Serpent 710
Originally posted by InitialD
Like I mentioned, it takes two (old) people to tango.
Like I mentioned, it takes two (old) people to tango.
Originally posted by rcpanama
What will be a good change from this Set Up to move to a smaller track (more technical & higher traction?
Thanks
What will be a good change from this Set Up to move to a smaller track (more technical & higher traction?
Thanks
Then depending on conditions start experimenting with caster and front roll center and sway bars.
Originally posted by Julius
I'd suggest starting out with what you have!
Then depending on conditions start experimenting with caster and front roll center and sway bars.
I'd suggest starting out with what you have!
Then depending on conditions start experimenting with caster and front roll center and sway bars.
I will experiment as you recommend
Originally posted by packetdreamer
I hardly every see pictures of the 710 is there a forum here with such images? If not, does anyone care to post theirs?
I hardly every see pictures of the 710 is there a forum here with such images? If not, does anyone care to post theirs?
There are also some nice pit girls
Originally posted by packetdreamer
and yet another forum - ah the price i will pay. after looking i have a question, is the ssg carbon fiber stronger? lighter? or just for looks? is it thicker then the standard pieces?
and yet another forum - ah the price i will pay. after looking i have a question, is the ssg carbon fiber stronger? lighter? or just for looks? is it thicker then the standard pieces?
i read the tips and tricks pertaining to steering on the dalton shop page, but if i could get some clarification/assistance, it would be appreicated.
right now i have the servo set so that when it is in nuetral the horn is at 90degs (pointing straight up). the link from the servo horn to the servosaver is the right length so that when the servo is in the nuetrual position, the servosaver is pointing straight toward the front of the car. the links from the servosaver to the knuckles are equal and the car tracks straight.
now my question/problem is this: when i steer to the left (servosaver spins clockwise) the servosaver moves all the way until it hits the plastic part that holds the hingepins (good)
when i steer to the right (servosaver spins counter clockwise) the servosaver moves and just before it is about to hit the part that holds the hingepins on the left side fo the car the movement gets all "mushy". this is because the servo horn is pulling the linkage towards teh back of the car and this causes he plastic ball cup to press against the servo horn. (bad)
is anyone else experiencing this, or know to to resolve it. i thought about tilting the servo horn toward the front while the servo is in nuetral, but i was nto sure if this would effect the rate of steering in one direction over the other.
if you have any suggestions, please, lay 'em down. thanks.
right now i have the servo set so that when it is in nuetral the horn is at 90degs (pointing straight up). the link from the servo horn to the servosaver is the right length so that when the servo is in the nuetrual position, the servosaver is pointing straight toward the front of the car. the links from the servosaver to the knuckles are equal and the car tracks straight.
now my question/problem is this: when i steer to the left (servosaver spins clockwise) the servosaver moves all the way until it hits the plastic part that holds the hingepins (good)
when i steer to the right (servosaver spins counter clockwise) the servosaver moves and just before it is about to hit the part that holds the hingepins on the left side fo the car the movement gets all "mushy". this is because the servo horn is pulling the linkage towards teh back of the car and this causes he plastic ball cup to press against the servo horn. (bad)
is anyone else experiencing this, or know to to resolve it. i thought about tilting the servo horn toward the front while the servo is in nuetral, but i was nto sure if this would effect the rate of steering in one direction over the other.
if you have any suggestions, please, lay 'em down. thanks.
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 104
From: Norway
Hi all 
What is supposed to be better with the soft rubber caps and the foam inserts in dampers?
When i installed it, i couldnt move the piston all the way up, it kept coming back? I had to remove some oil to get rebound right, is that the way to do it?
What is the proper rebound? And what good/bad does it do?

What is supposed to be better with the soft rubber caps and the foam inserts in dampers?
When i installed it, i couldnt move the piston all the way up, it kept coming back? I had to remove some oil to get rebound right, is that the way to do it?
What is the proper rebound? And what good/bad does it do?
Last edited by Finken; 07-26-2004 at 02:13 PM.
Originally posted by InitialD
Paying more than double for JP FX when you can just buy an ordinary 5 port engine for the same performance?
Does not make any sense.
Paying more than double for JP FX when you can just buy an ordinary 5 port engine for the same performance?
Does not make any sense.
Originally posted by InitialD
JP website mentioned that the engine with the new 3 port sleeve (IDM style type porting) is about the same performance of their 5 port engines.
Ah, with a JP FX 3 port, why should you need to be relegated to join the rubber tire class? I'm sure the 3 port kicks in every bit of butt in the outlaw 5 port engine class.
JP website mentioned that the engine with the new 3 port sleeve (IDM style type porting) is about the same performance of their 5 port engines.
Ah, with a JP FX 3 port, why should you need to be relegated to join the rubber tire class? I'm sure the 3 port kicks in every bit of butt in the outlaw 5 port engine class.
There's a couple of guys with JP-FX, one made it to the A-Finals at last weekend's Rubber Nationals ... his car definitely smokin'



