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Old 09-21-2004, 01:01 PM   #15916
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Originally posted by packetdreamer
just finished chasing down my local UPS delivery guy (i call him santa), and now am the proud owner of light clutch housing and a yellow clutch shoe... and dog bones. the rest will be here tomorrow.

the clutch just looks awesome. but i do have some questions. will i have to measure everything up again? or does it shim the same? it only has 4 threads on it... i forget what the original housing had, but both gears will fit on this right.. i am sure it will...

lovely!
I WANNA SEE PICS
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Old 09-21-2004, 01:17 PM   #15917
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Originally posted by SERPENTFREAK69
I WANNA SEE PICS
i gave chase during my lunch break. i will put some pics on 3H once i return home ... though, i must admit, there's not really much to look at
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Old 09-21-2004, 01:35 PM   #15918
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Hello there.
I just bought Serpent 710 last friday and i already assembled it. This is my first RC car (used to fly planes before) and i have couple questions before i take it to the track.
I have Novarossi TSR12S5S Turbo which I want to brake-in. I read a lot about this proces however i found couple different opinions. Should i use WOT method or just idle for first couple tanks?
I was told in the LHS that those tires included in the kit are not for driving. Could You recomend some tires for beginer?

What is the best way to make holes in the car body to align it straight on a frame? I already wasted 1 body due to bad measuments
www.eskadra.com/nad/ - first paint jobs

Regards
Max
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Old 09-21-2004, 01:38 PM   #15919
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Originally posted by Bxclip
does this look correct or is the brake theign surpsoe to be at a 90 degree angle?
Should be fine. Just make sure that the brake engages after only a very short movement on the servo. If not, then remove the brake lever and remount it facing a little further back. Then do the fine tuning with the adjuster at the other end of the servo rod.
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Old 09-21-2004, 01:40 PM   #15920
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Quote:
Originally posted by packetdreamer
just finished chasing down my local UPS delivery guy (i call him santa), and now am the proud owner of light clutch housing and a yellow clutch shoe... and dog bones. the rest will be here tomorrow.

the clutch just looks awesome. but i do have some questions. will i have to measure everything up again? or does it shim the same? it only has 4 threads on it... i forget what the original housing had, but both gears will fit on this right.. i am sure it will...

lovely!
I would check to see if the shims are correct for the new bell housing - especially if you are installing the yellow clutch shoe. Follow Glenn's instructions, a link to which can be found in the FAQ.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 09-21-2004, 01:55 PM   #15921
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Default Re: newbie

Quote:
Originally posted by sn4il
Hello there.
I just bought Serpent 710 last friday and i already assembled it. This is my first RC car (used to fly planes before) and i have couple questions before i take it to the track.
Welcome aboard! You're going to have some fun with the 710!!!

Quote:
I have Novarossi TSR12S5S Turbo which I want to brake-in. I read a lot about this proces however i found couple different opinions. Should i use WOT method or just idle for first couple tanks?
Modern thinking into the process of brake-in is that the WOT is a better method. It is basically a process of heat-cycling. With the idle method, the engine never get properly up to temperature and puts more strain and creates more wear on the components. Check out the method in the FAQ in my signature.
Basically set the high end needle very rich, start the engine and start driving on full throttle - keep an eye on the engine temp, that it is within the range recommended in the FAQ.

Quote:
I was told in the LHS that those tires included in the kit are not for driving. Could You recomend some tires for beginer?
HUH!!! What did he say they were for? Ok, depending upon where you live (i.e. how hot/cold it is), the tyres may not be the best choice. There are lots of different brands out there, but the Serpent tyres are very good - especially the new style rims which I have just tested....they are excellent.
If the weather is pretty warm where you are go for a set of 40 shore and 42 shore tyres - try them both out and see which ones work best with the standard setup.
There is a section in the FAQ which describes a tyre selection process - have a read, as it may give you some useful pointers. But when in doubt, just post a Question here - InitialD will give you a lot of info and he'll be online within the next 5 or 6 hours

Quote:
What is the best way to make holes in the car body to align it straight on a frame? I already wasted 1 body due to bad measuments
www.eskadra.com/nad/ - first paint jobs

Regards
Max
Very nice paint jobs!!! Crashed_1 will certainly be able to help you with body mounting questions.
I always make the holes in my bodyshells before I paint them - then it is pretty easy to align everything quite well.
For an unpainted shell, I start off at the front of the car - I place the shell over the car in the position which I want the shell to be and then mark where the body posts touch the inside of the shell (the bonnet area) - it is quite important that the body post are short, otherwise you won't get the alignment quite right. If you haven't yet mounted a shell and therefore don't know how short to cut the body posts, don't worry - simply remove the body posts altogether and make marks on the body shell by looking though it to the locations where the body posts will be fastened.
Once you done this and cut the holes for the front body posts, you can mount the shell at the front and then repeat a similar process for the rear.

Hope this helps, Mark.
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Old 09-21-2004, 02:01 PM   #15922
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Max, forgot to mention - like it says in the FAQ, from what we can determine, the tyres in the kit are shore 37, so quite soft and grippy. Try them out first though to see how they feel and then compare them to some others.
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Old 09-21-2004, 02:07 PM   #15923
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Default Re: newbie

Quote:
Originally posted by sn4il
Hello there.
I just bought Serpent 710 last friday and i already assembled it. This is my first RC car (used to fly planes before) and i have couple questions before i take it to the track.
I have Novarossi TSR12S5S Turbo which I want to brake-in. I read a lot about this proces however i found couple different opinions. Should i use WOT method or just idle for first couple tanks?
I was told in the LHS that those tires included in the kit are not for driving. Could You recomend some tires for beginer?

What is the best way to make holes in the car body to align it straight on a frame? I already wasted 1 body due to bad measuments
www.eskadra.com/nad/ - first paint jobs

Regards
Max
Welcome welcome welcome!

As nerve wracking as it is, I like the WOT method.If you do it, be sure to cover your Cooling system so it can get up to temp.


TIRES??!!! TIRES??!! see my signature. there are probalby better tires, but these are all i need.


mounting the body straight. good question. first i make doubly and triply sure that my track is balanced - 100m from the center on each side (which is different from just 200mm). this is so i have a better chance and centering the body on the chassis. i rest the body on the posts and line the wheelwells up so that they well come down right over the wheels when i get the body post holes reamed (you may want to read my other post about cutting out wheelwells and stuff in this thread about 3-5 pages back so you can see where i'm coming from). now once i have the wheel wells precisely over the wheels, i look at the front of the car an make sure that the neither wheel sticks out from under the body more than the other. i if have to adjust it, which is always the case, i then go back and make sure that my wheelwells are directly over the wheels. i go back and forth with that until body is perfecly aligned and "floating" on the post.

now here is where it gets ugly. WITHOUT MOVING THE BODY, i use my finger to apply pressure around the front-most post on the left (or right, doens't matter). i put just enough pressure to "scuff" the paint, which does not take much pressure. i remove the body start my hole at the center of hte scuff. but just a small hole from the bottom, and then i ream it to the exact diameter of the post from the top. after that, i put body pin in the upper most bodypin hole in the body post (this stops the body from falling down over the post now that theres a hole there. and i repeat these steps for the other front-most body post, the rear posts, and the front center post. widen the hold SLIGHTLY, to be able to mount the body easily. remove the bodypins from the posts let the body fall over the posts and inspect it. for me the body goes on perfectly 96% of the time... if its is off, you can adjust by reaming an additional .5mm-1.5mm into the diameter of one of the holes. NOTE: IF YOU BODY POSTS ARE BENT, THIS WHOLE THING WILL PROBABLY NOT WORK WELL FOR YOU .

and that's pretty much how i put holes in the body and mount with the best results (for me).


pd.
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Old 09-21-2004, 02:58 PM   #15924
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what is the replacement rate of the yellow clutch... it feels pretty soft (as clutch shoes go).
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Old 09-21-2004, 04:50 PM   #15925
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Basically set the high end needle very rich, start the engine and start driving on full throttle
Hehe. No way. Ive never driven rc car before.
Can I do the brake-in on the starter box?


Thank You all for replies and helpful tips.
Max
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Old 09-21-2004, 04:56 PM   #15926
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Quote:
Originally posted by packetdreamer
with the servo at neutral, my lever is a few degs. toward the back of the car. my brakes engage at 90degs. are those aluminum shock bodies?? when did they come into the picture????
thwe aluminem shock bodies came with car also u said the lever is towards the back of the car? if but mine a few degress toward the back the brakes engange and the wheels lock? is that normal sicne the breakes are still brand new. aslo since i never ha da clisde car cayse ive noticed when i go at full throttle would the brakes engage?
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Last edited by Bxclip; 09-21-2004 at 05:01 PM.
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Old 09-21-2004, 05:05 PM   #15927
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bxclip
if i get that servo i cant get gfail safe right now is that ok?
I would not run that car with out the failsafe .But you should get the best servos you can afford. Where do you run at ?
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Old 09-21-2004, 05:12 PM   #15928
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int he bronx i can afford the 9451 but not the fial safe so what shoudl i do downgrade servos to get failsafe
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Old 09-21-2004, 05:12 PM   #15929
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Thumbs up Re: newbie

Quote:
Originally posted by sn4il
Hello there.
I just bought Serpent 710 last friday and i already assembled it. This is my first RC car (used to fly planes before) and i have couple questions before i take it to the track.
I have Novarossi TSR12S5S Turbo which I want to brake-in. I read a lot about this proces however i found couple different opinions. Should i use WOT method or just idle for first couple tanks?
I was told in the LHS that those tires included in the kit are not for driving. Could You recomend some tires for beginer?

What is the best way to make holes in the car body to align it straight on a frame? I already wasted 1 body due to bad measuments
www.eskadra.com/nad/ - first paint jobs

Regards
Max
welcome to the snake den. You have purchased a great car. Those are some sweet looking bodys . Trinity has those neat littlle metal pointed tips that sit on the body mounts and make dimples in the spot for you to make holes once you line it up . I'm not sure of the part number I purchased them awhile ago. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-21-2004, 05:16 PM   #15930
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bxclip
does this look correct or is the brake theign surpsoe to be at a 90 degree angle?
looks fine to me
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