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Old 07-06-2004, 05:57 AM   #13606
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C-spec, another.

If you want to see any others I'll take some more when I've cleaned it from the weekend.
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Old 07-06-2004, 06:04 AM   #13607
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Quote:
Originally posted by Craig1
C-spec, another.

If you want to see any others I'll take some more when I've cleaned it from the weekend.
Yes please Some nice close-ups if it is possible, so I can see in detail what you've done.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 07-06-2004, 06:12 AM   #13608
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Quote:
Originally posted by PSI Racing
Where can you buy those 850 mAh batteries?

In EBAY


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...825890667&rd=1
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Old 07-06-2004, 06:35 AM   #13609
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This is about the only close up I've got at present.
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Old 07-06-2004, 06:37 AM   #13610
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Quote:
Originally posted by Craig1
This is about the only close up I've got at present.
I'm sure Sow&Steady would like it if you wrote an article about your C-Spec for his website www.3hobby.com

I would certainly like to read more about your mods

Thanks for the pics, Mark.
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Old 07-06-2004, 08:33 AM   #13611
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Quote:
Originally posted by PSI Racing
Where can you buy those 850 mAh batteries?
The 850mah I use for the receiver pack are made up using GP cells. I dont think you can buy an 850 pack pre-made (not seen one anyway).
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Old 07-06-2004, 12:59 PM   #13612
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Quote:
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
The 850mah I use for the receiver pack are made up using GP cells. I dont think you can buy an 850 pack pre-made (not seen one anyway).

That is correct the 850 pack I am using I built my self from 850 GP and SANYO which I bought in EBAY
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Old 07-06-2004, 01:33 PM   #13613
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Default Silicone tube for dogbones

Hi racers

I'm rebuilding my snake after a Sundays race.
I was third and it was my first race with 1/10 nitro car.
Here are some pictures

http://mdm.zrcalo.si/forum/viewtopic...er=asc&start=0

Back to the question.
I wont to know about the silicone tubes inserted beetwen the dogbones.
How much should I put it in.
Should I put it yust in front or to rear d.bones to?

I now there was a thread about this on this forum but I yust cant find it.
Maybe someone can post a link.

Thanks
Cya
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Old 07-06-2004, 04:27 PM   #13614
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As said before, i have a oversteer on corner exit problem. I want to change springs as a last ting. And i wonder, will standing the front shocks more vertical, pos. 3-4 give the car less"bite" in the turn, and cure my problem?? Changing to harder shore is another sulution right? and less caster?
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Old 07-06-2004, 07:43 PM   #13615
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Default Front Droop

Hello to all,

I just joined the crowd here with the 710. I understand from local drivers that its front droop will change at impact because the upper bumper holds the droop screws. What are your ways to recitify this problem? I've seen 3racing's graphite upper bumper but that's gonna crack easily.

Thanks for your help.
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Old 07-06-2004, 08:31 PM   #13616
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Assembly Questions

I am installing the new 802235 Spacers for Steering Blocks and Rear Uprights and I have a few questions.

1. I have heard that some people have had problems with the spacers causing the bearings to spin in the uprights. Is this so and what caused the problems?
2. When you install the spacers they sit between the inner race of the two ball bearings, do you set the endplay for the wheel axle snug (no lateral play) or a very small amount of endplay when you position/tighten the wheel-adaptor hex?


Differentials?

1. When you assemble the front and rear differentials what do you use to lube the ball bearing #1326, Serpent Bearing oil or Mugen Super Grease?
2. Do you lube the friction surface between the pulley and diff axle and what do you use?
3. When I was putting the front diff together I noticed that it did not use the o-ring #1065 and Spacer #801436 to hold the friction collar to the pulley. My front diff came with a outside snap ring to hold the friction collar on. What is the preferred method for the front and rear differentials?
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Old 07-06-2004, 08:44 PM   #13617
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Default Re: Front Droop

Quote:
Originally posted by TitaniumR
I've seen 3racing's graphite upper bumper but that's gonna crack easily.
Nope. The graphite bumper has not buckled or cracked on me yet ! <touch wood> Of course you cannot expect miracles if you crash head on to the wall. For what it's worth, mine is the SSG version. I actually wanted the matching normal graphite but it was not available when I bought it. You may want to seal the graphite edges with CA glue.

I personally think that it's the best thing 3Racing did.

Anyway, welcome on board.

p/s: Be careful of the droop screws when you screw into the aluminum piece. You may want to put some loctite thread lock (blue) on it so that it does not come out. In fact, be careful in all the 3Racing aluminum pieces when you thread in the screw. Easily stripped.
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Old 07-06-2004, 08:48 PM   #13618
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Quote:
Originally posted by Finken
And i wonder, will standing the front shocks more vertical, pos. 3-4 give the car less"bite" in the turn, and cure my problem??
Perhaps...

Quote:
Originally posted by Finken
Changing to harder shore is another sulution right? and less caster?
Harder shores can solve the problem quickly. Less caster (more clips to the rear of the front upper arm) reduces on power steering. Try more toe in in the rear to reduce on power steering and stabilise the rear also.
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Old 07-06-2004, 08:51 PM   #13619
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Quote:
Originally posted by Craig1
If you want to see any others I'll take some more when I've cleaned it from the weekend.
Craig1, nice ! More please.

Perhaps you may want to approach markp27 regarding his patented Photoshop filter to clear the dirt off the car before posting the pics !
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Old 07-06-2004, 08:59 PM   #13620
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Default Re: Assembly Questions

Quote:
Originally posted by wolfejohne
I am installing the new 802235 Spacers for Steering Blocks and Rear Uprights and I have a few questions.
I have no experience on this one as I have not gotten it to test it out. Perhaps Pyramid / Goldfinger can help you with this.

Quote:
Originally posted by wolfejohne
1. When you assemble the front and rear differentials what do you use to lube the ball bearing #1326, Serpent Bearing oil or Mugen Super Grease?
Mugen Super Grease ! Serpent bearing oil is too light. You need a grease that is sticky and will still stick after a long while.

Quote:
Originally posted by wolfejohne
2. Do you lube the friction surface between the pulley and diff axle and what do you use?
I have not lubed that part. I don't think that part rubs...

I only lube the balls. Put some grease on a tissue paper and rub the balls evenly with the grease so that the balls are coated with a thin and even layer.

Quote:
Originally posted by wolfejohne
3. When I was putting the front diff together I noticed that it did not use the o-ring #1065 and Spacer #801436 to hold the friction collar to the pulley. My front diff came with a outside snap ring to hold the friction collar on. What is the preferred method for the front and rear differentials?
Well, mine came like that too. But I think I prefer the method of the rear diff. Somehow the snap ring in the front diff does not fully move the friction collar snugly towards the diff pulley. There is still some play there. Anyway, I still left mine like that and no problems.
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