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Old 02-14-2012 | 10:23 AM
  #2146  
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Originally Posted by mccoy
hi folks..need advice here ! already have a rossi 21-4c in my buggy. i just get a new 21-4 btt...but my 21-4c is running like a new! i'm just wondering which should a put in my buggy in which one in my truggy...thx for any advice!! a+
Older version in truck
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Old 02-14-2012 | 07:50 PM
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ok novarossi guys... I want to order a motor asap but am torn between the plus 4 "tuned" for 239.99 on a amain or the plus 4 btta for 284.99 on a main. besides the new head design are there any other benefits of getting the new btta motor? is it worth the extra 45 bucks? thanks
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Old 02-14-2012 | 11:40 PM
  #2148  
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Originally Posted by function>form
ok novarossi guys... I want to order a motor asap but am torn between the plus 4 "tuned" for 239.99 on a amain or the plus 4 btta for 284.99 on a main. besides the new head design are there any other benefits of getting the new btta motor? is it worth the extra 45 bucks? thanks
plus 21-4buggy

Specifications:

Displacement: 3.5cc
Max. power: 2.60 hp
R.P.M (Max. power): 32,000
Practical RPM Range: 6,000-38,000
Crankshaft: Turbo SG
Carburetor Material: Plastic
Carburetor Type: Slide
Carburetor Adjustment: Single
Glow Plug: Standard
Exhaust: Rear
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Old 02-15-2012 | 04:33 AM
  #2149  
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[QUOTE=houston;10330680]plus 21-4buggy

Specifications:

Displacement: 3.5cc
Max. power: 2.60 hp
R.P.M (Max. power): 32,000
Practical RPM Range: 6,000-38,000
Crankshaft: Turbo SG
Carburetor Material: Plastic
Carburetor Type: Slide
Carburetor Adjustment: Single
Glow Plug: Standard
Exhaust: Rear[/QUOT


Thanks, I'm a little confused because in the specs it says standard plug as you posted but in the description on a mains site it says "tuned" (turbo plug)
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Old 02-15-2012 | 04:43 AM
  #2150  
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[QUOTE=function>form;10331139]
Originally Posted by houston
plus 21-4buggy

Specifications:

Displacement: 3.5cc
Max. power: 2.60 hp
R.P.M (Max. power): 32,000
Practical RPM Range: 6,000-38,000
Crankshaft: Turbo SG
Carburetor Material: Plastic
Carburetor Type: Slide
Carburetor Adjustment: Single
Glow Plug: Standard
Exhaust: Rear[/QUOT


Thanks, I'm a little confused because in the specs it says standard plug as you posted but in the description on a mains site it says "tuned" (turbo plug)
you will get the turbo head , I did the same and they sent me a standard head so I hit them up and they forwarded me a turbo head button at no charge, give the 21-4 a go mine is awesome in the truggy unreal runtime
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Old 02-16-2012 | 06:28 AM
  #2151  
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What's the overall best engine for a buggy in the nova line of engines, Ive been reading through the forum and I've seen that the plus-4 is very popular. My question is why? Why not the bonito? How do both compare as far as fuel economy, bottom end and top end?
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Old 02-16-2012 | 06:32 AM
  #2152  
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Originally Posted by arm2storm
What's the overall best engine for a buggy in the nova line of engines, Ive been reading through the forum and I've seen that the plus-4 is very popular. My question is why? Why not the bonito? How do both compare as far as fuel economy, bottom end and top end?
Bonito can be a handful in buggy

Plus 4 very controlable power

Aussies1129- that is kinda weird that it has the description of a plus 21-4buggy which is standard but says turbo in the header description
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Old 02-16-2012 | 06:46 PM
  #2153  
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Originally Posted by arm2storm
What's the overall best engine for a buggy in the nova line of engines, Ive been reading through the forum and I've seen that the plus-4 is very popular. My question is why? Why not the bonito? How do both compare as far as fuel economy, bottom end and top end?
Overall, the +4 and/or the X7 will work perfectly well.

The +4 is dead smooth and applies it's power very well in today's lightweight buggies. Overall, it's hard to argue with.

For *most* tracks, the Bonito doesn't really have a chance to stretch it's legs.

The X7 fills the void between the two and offers a broader range of flexibility, with slightly more midrange torque than the 4, without the "soft" bottom of the Bonito.
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Old 02-16-2012 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by mblgjr
Overall, the +4 and/or the X7 will work perfectly well.

The +4 is dead smooth and applies it's power very well in today's lightweight buggies. Overall, it's hard to argue with.

For *most* tracks, the Bonito doesn't really have a chance to stretch it's legs.

The X7 fills the void between the two and offers a broader range of flexibility, with slightly more midrange torque than the 4, without the "soft" bottom of the Bonito.
Which has better run times? Is the bonitos bottom too soft?


thnx
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Old 02-17-2012 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by arm2storm
Which has better run times? Is the bonitos bottom too soft?


thnx
The +4 is the *easiest* to achieve big runtimes with.

However, the X7 and Bonito can match it with a skilled driver and minimal effort; but if you're ham-fisted (triggered) on the throttle, stick with the 4.

The Bonito isn't *too* soft on a big track. Small tracks, yes I'd say so. But you'll find plenty of other opinions as well.
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Old 02-17-2012 | 01:35 PM
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Yearh, the Bonito was ok for Battle at the Euro 2011

I bet he also used that at the GP in Montpillier
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Old 02-17-2012 | 09:23 PM
  #2157  
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Originally Posted by mblgjr
The +4 is the *easiest* to achieve big runtimes with.

However, the X7 and Bonito can match it with a skilled driver and minimal effort; but if you're ham-fisted (triggered) on the throttle, stick with the 4.

The Bonito isn't *too* soft on a big track. Small tracks, yes I'd say so. But you'll find plenty of other opinions as well.
Thanks...that's exactly what i wanted to know.
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Old 02-17-2012 | 10:35 PM
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Any suggestion on getting the little grub screw that determines the ball linkgae rotation out? The head has rounded out enough I cant get a grab on it with the driver. Usually would use dremmel etc, but a bit on the small side.

Hoping to race tomorrow, but need to get this thing rotated.


The screw on this is what I am talking about.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Ball-Linkage-1
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Old 02-18-2012 | 03:25 AM
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i've been using a +4 that came with my *used* mbx6. despite it being 2nd hand, it has ran flawlessly.
just very recently, i was offered a good deal for another +4. it was too good to pass up. owner says it has got 3L under it, but it looks brand spanking new, if i have to say so myself.

UNFORTUNATELY .. engine had been left in the car in the garden shed for a number of months. when i pulled it apart, i can see what appears to be traces of rust developing (on the crank and inner bearing race), not a lot but noticable enough. what would be the best way to get rid of them?
- change every part that is rusted?
- run it as per normal .. will that "burn" up the rust?
- flood with ARO before running ... ?

any suggestions, pls? thanks in advance.

Last edited by wyl03; 02-18-2012 at 03:26 AM. Reason: can't spell
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Old 02-18-2012 | 08:31 AM
  #2160  
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Quick question: I have an older REX P215RS (basically, an older version of the NR P5XLT afaik..), that was also modded from what I understand for more top end. I have a 9901/short header on it, and it's in my DM-1. The car has a nice top end with this engine and pipe, but lacks explosiveness. I know it's a .21 and so never will have the oomph of a .28. I was just wondering if it would be worth trying a Dynamite 053 on it? Otherwise I'm just thinking this car needs a .28... So anyway, how should a basic NR engine respond going from a 9901/short to an 053? Thanks.
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