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Old 02-07-2012 | 12:20 PM
  #2116  
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Originally Posted by houston
After metal to metal "pinch" friction is gone and a good compression seal is formed then it is safe to lower deck heighth , I dont like to run shimming any lower than .65mm , preferably .70mm , this will require different shims than what is supplied from the factory
So can I remove One of the shims under the head or will I need to buy some? Also what is the advantage of lowering the deck heighth? Thanks
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Old 02-07-2012 | 01:44 PM
  #2117  
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Originally Posted by Scottyh
So can I remove One of the shims under the head or will I need to buy some? Also what is the advantage of lowering the deck heighth? Thanks
you can lower it yes. but i dont know the number. what loweing it does raise the compression in the motor.
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Old 02-07-2012 | 01:51 PM
  #2118  
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Originally Posted by Scottyh
So can I remove One of the shims under the head or will I need to buy some? Also what is the advantage of lowering the deck heighth? Thanks
If you have any of the current generation Novarossi's you'll have to buy a pack of shims or source one accordingly.

Most of the current line comes in with a 0.80mm shim stack, broken down as a 0.30, 0.30, 0.20mm.

So you'll want to remove the 0.20 and replace it with a 0.10 for a total stack of 0.70

That will work well for an engine that is slightly past it's prime, running on 30% nitro, at typical elevation ranges.

As the engine ages, it loses it's compression seal and the heat of compression will be lower as well. You can gain some of the performance back by decreasing the deck height, to increase the compression ratio.

You can also cheat it by running 1-heat range hotter glowplug, but this isn't quite as reliable; but has a similar effect.
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Old 02-07-2012 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by mblgjr
If you have any of the current generation Novarossi's you'll have to buy a pack of shims or source one accordingly.

Most of the current line comes in with a 0.80mm shim stack, broken down as a 0.30, 0.30, 0.20mm.

So you'll want to remove the 0.20 and replace it with a 0.10 for a total stack of 0.70

That will work well for an engine that is slightly past it's prime, running on 30% nitro, at typical elevation ranges.

As the engine ages, it loses it's compression seal and the heat of compression will be lower as well. You can gain some of the performance back by decreasing the deck height, to increase the compression ratio.

You can also cheat it by running 1-heat range hotter glowplug, but this isn't quite as reliable; but has a similar effect.
Ok. So it's not something you do after brake in. Thanks for the help
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Old 02-07-2012 | 02:27 PM
  #2120  
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Not necessarily, but again, it's something that needs to be considered along with your elevation and fuel choice. Not just engine wear.
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Old 02-07-2012 | 03:05 PM
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Ok. The motor is a plus21-4c. What pipe do you recommend? I'm currently running a jp3
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Old 02-07-2012 | 07:12 PM
  #2122  
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Originally Posted by Scottyh
Ok. The motor is a plus21-4c. What pipe do you recommend? I'm currently running a jp3
41021/9901 is a standby that universally works

Run the 2084 for slightly more torque; the 9853 for mega torque.

The 2096 is becoming a favorite for midsize/larger tracks as well.

If you don't want to spring the cash for a Novarossi pipeset (which I suggest you do the pipe, the JP header is actually about 99% identical to the Nova 41021); you can get a budget minded Dynamite 053 (torque) or 086 (top end) set. But the Novas are built stronger and perform better.
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Old 02-07-2012 | 07:19 PM
  #2123  
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The Jammin pipes tend run make the engines run hotter also.
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Old 02-08-2012 | 03:14 AM
  #2124  
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Originally Posted by Chris87
Thanks for the fast answer. So you recommend the Plus4C Team instead of the BTT?
I keep this pipe combo in mind, but I have a brand new Losi RE10. Any experiences with this pipe for novas?
I have ran my Nitrotec all year with my RE10 and I have tested other pipes but really like the RE10. Its similar to the 9901 with a great bottom end and good top. I still get 12 minutes with the RE10 and it's a bottom end pipe! I am going to use it with my new BTTA also! Good Luck!
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Old 02-08-2012 | 05:33 AM
  #2125  
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Originally Posted by mblgjr
41021/9901 is a standby that universally works

Run the 2084 for slightly more torque; the 9853 for mega torque.

The 2096 is becoming a favorite for midsize/larger tracks as well.

If you don't want to spring the cash for a Novarossi pipeset (which I suggest you do the pipe, the JP header is actually about 99% identical to the Nova 41021); you can get a budget minded Dynamite 053 (torque) or 086 (top end) set. But the Novas are built stronger and perform better.
Thanks. The jp3 is alright and has plenty Of bottom end jut seems to lack it the top. Is the 2096 going to help out with te top end? The money's not an issue. Also I live in Texas and most of the tracks we run on are larger tracks.
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Old 02-08-2012 | 05:46 AM
  #2126  
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The Nova Rossi 2096 pipe is an exact copy of an RB 2045, the 2045 is very linear, it depends on what header your using to get the power range your looking for, longer header, gives more bottom, short header, more top end.
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Old 02-08-2012 | 08:27 AM
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So how does the RB 2087 compare to the 2096 and 9901?

Got one with an RB Fire 11 and was thinking of selling it, and running a 9901 I already have.. Under the vague assumption that the 9901 is more of an allrounder.. More after all-out power than smoothness or runtime..
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Old 02-08-2012 | 08:35 AM
  #2128  
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Originally Posted by Herrsavage
So how does the RB 2087 compare to the 2096 and 9901?

Got one with an RB Fire 11 and was thinking of selling it, and running a 9901 I already have.. Under the vague assumption that the 9901 is more of an allrounder.. More after all-out power than smoothness or runtime..
non of those pipes are for making crazy power., they are more race pipes...put a 9886 or 2058 on it and watch the fireworks...or even better look at a ERCM side bleed and really let her scream LOL !.

Last edited by Maximo; 02-08-2012 at 08:46 AM.
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Old 02-08-2012 | 09:04 AM
  #2129  
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Originally Posted by Maximo
non of those pipes are for making crazy power., they are more race pipes...put a 9886 or 2058 on it and watch the fireworks...or even better look at a ERCM side bleed and really let her scream LOL !.
i just looked those thing up, holy smokes, that thing looks crazy.. i would really like to see a review on one of them.

http://www.extremercmods.com/pipes
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Old 02-08-2012 | 09:10 AM
  #2130  
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Originally Posted by t8rtot
i just looked those thing up, holy smokes, that thing looks crazy.. i would really like to see a review on one of them.

http://www.extremercmods.com/pipes


they are a really neat pipe , especially so if your not racing and just looking for all out wide open crazy power.....They are hand built and very sturdy.....We had quite a bit of fun testing one of these out last summer.....

I know I posted this video a 100 times already....but for HerSavage this would be the pipe he should run if all he's looking for is big power...

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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