Serpent 710
07-26-2004 | 07:47 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,104
From: Va Va Voom!
Re: Re: pics
packetdreamer, try also clicking on the topics menu there or the topics icon. There's a series of articles of the 710 rebuild. Pleanty of pics.
07-26-2004 | 07:54 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,104
From: Va Va Voom!
Originally posted by packetdreamer
i read the tips and tricks pertaining to steering on the dalton shop page, but if i could get some clarification/assistance, it would be appreicated.
right now i have the servo set so that when it is in nuetral the horn is at 90degs (pointing straight up). the link from the servo horn to the servosaver is the right length so that when the servo is in the nuetrual position, the servosaver is pointing straight toward the front of the car. the links from the servosaver to the knuckles are equal and the car tracks straight.
now my question/problem is this: when i steer to the left (servosaver spins clockwise) the servosaver moves all the way until it hits the plastic part that holds the hingepins (good)
when i steer to the right (servosaver spins counter clockwise) the servosaver moves and just before it is about to hit the part that holds the hingepins on the left side fo the car the movement gets all "mushy". this is because the servo horn is pulling the linkage towards teh back of the car and this causes he plastic ball cup to press against the servo horn. (bad)
is anyone else experiencing this, or know to to resolve it. i thought about tilting the servo horn toward the front while the servo is in nuetral, but i was nto sure if this would effect the rate of steering in one direction over the other.
if you have any suggestions, please, lay 'em down. thanks.
i read the tips and tricks pertaining to steering on the dalton shop page, but if i could get some clarification/assistance, it would be appreicated.
right now i have the servo set so that when it is in nuetral the horn is at 90degs (pointing straight up). the link from the servo horn to the servosaver is the right length so that when the servo is in the nuetrual position, the servosaver is pointing straight toward the front of the car. the links from the servosaver to the knuckles are equal and the car tracks straight.
now my question/problem is this: when i steer to the left (servosaver spins clockwise) the servosaver moves all the way until it hits the plastic part that holds the hingepins (good)
when i steer to the right (servosaver spins counter clockwise) the servosaver moves and just before it is about to hit the part that holds the hingepins on the left side fo the car the movement gets all "mushy". this is because the servo horn is pulling the linkage towards teh back of the car and this causes he plastic ball cup to press against the servo horn. (bad)
is anyone else experiencing this, or know to to resolve it. i thought about tilting the servo horn toward the front while the servo is in nuetral, but i was nto sure if this would effect the rate of steering in one direction over the other.
if you have any suggestions, please, lay 'em down. thanks.
Even if you search using the "InitialD" criteria you'll be going through hundreds of pages ... he's a prolific poster and with nearly 14,000. No offence D, you're generous with knowledge in this thread, we appreciate it!
Anyway, since you're so nice to join 3hobby.com, here's my tip. The original length as given in the manual is for exactly the set-up you mentioned ... servo horn straight up. You then get the problems you've experienced.
I have 2 710's, one with a Futaba 9550 and the other with a Sanwa WRX. For the Futaba I found that you needed to but the turnbuckle of the link so as to allow you to get 39mm tip to tip. For the WRX servo, 40mm tip-to-tip. You then need to set the servo horn slanting towards the front slightly at neutral point.
Doing this I get equal 38 degrees left and right with the Futaba and about 40 degrees left and right with the WRX.
Another good thing to do is to download the 710 FAQ ... look for the link under MarkP's signature in this thread.
07-26-2004 | 07:57 PM
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,945
From: ID
Originally posted by packetdreamer
when i steer to the right (servosaver spins counter clockwise) the servosaver moves and just before it is about to hit the part that holds the hingepins on the left side fo the car the movement gets all "mushy". this is because the servo horn is pulling the linkage towards teh back of the car and this causes he plastic ball cup to press against the servo horn. (bad)
when i steer to the right (servosaver spins counter clockwise) the servosaver moves and just before it is about to hit the part that holds the hingepins on the left side fo the car the movement gets all "mushy". this is because the servo horn is pulling the linkage towards teh back of the car and this causes he plastic ball cup to press against the servo horn. (bad)
07-26-2004 | 08:02 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,104
From: Va Va Voom!
Originally posted by Finken
Hi all
What is supposed to be better with the soft rubber caps and the foam inserts in dampers?
When i installed it, i couldnt move the piston all the way up, it kept coming back? I had to remove some oil to get rebound right, is that the way to do it?
What is the proper rebound? And what good/bad does it do?
Hi all
What is supposed to be better with the soft rubber caps and the foam inserts in dampers?
When i installed it, i couldnt move the piston all the way up, it kept coming back? I had to remove some oil to get rebound right, is that the way to do it?
What is the proper rebound? And what good/bad does it do?
1- you CAN push the rod all the way in,
2- there is no air in the shocks,
3- rebounds a little bit, say 1/3rd or 1/2 way back once you've pushed the piston all the way in.
4- both left and right shocks are of equal length,
5- both left and right shocks rebound back to the same place.
6- drive the car and see!
07-26-2004 | 08:04 PM
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,945
From: ID
Originally posted by packetdreamer
and yet another forum - ah the price i will pay. after looking i have a question, is the ssg carbon fiber stronger? lighter? or just for looks? is it thicker then the standard pieces?
and yet another forum - ah the price i will pay. after looking i have a question, is the ssg carbon fiber stronger? lighter? or just for looks? is it thicker then the standard pieces?
07-26-2004 | 08:11 PM
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,945
From: ID
Originally posted by Finken
Hi all
What is supposed to be better with the soft rubber caps and the foam inserts in dampers?
When i installed it, i couldnt move the piston all the way up, it kept coming back? I had to remove some oil to get rebound right, is that the way to do it?
What is the proper rebound? And what good/bad does it do?
Hi all
What is supposed to be better with the soft rubber caps and the foam inserts in dampers?
When i installed it, i couldnt move the piston all the way up, it kept coming back? I had to remove some oil to get rebound right, is that the way to do it?
What is the proper rebound? And what good/bad does it do?
Best caps and foam to use is PITZ-PS0902 Silicon Soft Diagfram + Sponge Set
07-26-2004 | 09:03 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,840
From: Cebu City, Philippines and Ocala, Florida, USA
Re: Re: running rubber tires
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
From what I saw in the last British Nationals rubber race, the 710 is very good on rubbers.
From what I saw in the last British Nationals rubber race, the 710 is very good on rubbers.
07-26-2004 | 09:29 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,069
From: Nuremberg, Germany
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Flight plan!
Originally posted by InitialD
Paying more than double for JP FX when you can just buy an ordinary 5 port engine for the same performance?
Does not make any sense.
Paying more than double for JP FX when you can just buy an ordinary 5 port engine for the same performance?
Does not make any sense.
when all you can run is 3-port and when a 5-porter asks which 5-port motor you have
