Serpent 710
Re: Silicone tube for dogbones
Originally posted by lagnaf
I'm rebuilding my snake after a Sundays race.
I was third and it was my first race with 1/10 nitro car.
Here are some pictures
I'm rebuilding my snake after a Sundays race.
I was third and it was my first race with 1/10 nitro car.
Here are some pictures
Originally posted by lagnaf
I wont to know about the silicone tubes inserted beetwen the dogbones.
How much should I put it in.
Should I put it yust in front or to rear d.bones to?
I wont to know about the silicone tubes inserted beetwen the dogbones.
How much should I put it in.
Should I put it yust in front or to rear d.bones to?
Re: Re: Front Droop
Originally posted by InitialD
Nope. The graphite bumper has not buckled or cracked on me yet ! <touch wood> Of course you cannot expect miracles if you crash head on to the wall. For what it's worth, mine is the SSG version. I actually wanted the matching normal graphite but it was not available when I bought it. You may want to seal the graphite edges with CA glue.
I personally think that it's the best thing 3Racing did.
Anyway, welcome on board.
p/s: Be careful of the droop screws when you screw into the aluminum piece. You may want to put some loctite thread lock (blue) on it so that it does not come out. In fact, be careful in all the 3Racing aluminum pieces when you thread in the screw. Easily stripped.
Nope. The graphite bumper has not buckled or cracked on me yet ! <touch wood> Of course you cannot expect miracles if you crash head on to the wall. For what it's worth, mine is the SSG version. I actually wanted the matching normal graphite but it was not available when I bought it. You may want to seal the graphite edges with CA glue.
I personally think that it's the best thing 3Racing did.
Anyway, welcome on board.
p/s: Be careful of the droop screws when you screw into the aluminum piece. You may want to put some loctite thread lock (blue) on it so that it does not come out. In fact, be careful in all the 3Racing aluminum pieces when you thread in the screw. Easily stripped.
I'm eager to run that car! It's been more than two weeks with me. Now finding some time to put in the radio and MAX15 maybe.... and setup.
Re: Re: Re: Front Droop
Originally posted by TitaniumR
Thanks D for the solution. Did anyone ever brought this to Serpent?
Thanks D for the solution. Did anyone ever brought this to Serpent?
I also thought at first NOT to install the CF upper bumper brace because being CF and all, it would crack on impact. Not to mention it will be an expensive part to replace too when compared to the stock plastic ones.
I know a friend of mine who never crashes his car and the stock plastic upper bumper still stays straight ! That cannot be said the same for myself...
I also notice that after putting on the CF upper bumper brace, the lower bumper has yet to crack and break ! I believe if you look at the way the brace will be mounted, you will notice that the lower bumper is also reinforced somehow.
Originally posted by TitaniumR
I'm eager to run that car! It's been more than two weeks with me. Now finding some time to put in the radio and MAX15 maybe.... and setup.
I'm eager to run that car! It's been more than two weeks with me. Now finding some time to put in the radio and MAX15 maybe.... and setup.
Mega by Picco
Interesting that Michael Salven posted his thoughts and comments on the new engine not under team driver column but wrote it under his normal member publication...
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publmem.asp?pid=10364
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publmem.asp?pid=10364
Hey D,
That link you posted on mytsn with a pic of Michaels car, it does seem that his front has alot of toe out correct?
That link you posted on mytsn with a pic of Michaels car, it does seem that his front has alot of toe out correct?
Originally posted by cyba888
That link you posted on mytsn with a pic of Michaels car, it does seem that his front has alot of toe out correct?
That link you posted on mytsn with a pic of Michaels car, it does seem that his front has alot of toe out correct?
I believe Julius mentioned that he ran the same setup as Michael did and looking at Julius' setup on mytsn, it looks like he used toe out of 1 degree per side of the wheel.
Re: Assembly Questions
Originally posted by wolfejohne
I am installing the new 802235 Spacers for Steering Blocks and Rear Uprights and I have a few questions.
1. I have heard that some people have had problems with the spacers causing the bearings to spin in the uprights. Is this so and what caused the problems?
2. When you install the spacers they sit between the inner race of the two ball bearings, do you set the endplay for the wheel axle snug (no lateral play) or a very small amount of endplay when you position/tighten the wheel-adaptor hex?
I am installing the new 802235 Spacers for Steering Blocks and Rear Uprights and I have a few questions.
1. I have heard that some people have had problems with the spacers causing the bearings to spin in the uprights. Is this so and what caused the problems?
2. When you install the spacers they sit between the inner race of the two ball bearings, do you set the endplay for the wheel axle snug (no lateral play) or a very small amount of endplay when you position/tighten the wheel-adaptor hex?
Sometimes too perfect idea would also kill us.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Front Droop
Originally posted by InitialD
Get the yellow Centax clutch shoes. Try the stock flyweight mounting as per the manual. Good luck.
Get the yellow Centax clutch shoes. Try the stock flyweight mounting as per the manual. Good luck.
Stock flyweight mounting meaning no cutting of the flyweights to fit inbetween pins? I thought stock mounting was the cause of irratic engine performance? I did the same stock mounting on my 950R and one of the flyweight broke at the pin. After cutting it, no problem!
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Front Droop
Originally posted by TitaniumR
Stock flyweight mounting meaning no cutting of the flyweights to fit inbetween pins?
Stock flyweight mounting meaning no cutting of the flyweights to fit inbetween pins?
Originally posted by TitaniumR
I thought stock mounting was the cause of irratic engine performance?
I thought stock mounting was the cause of irratic engine performance?
Using the yellow shoes will provide additional grip against the clutchbell. Many have tried the stock flyweight mounting with yellow shoes and they do not have any problems.
If you insist on the stock black Centax clutch shoes, you either have to cut the flyweights to mount them in between the flywheel pins or mount the flyweights in stock position but put one M3x4 set screws at the opposite end of the flyweights to get it to push the clutch shoe harder.
Originally posted by TitaniumR
I did the same stock mounting on my 950R and one of the flyweight broke at the pin.
I did the same stock mounting on my 950R and one of the flyweight broke at the pin.
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Front Droop
Originally posted by InitialD
Try a less powerful engine ! (j/k)
Try a less powerful engine ! (j/k)
Thanks for your tips.
Tech Adept
After getting and driving the S710 for 6 months I finally call it a day.The car is fast but its fragility is getting me down.Pinions,shock shaft centax clutches to name a few.And not forgetting dogbones popping off.Tried everything I could think of still the darn db popped off.In fact in 10 races ,8 were DNF due to this problem.So it's for sale now and I'm going back to my trusted G4.
Originally posted by Zizu
After getting and driving the S710 for 6 months I finally call it a day.The car is fast but its fragility is getting me down.Pinions,shock shaft centax clutches to name a few.And not forgetting dogbones popping off.Tried everything I could think of still the darn db popped off.In fact in 10 races ,8 were DNF due to this problem.So it's for sale now and I'm going back to my trusted G4.
After getting and driving the S710 for 6 months I finally call it a day.The car is fast but its fragility is getting me down.Pinions,shock shaft centax clutches to name a few.And not forgetting dogbones popping off.Tried everything I could think of still the darn db popped off.In fact in 10 races ,8 were DNF due to this problem.So it's for sale now and I'm going back to my trusted G4.
Damage: NOTHING, except some scretch on the body shell.
ps; figure how fast a 200mm car can go on the back straight at JITC track in Jakarta.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Yea...i believe its not properly built. My 710 DB is still intact even after crashes. One more thing, try not to crash
j/k. no harm done to the snake
j/k. no harm done to the snake
Tech Adept
Originally posted by redsand
Had the car been properly built, it'd take you anywhere. My s710 has suffered a high speed head on crash with the metal barrier. The metal cage was on the end of long straight and my car was on full throttle until I realized it wouldn't turn to the right to take the sweeper, it just kept going straight at full speed. It turned out that the linkage screw that connected to the servo horn was loose and eventually it got lost.
Damage: NOTHING, except some scretch on the body shell.
ps; figure how fast a 200mm car can go on the back straight at JITC track in Jakarta.
Had the car been properly built, it'd take you anywhere. My s710 has suffered a high speed head on crash with the metal barrier. The metal cage was on the end of long straight and my car was on full throttle until I realized it wouldn't turn to the right to take the sweeper, it just kept going straight at full speed. It turned out that the linkage screw that connected to the servo horn was loose and eventually it got lost.
Damage: NOTHING, except some scretch on the body shell.
ps; figure how fast a 200mm car can go on the back straight at JITC track in Jakarta.
Tech Adept
Originally posted by jfc_tech
....One more thing, try not to crash
j/k. no harm done to the snake
....One more thing, try not to crash
j/k. no harm done to the snake