get the exact feel you want. The bad thing (if there was one) -- copy that last sentence and insert it here. The way I look at it, if you want to go as fast as everyone else you use what they are using. If you want to make your stuff go faster for you -- you adjust it to your liking, the way you want it to work.

BTW, you can make those same throttle frequency adjustments in Blinky mode - they work the same exact way.