Serpent 710
Originally posted by impalabob64
the serpent is called the snake charmer right in makes u want to learn more.the g4 was an is i think might be close to being up there with the 710 but it has things that has to be done.to reach the snake charmer thats the name i gave it at my club track ,mugens cant touch it ,.kyosho want to beat it.s r40 cant even taste it but they feel the strike of the reptile dont they can i get a what,what
the serpent is called the snake charmer right in makes u want to learn more.the g4 was an is i think might be close to being up there with the 710 but it has things that has to be done.to reach the snake charmer thats the name i gave it at my club track ,mugens cant touch it ,.kyosho want to beat it.s r40 cant even taste it but they feel the strike of the reptile dont they can i get a what,what
Originally posted by InitialD
How could Onkel Sow resist a JP engine?
How could Onkel Sow resist a JP engine?
Originally posted by InitialD
Strange that Michael, Julius, Rene and the rest of Team Serpent use a LOT of rear sway bar (set to hard position) to dial their car. Yeah, this combined WITHOUT the front sway bar !
Strange that Michael, Julius, Rene and the rest of Team Serpent use a LOT of rear sway bar (set to hard position) to dial their car. Yeah, this combined WITHOUT the front sway bar !
Originally posted by ttso
If car is fully stop, everything is good. Throttle on will make the clutch engage correctly, good punch. But when I leaving corner and put the throttle back on from free-roll, it won't engage. And in straight line, if I release the throttle in middle and put it back on right away. I can heard my engine running into higer RPM, but car speed gradually reduced, just like free-roll. The only way to make it re-engage is keep click on thrttole until lucky happen.
Nope, 2nd speed didn't kick in.
Really a strange problem. It feels like the spring push the shoe back in high RPM, makes it dis-engage even the RPM still remain the same high.
If car is fully stop, everything is good. Throttle on will make the clutch engage correctly, good punch. But when I leaving corner and put the throttle back on from free-roll, it won't engage. And in straight line, if I release the throttle in middle and put it back on right away. I can heard my engine running into higer RPM, but car speed gradually reduced, just like free-roll. The only way to make it re-engage is keep click on thrttole until lucky happen.
Nope, 2nd speed didn't kick in.
Really a strange problem. It feels like the spring push the shoe back in high RPM, makes it dis-engage even the RPM still remain the same high.
Hi I will like to get some advice in reference to my Set Up. I has been raising in a large Parking loot Track with the 710, the set up I have works very good in that Track (med low traction) , I will show the set up.
We will start as of Sunday running in an other Track which is smaller (High Traction), one Fast Sweeper coming in the straight one slow one coming out, four hair pings and one chicane.
This track is very small compare to the other, we change track during our 14 raising in the year, depending on the sponsor.
The Set Up I have is the following:
Engine Nova Rossi NSR12 S3, with two ceramic Boca Bearing, Nova Mega crankshaft 11.5 Outlaw MS for Novarossi, yellow shoes, with 1.8 spring.
Fuel 20% Nitro 12% oil with Nitro Blast Additive.
Glowplug C6TF Novarossi
Pipe Nova Mega 5P out low
Tires Ellegi 40 front & rear
Shocks Red front & rear, 35 / 3 holes front, 40 / 3 holes rear
Shock Mounting front 2 & rear 1 (Default)
Transmition Spur 61 / 57 Pinion 16 / 21
Drive Train Rear Ball Diff Med hard / Front One way
Roll Center Rear UTI / LT Front 0mm under
Down Stop Front 0mm Rear 7mm
Camber Front 1.5 Left & Right Rear 3.0 Left & Right
Toe Front 1 out rear 2 in
Caster 2mm front
Ride Height Front 6mm Rear 7mm
Body Alpha Prot.
Car Weight without Body & Fuel (includes transponder & temperature gauge) 1665g
With Body 1785g
Bearing Complete Boca Bearings set and Ceramic bearing in rear Ball Diff.
The car has the three latest Aluminum option from Serpent, Hudy Dog Bones front & Rear, Hudy Drive shafts front & Rear, Ventilated Disk Brake, Hudy drive shaft in One-way.
What will be a good change from this Set Up to move to a smaller track (more technical & higher traction?
Thanks
We will start as of Sunday running in an other Track which is smaller (High Traction), one Fast Sweeper coming in the straight one slow one coming out, four hair pings and one chicane.
This track is very small compare to the other, we change track during our 14 raising in the year, depending on the sponsor.
The Set Up I have is the following:
Engine Nova Rossi NSR12 S3, with two ceramic Boca Bearing, Nova Mega crankshaft 11.5 Outlaw MS for Novarossi, yellow shoes, with 1.8 spring.
Fuel 20% Nitro 12% oil with Nitro Blast Additive.
Glowplug C6TF Novarossi
Pipe Nova Mega 5P out low
Tires Ellegi 40 front & rear
Shocks Red front & rear, 35 / 3 holes front, 40 / 3 holes rear
Shock Mounting front 2 & rear 1 (Default)
Transmition Spur 61 / 57 Pinion 16 / 21
Drive Train Rear Ball Diff Med hard / Front One way
Roll Center Rear UTI / LT Front 0mm under
Down Stop Front 0mm Rear 7mm
Camber Front 1.5 Left & Right Rear 3.0 Left & Right
Toe Front 1 out rear 2 in
Caster 2mm front
Ride Height Front 6mm Rear 7mm
Body Alpha Prot.
Car Weight without Body & Fuel (includes transponder & temperature gauge) 1665g
With Body 1785g
Bearing Complete Boca Bearings set and Ceramic bearing in rear Ball Diff.
The car has the three latest Aluminum option from Serpent, Hudy Dog Bones front & Rear, Hudy Drive shafts front & Rear, Ventilated Disk Brake, Hudy drive shaft in One-way.
What will be a good change from this Set Up to move to a smaller track (more technical & higher traction?
Thanks
Originally posted by Julius
99% says it's the one way in the 1st gear slipping. Clean it with some brake cleaner and re-lube with one-way oil. It is not possible to check a one way just by feeling. The forces on it are completely different when the car is running.
99% says it's the one way in the 1st gear slipping. Clean it with some brake cleaner and re-lube with one-way oil. It is not possible to check a one way just by feeling. The forces on it are completely different when the car is running.
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
What do you expect D?
What do you expect D?
Does not make any sense.
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
I can't but the three port still puts me off a bit unless I decide to enter the rubber races. But painful memories of collecting boxes of inserts, wheels and tyres just wore me down.
I can't but the three port still puts me off a bit unless I decide to enter the rubber races. But painful memories of collecting boxes of inserts, wheels and tyres just wore me down.
Ah, with a JP FX 3 port, why should you need to be relegated to join the rubber tire class? I'm sure the 3 port kicks in every bit of butt in the outlaw 5 port engine class.
Originally posted by InitialD
Yeah, that was what I was thinking as well. Anyway, I think you should not use any type of brake cleaner. The ones I've seen are very caustic on plastics. Using the wrong one could melt and deform the plastic cage where the oneway bearing needles roll.
Yeah, that was what I was thinking as well. Anyway, I think you should not use any type of brake cleaner. The ones I've seen are very caustic on plastics. Using the wrong one could melt and deform the plastic cage where the oneway bearing needles roll.
That why I say it feels like spring push the shoe back in.
Anyway, I gonna try the rebuilded clutch first this weekend, than new spring, than new flyweight, than.... I don't know...




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