I think when you say people won't come out and run on anything but big nice tracks, part of it has to do with the fact that they have small fortunes invested in their gear, so they don't want to go just run on any ole' track. If people didn't feel the need to spend those small fortunes, and had much less money tied up in their stuff , then maybe that wouldn't be such an issue. The problem is there's too much pressure to spend BIG in racing, as if everybody has to be like the pros. Racing has become too pseudo-professional, requiring ever bigger amounts of money(OS Speed cough cough..), so over time it's probably inevitable that things will thin out… Make it cheaper and more casual and I think it would be more fun and more viable for more people. NR offering these awesome engines for these awesome prices is a good start…

Just how powerful is that orange Paloma? Compared to say an RB Fire(best, most powerful 21 I've had..), the old Picco P7's, or well any other engines... I'm interested in pure silly power..

Part of the issue as well is that if you live within an hour of two of said big track and they have a race every other weekend, why would you race anywhere else unless you were traveling to a "big race". I know I would race at the best facility I had access to if I could.

I was wrong I guess they do come pre run, Novarossi Direct doesn't offer them yet but Absolute Hobbies has some. I would run at least 2 tanks of whatever fuel you plan on running at idle through it, then put it on the track at no more than 1/4 throttle for a tank, 1/2 throttle next tank, 3/4 throttle tank 6, last tank at full throttle. I have heard pre runs are suppose to be from the box to the track readt, but If it were my engine I would take I slow. You wont hurt anything by taking east for the first 4 to 6 tanks

Why do people idle through entire tanks of fuel in these engines? Do people not realize they stabilize and tune much quicker if they're actually run and driven and thermally stable (heat soaked) first? It's appalling people idle these ringless tapered bore engines more than a minute let alone a whole tank. Wow. I guess it's a good way to keep the sleeve pinching guys busy. Even though it's the piston that actually wears and NOT the liner.

Have you actually meassuered or determed the wear with idle?

I don't know of anyone who feels they have to spend a fortune to be competitive but maybe that's just me. I spent a fortune many times over since I started this almost 20 years ago but that's because I WANTED to, not because I had to.

Similar to bash fishing, I have a 50k boat, big screen electronics, power poles, and a lifted truck to pull it with. Didn't make me win anymore, I just like nice stuff. I've been beat by 20 year old boats with black and white sonar a times just like I've been beat by lower end buggies with good drivers.

Spend what you're comfortable spending, too many people use money as an excuse NOT to do something, hell I've made huge salaries and been broke, neither made me not do what I wanted to do, just changed the scale on which I invested into it. Either way, it's toy car racing and it's fun, not real car racing. I used to do that too, now there you're talking about real money. A buggy with 1800 bucks in it is change compared to that.

I think that won some of you guys talk about car racing or motorcross, and that RC racing is cheap in comparison, you are relativizing things in the wrong direction. 1800 bucks is maybe not much for you, but for most people it is a lot of money to spend on a toy car. And now that it's become the norm it's no wonder that racing participation numbers have gone down.

I can see that point of view as well, just my own personal comparison. A new MX bike every year when I was in my 20’s was the norm and most of my friends can to rc either after injuries or age and did MX or cars back in the day so it’s relatively cheap to all of us in comparison to what we came from.

But also as I stated, I buy the expensive stuff because I can, skill wins races, not money. I’ve been beat frequently by better drivers with older or slower equipment. In full size racing as well, someone always has more money/power but I’ve smoked guys in “faster” cars because I could drive my ass off.

Back to the topic at hand, any of you guys reshimming motors to run 30% on the mito 7 or protek ls5 which is basically a p5xl?

I think so is a p5xlt with the carburetor of the mito.
But I'm not sure.

hi guys looking for a rear bearing for a Mito 4 where can i find one and what will i pay for one? Thanks in advance

Basically no need to shim the motor for 30% if you blow plugs you can use a colder one.

And the main bearing for the Mito 4 is that special bearing with the smaller inner race? It is only provided by Novarossi so find a novarossi dealer. And good luck on the price, lucky they now have a cheaper steel version but still way too expensive.....

Ball Bearings for Nitro R/C Engines - NOVAROSSI WORLD

http://www.novarossidirect.com/BEARINGS_c_108.html

Tko also sells that bearing too