I believe you can use some M3 countersunk hex screws (not self tapping ones) on the area near the mid bearing block and the receiver pack mounting parts.

the serpent is called the snake charmer right in makes u want to learn more.the g4 was an is i think might be close to being up there with the 710 but it has things that has to be done.to reach the snake charmer thats the name i gave it at my club track ,mugens cant touch it ,.kyosho want to beat it.s r40 cant even taste it but they feel the strike of the reptile dont they can i get a what,what

How could Onkel Sow resist a JP engine?

Ah you old guys with their childish antics again...

Oh no... Money politics also in RC? What has this world come into?

Seek the RING.

He already did.

It's a tough choice I guess. The 710 is a very light car. Wire type would work better in my opinion. But then, the blade adjustability option plus the cool looking factor is just too good to give up.

I believe somebody mentioned that he has a car that actually had a blade type rear sway bar (possibly Serpent prototype) on the 710. Can't remember who it was. I believe he was from Florida.

Strange that Michael, Julius, Rene and the rest of Team Serpent use a LOT of rear sway bar (set to hard position) to dial their car. Yeah, this combined WITHOUT the front sway bar !

Most of the time, the plug choice affects fuel consumption. What are you currently using? Hot plugs consume more fuel than colder plugs.

Skills?

Ah ! If you "copied" his setup, then you did not copy it too well I presume.

Yeah, shock settings are one of the most important things that determine a car's performance on track besides the pilot.

When you loosen the clutch nut, it should not affect the clutch gap. Clutch gap is only affected by the amount of shims you put at the front of the thrust bearing or the shims behind the flywheel / brass collet. It could be that the spring pre adjusting nut is too loose and that is rubbing the clutch bell. Check again.

Yeah maybe. But try the yellow Centax clutch shoe first. It should be good with the stock flyweight mounting.

If car is fully stop, everything is good. Throttle on will make the clutch engage correctly, good punch. But when I leaving corner and put the throttle back on from free-roll, it won't engage. And in straight line, if I release the throttle in middle and put it back on right away. I can heard my engine running into higer RPM, but car speed gradually reduced, just like free-roll. The only way to make it re-engage is keep click on thrttole until lucky happen.

Nope, 2nd speed didn't kick in.

Really a strange problem. It feels like the spring push the shoe back in high RPM, makes it dis-engage even the RPM still remain the same high.

Are you sure it's not your oneway bearing in the 2 speed slipping? Perhaps that is faulty.

If the oneway bearing is OK, it could be the problem with something in the Centax clutch spring that is binding.