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Old 07-25-2004, 11:07 AM   #14356
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Quote:
Originally posted by PSI Racing
Do you know who has titanium screws that will be a good replacement for the under chassis screws?
I believe you can use some M3 countersunk hex screws (not self tapping ones) on the area near the mid bearing block and the receiver pack mounting parts.
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Old 07-25-2004, 11:08 AM   #14357
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Default hey d

the serpent is called the snake charmer right in makes u want to learn more.the g4 was an is i think might be close to being up there with the 710 but it has things that has to be done.to reach the snake charmer thats the name i gave it at my club track ,mugens cant touch it ,.kyosho want to beat it.s r40 cant even taste it but they feel the strike of the reptile dont they can i get a what,what
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Old 07-25-2004, 11:09 AM   #14358
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Maybe I ought to get a JP-FX too ... hmmm


How could Onkel Sow resist a JP engine?
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Old 07-25-2004, 11:12 AM   #14359
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Originally posted by Sow&Steady
On the other hand if I lose, I confiscate the tape and if Mark loses he confiscates the tape so what's the point?
Ah you old guys with their childish antics again...
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Old 07-25-2004, 11:14 AM   #14360
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Look, I'll pay good money to keep that tape out of the internet - you know that in RC, money is no object!
Oh no... Money politics also in RC? What has this world come into?
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Old 07-25-2004, 11:14 AM   #14361
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Default Re: hey d

Quote:
Originally posted by impalabob64
the serpent is called the snake charmer right in makes u want to learn more.the g4 was an is i think might be close to being up there with the 710 but it has things that has to be done.to reach the snake charmer thats the name i gave it at my club track ,mugens cant touch it ,.kyosho want to beat it.s r40 cant even taste it but they feel the strike of the reptile dont they can i get a what,what
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Old 07-25-2004, 11:15 AM   #14362
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
But if by some miracle, I beat him.....
Seek the RING.
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Old 07-25-2004, 11:16 AM   #14363
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Quote:
Originally posted by PSI Racing
I see he's terrorizing the electric threads right now.
I shouldn't have said anything.
He'll probably be back tomorrow.
He already did.
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Old 07-25-2004, 11:17 AM   #14364
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Quote:
Originally posted by PSI Racing
Which roll bars would you guys recommend?


or
It's a tough choice I guess. The 710 is a very light car. Wire type would work better in my opinion. But then, the blade adjustability option plus the cool looking factor is just too good to give up.

I believe somebody mentioned that he has a car that actually had a blade type rear sway bar (possibly Serpent prototype) on the 710. Can't remember who it was. I believe he was from Florida.
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Old 07-25-2004, 11:19 AM   #14365
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
To be honest, I don't even think you need the stock ones for most tracks.
Strange that Michael, Julius, Rene and the rest of Team Serpent use a LOT of rear sway bar (set to hard position) to dial their car. Yeah, this combined WITHOUT the front sway bar !
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Old 07-25-2004, 11:19 AM   #14366
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Quote:
Originally posted by Proficar403
The new REX was pretty thirsty during its debut.
Most of the time, the plug choice affects fuel consumption. What are you currently using? Hot plugs consume more fuel than colder plugs.
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Old 07-25-2004, 11:20 AM   #14367
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
My lap time is about 1 second slower than his What could be the problem?
Skills?

Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
The only thing I didnt ask him was what oil and shock holes he used. I was thinking maybe it could be the downstops as well. Any help would be appreciated.
Ah ! If you "copied" his setup, then you did not copy it too well I presume.

Yeah, shock settings are one of the most important things that determine a car's performance on track besides the pilot.
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Old 07-25-2004, 11:21 AM   #14368
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Default Re: Clutch.... help...

Quote:
Originally posted by ttso
The clutch gap doesn't seem effect the problem at all. While I losing the spring, the gap become smaller (is this correct??? Im kind confused), but doesn't change the strange behavior.
When you loosen the clutch nut, it should not affect the clutch gap. Clutch gap is only affected by the amount of shims you put at the front of the thrust bearing or the shims behind the flywheel / brass collet. It could be that the spring pre adjusting nut is too loose and that is rubbing the clutch bell. Check again.

Quote:
Originally posted by ttso
I guess I might need to try a new flyweight?
Yeah maybe. But try the yellow Centax clutch shoe first. It should be good with the stock flyweight mounting.
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Old 07-25-2004, 11:29 AM   #14369
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Default Re: Re: Clutch.... help...

Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
ttso, you mean acceleration at mid-range is poor? You need to clarify is this during 2nd gear or still in first gear?

Also, mid-range acceleration, given all else is ok, depends highly on engine tune and capability. Some engines have very poor power band ... tapers right right off after about mid-rpm.
If car is fully stop, everything is good. Throttle on will make the clutch engage correctly, good punch. But when I leaving corner and put the throttle back on from free-roll, it won't engage. And in straight line, if I release the throttle in middle and put it back on right away. I can heard my engine running into higer RPM, but car speed gradually reduced, just like free-roll. The only way to make it re-engage is keep click on thrttole until lucky happen.

Nope, 2nd speed didn't kick in.

Really a strange problem. It feels like the spring push the shoe back in high RPM, makes it dis-engage even the RPM still remain the same high.
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Old 07-25-2004, 11:34 AM   #14370
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Default Re: Re: Re: Clutch.... help...

Quote:
Originally posted by ttso
The only way to make it re-engage is keep click on thrttole until lucky happen.
Are you sure it's not your oneway bearing in the 2 speed slipping? Perhaps that is faulty.

Quote:
Originally posted by ttso
Really a strange problem. It feels like the spring push the shoe back in high RPM, makes it dis-engage even the RPM still remain the same high.
If the oneway bearing is OK, it could be the problem with something in the Centax clutch spring that is binding.
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