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Old 07-07-2004, 01:55 PM   #13636
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Quote:
Originally posted by Zizu
You either have one hell of a tough car or the one that I got is dodgy.But I don't believe that mine's dodgy as I got it from a reliable serpent dealer.Yup everything is built spot on and for your info this is my 5th car.Others are MTX3,RREvo,2 G4s and this.Unless serpent comes up with universals than I think some of these problems could be solved.
Serpent is supposed to make universals for the 710.
They are going to be releasing the universals for the 950R soon.
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Old 07-07-2004, 03:35 PM   #13637
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Talking Re: Assembly Questions

Thanks InitialD and Pyramid for your feed back

I take from your feed back that you would not use the spacers in the uprighs?

Thanks again for all the info.
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Old 07-07-2004, 05:03 PM   #13638
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Quote:
Originally posted by PSI Racing
Serpent is supposed to make universals for the 710.
They are going to be releasing the universals for the 950R soon.
Yup but then again these things are supposed to be available months couple of months back.3 racing makes one but it's crap.
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Old 07-07-2004, 05:09 PM   #13639
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Quote:
Originally posted by Zizu
Yup but then again these things are supposed to be available months couple of months back.3 racing makes one but it's crap.
What front track width are you running?
Did you try the fuel tubing in the Driveshaft adaptor (802248)?
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Old 07-07-2004, 05:42 PM   #13640
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Quote:
Originally posted by PSI Racing
What front track width are you running?
Did you try the fuel tubing in the Driveshaft adaptor (802248)?
I gone through from 200 to 197 with oneway up front and even gone down to 196 with front diff.Yup tried fuel tubing,spring and even the bearing trick.
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Old 07-07-2004, 05:52 PM   #13641
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Quote:
Originally posted by Zizu
I gone through from 200 to 197 with oneway up front and even gone down to 196 with front diff.Yup tried fuel tubing,spring and even the bearing trick.
Sorry the car didn't work out for you.
I had a similar problem with my Impulse.
It ended up being a worn out wheel axle.
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Old 07-07-2004, 08:43 PM   #13642
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Quote:
Originally posted by wolfejohne
I take from your feed back that you would not use the spacers in the uprighs?
What would you expect me to say? We are Indonesia Serpent distributor. Can not say No, can`t I (j/k). S710 bearings all can stay running good at least for 6 hours (from our testing) but unfortunately the spacer did not. In my case, I prefer to not run because I do not want to clean the spacers every 2 hours of use since the bearing maitanance could be done on every 6 hours of use. So more time to play and sell for me

Why didn`t I have problems with bones pops out even with 808220 at 199mm while others have? All I could think of maybe because of previous hard crash, A arms bents, then lead to loosing dogbone on another hard crash..

D.. can you give other scenarios? not if using front diff, one way still ok lah..
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Old 07-07-2004, 11:35 PM   #13643
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Quote:
Originally posted by Zizu
I'll try not to but I'm no Surikarn
You sure got me fooled on this one.
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Old 07-07-2004, 11:37 PM   #13644
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Quote:
Originally posted by Zizu
Yup but then again these things are supposed to be available months couple of months back.3 racing makes one but it's crap.
Ummm, has TM come out with a workable steering solution for G4 yet?
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Old 07-07-2004, 11:38 PM   #13645
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
D.. can you give other scenarios? not if using front diff, one way still ok lah..
I guess it is a little difficult for Pyramid to give advise from a distributor and from an end user point of view !

Anyway, I seem to think that you will break the dogbones more often when the wheel axle (801215 or 801214) groove slots catches the dogbone shaft. More so when you hit something at the same time your steering is in full lock position and at the same time you're on throttle !

That will either dislodge the dogbone out of the cups (you loose the dogbones) or just snap them ! I notice that they all snap at the end where it's nearest to the wheel axles.

I guess that was the reason why Julius preferred to put the fuel tubing spacers in the oneway drive adaptors or the adaptors of the front ball diff and not at the wheel axles side as most people would normally do. This would ensure that the dogbones do not sit deep into the wheel axle and hence less chance of the wheel axle groove slots catching the dogbone shafts on a full lock turn.

Solution? Set your steering travel so that it does NOT go beyond the physical limitations of the steering EPA. If you're not getting enough steering or turn radius on your track, you just need to set the car properly. Put the spacers / fuel tubings as per what Julius has recommended (not on the wheel axle side but on the oneway drive adaptors side and lastly, don't hit anything !
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Old 07-08-2004, 01:41 AM   #13646
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
That will either dislodge the dogbone out of the cups (you loose the dogbones) or just snap them ! I notice that they all snap at the end where it's nearest to the wheel axles.

I guess that was the reason why Julius preferred to put the fuel tubing spacers in the oneway drive adaptors or the adaptors of the front ball diff and not at the wheel axles side as most people would normally do. This would ensure that the dogbones do not sit deep into the wheel axle and hence less chance of the wheel axle groove slots catching the dogbone shafts on a full lock turn.

Solution? Set your steering travel so that it does NOT go beyond the physical limitations of the steering EPA. If you're not getting enough steering or turn radius on your track, you just need to set the car properly. Put the spacers / fuel tubings as per what Julius has recommended (not on the wheel axle side but on the oneway drive adaptors side and lastly, don't hit anything !
The problem with fuel tubing on the inside is that the dogbone get's pushed in the wheelaxle. At large steering throws this can lead to the dogbone contacting the axle. It then takes only a board jumping in front of your car to break the dogbone. That is why I use the fuel tubing on the wheelaxle.
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Old 07-08-2004, 02:29 AM   #13647
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Ummm, has TM come out with a workable steering solution for G4 yet?

hope Mr. Giant don`t see this.. he is as die hard as you D.. just different brand

By the way.. G4 1/2 is on the way...
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Old 07-08-2004, 02:31 AM   #13648
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Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
The problem with fuel tubing on the inside is that the dogbone get's pushed in the wheelaxle. At large steering throws this can lead to the dogbone contacting the axle. It then takes only a board jumping in front of your car to break the dogbone. That is why I use the fuel tubing on the wheelaxle.
Hi Julius,
We have some thought from our last testing. I did try your setup w/front diff, constant line is in on the top of my comments.
Than I try Mark Green setup (GP Halifax TC), fast! yet smooth enough in low speed steering.
Then we realize, that Mark Green setup is 90% stock!!
Even Pyramid said this is unbelievable, this car were using "Running-Change Geometry" Coz, when 1st testing with stock setup the car is far from what we feel now.
There is only 1 difference, rear DIFFERENTIAL !!
When it perfect, the setup is very wide with each unique characteristic.

So, wouldn't be nice if the kit comes with pre-built rear diff ?
If that sounds impossible (I understand Hollands labor cost) is this the perfect time to release bevel diff as a standard in kit ?
We all know it is easier to build bevel diff (no gritty feeling)

Just my 2 rupiah (getting better know)
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Old 07-08-2004, 02:37 AM   #13649
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
hope Mr. Giant don`t see this.. he is as die hard as you D.. just different brand


Mr. Giant will come back to say "What steering problems?"
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Old 07-08-2004, 02:37 AM   #13650
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SER-802136 and SER-802241

Those option parts should be available by early next week on your LHS!
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