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Old 07-06-2004, 09:09 PM   #13621
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Default Re: Silicone tube for dogbones

Quote:
Originally posted by lagnaf
I'm rebuilding my snake after a Sundays race.
I was third and it was my first race with 1/10 nitro car.
Here are some pictures
Nice shots !

Quote:
Originally posted by lagnaf
I wont to know about the silicone tubes inserted beetwen the dogbones.
How much should I put it in.
Should I put it yust in front or to rear d.bones to?
The rear is not required. The front is required only when you use a front ball diff. If you do not want to put the front ball diff, narrow the front trackwidth to about 197 mm. If you want to use 200 mm front trackwidth, I would put about 1 mm to 2 mm of silicone tube on left and right side. From the last post, Julius likes to put the the silicone tube in the steering knuckles side as he does not like the dogbones to go in too deep into the knuckles. For me, I like to put the silicone tubing on where the diff outdrives are to push them into the knuckles.
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Old 07-06-2004, 09:19 PM   #13622
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Default Re: Re: Front Droop

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Originally posted by InitialD
Nope. The graphite bumper has not buckled or cracked on me yet ! <touch wood> Of course you cannot expect miracles if you crash head on to the wall. For what it's worth, mine is the SSG version. I actually wanted the matching normal graphite but it was not available when I bought it. You may want to seal the graphite edges with CA glue.

I personally think that it's the best thing 3Racing did.

Anyway, welcome on board.

p/s: Be careful of the droop screws when you screw into the aluminum piece. You may want to put some loctite thread lock (blue) on it so that it does not come out. In fact, be careful in all the 3Racing aluminum pieces when you thread in the screw. Easily stripped.
Thanks D for the solution. Did anyone ever brought this to Serpent?
I'm eager to run that car! It's been more than two weeks with me. Now finding some time to put in the radio and MAX15 maybe.... and setup.
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Old 07-06-2004, 09:32 PM   #13623
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Default Re: Re: Re: Front Droop

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Originally posted by TitaniumR
Thanks D for the solution. Did anyone ever brought this to Serpent?
Like anybody else would say, don't crash the car. Perhaps Serpent may want to look into that option. Who knows...

I also thought at first NOT to install the CF upper bumper brace because being CF and all, it would crack on impact. Not to mention it will be an expensive part to replace too when compared to the stock plastic ones.

I know a friend of mine who never crashes his car and the stock plastic upper bumper still stays straight ! That cannot be said the same for myself...

I also notice that after putting on the CF upper bumper brace, the lower bumper has yet to crack and break ! I believe if you look at the way the brace will be mounted, you will notice that the lower bumper is also reinforced somehow.

Quote:
Originally posted by TitaniumR
I'm eager to run that car! It's been more than two weeks with me. Now finding some time to put in the radio and MAX15 maybe.... and setup.
Depending on the servos you're using, you may have to shorten the steering servo link to the steering servo horn. Get the yellow Centax clutch shoes. Try the stock flyweight mounting as per the manual. Good luck.
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Old 07-06-2004, 10:16 PM   #13624
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Default Mega by Picco

Interesting that Michael Salven posted his thoughts and comments on the new engine not under team driver column but wrote it under his normal member publication...

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publmem.asp?pid=10364
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Old 07-06-2004, 10:25 PM   #13625
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Hey D,

That link you posted on mytsn with a pic of Michaels car, it does seem that his front has alot of toe out correct?
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Old 07-06-2004, 10:48 PM   #13626
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
That link you posted on mytsn with a pic of Michaels car, it does seem that his front has alot of toe out correct?
Yeah. Even though the steering servo saver does not seem centered, it does look like it has 1 or 2 degree for toe-out per wheel.

I believe Julius mentioned that he ran the same setup as Michael did and looking at Julius' setup on mytsn, it looks like he used toe out of 1 degree per side of the wheel.
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Old 07-06-2004, 11:14 PM   #13627
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Default Re: Assembly Questions

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Originally posted by wolfejohne
I am installing the new 802235 Spacers for Steering Blocks and Rear Uprights and I have a few questions.

1. I have heard that some people have had problems with the spacers causing the bearings to spin in the uprights. Is this so and what caused the problems?
2. When you install the spacers they sit between the inner race of the two ball bearings, do you set the endplay for the wheel axle snug (no lateral play) or a very small amount of endplay when you position/tighten the wheel-adaptor hex?
Withouth the spacer, wheel axle will have some plays on them. The plays between L/R not necessaraly the same due to the nature of plastic when in production. Could be corrected with precision shims to minimize the play. With #802235 spacer, the plays is very minimize until is hard to notice whether there is one. As you could imagine, 2bearings +the width of spacer should be equal to the widht of wheel axle when designing. Everything is good and doing what is supposed to do. Since the extra free space inside of knuckle now being occupied with that spacer, not much space left to gather dust and other track debris. If you did not inspect and clean every time (let`s say per 2 hours of use), all debris inside will jammed around and now make those 2 bearing joinned by spacer become a busing as goldfinger mentioned. In other words, now the wheel axle is the one that actually turning itself of the jammed bearing/spacer. In 30 minutes, there would be more than enough heat to melt the knuckles and your wheels wil airbone complete with its wheel axle and and 2broken bearing + spacer in it

Sometimes too perfect idea would also kill us.
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Old 07-07-2004, 12:31 AM   #13628
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Front Droop

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Get the yellow Centax clutch shoes. Try the stock flyweight mounting as per the manual. Good luck.
OK will try the yellow shoes after getting a hang of the car.

Stock flyweight mounting meaning no cutting of the flyweights to fit inbetween pins? I thought stock mounting was the cause of irratic engine performance? I did the same stock mounting on my 950R and one of the flyweight broke at the pin. After cutting it, no problem!
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Old 07-07-2004, 12:46 AM   #13629
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Front Droop

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Originally posted by TitaniumR
Stock flyweight mounting meaning no cutting of the flyweights to fit inbetween pins?
Yes. But if you do that with the stock black shoes and engine not race tuned (rich from breaking in), then you could have problems getting the clutch to engage.

Quote:
Originally posted by TitaniumR
I thought stock mounting was the cause of irratic engine performance?
Not erratic engine performance but more like erratic clutch performance.

Using the yellow shoes will provide additional grip against the clutchbell. Many have tried the stock flyweight mounting with yellow shoes and they do not have any problems.

If you insist on the stock black Centax clutch shoes, you either have to cut the flyweights to mount them in between the flywheel pins or mount the flyweights in stock position but put one M3x4 set screws at the opposite end of the flyweights to get it to push the clutch shoe harder.

Quote:
Originally posted by TitaniumR
I did the same stock mounting on my 950R and one of the flyweight broke at the pin.
Try a less powerful engine ! (j/k)
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Old 07-07-2004, 01:49 AM   #13630
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Front Droop

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Originally posted by InitialD
Try a less powerful engine ! (j/k)
No kidding you guessed it! It happenned with my Mario Rossi which I think has slightly more oomph than a stock engine. Now I know why all here has been calling you the Master!!!

Thanks for your tips.
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Old 07-07-2004, 01:57 AM   #13631
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After getting and driving the S710 for 6 months I finally call it a day.The car is fast but its fragility is getting me down.Pinions,shock shaft centax clutches to name a few.And not forgetting dogbones popping off.Tried everything I could think of still the darn db popped off.In fact in 10 races ,8 were DNF due to this problem.So it's for sale now and I'm going back to my trusted G4.
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Old 07-07-2004, 02:25 AM   #13632
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Quote:
Originally posted by Zizu
After getting and driving the S710 for 6 months I finally call it a day.The car is fast but its fragility is getting me down.Pinions,shock shaft centax clutches to name a few.And not forgetting dogbones popping off.Tried everything I could think of still the darn db popped off.In fact in 10 races ,8 were DNF due to this problem.So it's for sale now and I'm going back to my trusted G4.
Had the car been properly built, it'd take you anywhere. My s710 has suffered a high speed head on crash with the metal barrier. The metal cage was on the end of long straight and my car was on full throttle until I realized it wouldn't turn to the right to take the sweeper, it just kept going straight at full speed. It turned out that the linkage screw that connected to the servo horn was loose and eventually it got lost.

Damage: NOTHING, except some scretch on the body shell.

ps; figure how fast a 200mm car can go on the back straight at JITC track in Jakarta.
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Old 07-07-2004, 03:25 AM   #13633
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Yea...i believe its not properly built. My 710 DB is still intact even after crashes. One more thing, try not to crash
j/k. no harm done to the snake
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Old 07-07-2004, 06:12 AM   #13634
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Quote:
Originally posted by redsand
Had the car been properly built, it'd take you anywhere. My s710 has suffered a high speed head on crash with the metal barrier. The metal cage was on the end of long straight and my car was on full throttle until I realized it wouldn't turn to the right to take the sweeper, it just kept going straight at full speed. It turned out that the linkage screw that connected to the servo horn was loose and eventually it got lost.

Damage: NOTHING, except some scretch on the body shell.

ps; figure how fast a 200mm car can go on the back straight at JITC track in Jakarta.
You either have one hell of a tough car or the one that I got is dodgy.But I don't believe that mine's dodgy as I got it from a reliable serpent dealer.Yup everything is built spot on and for your info this is my 5th car.Others are MTX3,RREvo,2 G4s and this.Unless serpent comes up with universals than I think some of these problems could be solved.
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Old 07-07-2004, 06:14 AM   #13635
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Quote:
Originally posted by jfc_tech
....One more thing, try not to crash
j/k. no harm done to the snake
I'll try not to but I'm no Surikarn
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