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Old 05-28-2004, 11:43 AM   #11551
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Default Re: Re: Re: Team Tamale Digital Clutch Tool

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Originally posted by GlennCauley
I was exactly of the same opinion...
Once I tried the tool, I was immediately in love with it.
Let see if you are any faster this weekend
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Old 05-28-2004, 12:00 PM   #11552
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Team Tamale Digital Clutch Tool

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Originally posted by Eddie M
Let see if you are any faster this weekend

Man 'o man, Eddie...

Ever have anything nice to say to me?


It'll be an interesting raceday running both cars.
I am impressed so far with the S710... albeit only during breakin.
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Old 05-28-2004, 12:30 PM   #11553
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Take it easy man. I want to borrow your tools
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Old 05-28-2004, 01:19 PM   #11554
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Originally posted by Eddie M
Take it easy man. I want to borrow your tools
I'm just playin' wich ya, Eddie...

Bring your dogbones and pins tomorrow and I will change them for you.


BTW, what tires are you planning on running on your 710?
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Old 05-28-2004, 01:26 PM   #11555
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Clutch

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Originally posted by InitialD
Agreed. But difference will be in unsprung weight !
What is "unsprung weight"?



Quote:
Are you planning to get one?
I would buy one (or two) right now if I can get hold of them! Palmaris says K-H is not going to have the time to make them though ...
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Old 05-28-2004, 01:26 PM   #11556
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Clutch

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Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
I dont believe it is ever going to happen. Mr. Meister doesnt have the time to mass produce both .21 and .12 engines. Unless you are a factory driver you will never see one unless its second hand. Best bet is to hit Mark Green over the head and start running
I think you're right. Next time I see Mark Green I'll take your advice and hit over the head for his engine. Ermm, what the best to use for that? My starter box or my glow plug driver?

Its a pity K-H is not doing the engines. But there ya go ...
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Old 05-28-2004, 01:30 PM   #11557
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Quote:
Originally posted by GlennCauley
I'm just playin' wich ya, Eddie...

Bring your dogbones and pins tomorrow and I will change them for you.


BTW, what tires are you planning on running on your 710?
I will use GQ 42 front & rear and see how it run first and go from there.
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Old 05-28-2004, 02:18 PM   #11558
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Clutch

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Originally posted by Sow&Steady
I think you're right. Next time I see Mark Green I'll take your advice and hit over the head for his engine. Ermm, what the best to use for that? My starter box or my glow plug driver?
If he has a newone by then, cause he is coming over to my track next weekend, and i have my starterbox ready (cells are fully charged for extra weight)
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Old 05-28-2004, 02:41 PM   #11559
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Clutch

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Originally posted by Schrijver99
If he has a newone by then, cause he is coming over to my track next weekend, and i have my starterbox ready (cells are fully charged for extra weight)
Oh? For which race is that Schrijver? Yup, I think a fully charged starter box would be perfect!

Get BOTH the old one and the new one too! He has one in the touring car and the other one is in the Lola one.
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Old 05-28-2004, 05:33 PM   #11560
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Clutch

Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Oh? For which race is that Schrijver? Yup, I think a fully charged starter box would be perfect!

Get BOTH the old one and the new one too! He has one in the touring car and the other one is in the Lola one.
Nah, you guys are doing it all wrong. Hit him with a 100lbs sledge hammer so you at least drive him into the ground a little. Always good for a headstart against the fastest guy in the country
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Old 05-28-2004, 05:57 PM   #11561
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Clutch

Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
What is "unsprung weight"?
Unsprung weight is the weight of all parts that aren't sprung.

Basicly it's the weight of your uprights, wheels, wheelbearings, wheelaxles, wheelnuts and roughly half of the a-arm, trackrods, and driveshaft and part of the shocks.

You could see it as a small mass attached to a larger mass (chassis) by a spring and damper. If you take a poke at the unsprung weight (like a bump) it will move up relative to the chassis. The larger the unsprung weight, the more kinetic energy it has for your shocks to dampen, which isn't good for handling. So with a lot of unsprung weight you would need harder shocks and springs to compensate, but that would affect you cars handling in a bad way too. So less unsprung weight is good.
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Old 05-28-2004, 06:00 PM   #11562
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Clutch

Quote:
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
Nah, you guys are doing it all wrong. Hit him with a 100lbs sledge hammer so you at least drive him into the ground a little. Always good for a headstart against the fastest guy in the country
Knock him out from behind so he doesn't see you. Take the engine and replace the engraved cooling head by a stock NovaMega head so he thinks you're using a regular engine and couldn't have stolen his. That's how I always do it... oops
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Old 05-28-2004, 06:15 PM   #11563
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Clutch

Quote:
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
Nah, you guys are doing it all wrong. Hit him with a 100lbs sledge hammer so you at least drive him into the ground a little. Always good for a headstart against the fastest guy in the country


OK, OK, we better stop. Next time he won't allow me to video him and we all lose 'cos we won't be able to see how the fastest guy in the country does it.
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Old 05-28-2004, 06:15 PM   #11564
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD


For example, if you have 63 mm tires and use -1 and +8 for droop in front and rear, changing to 65 mm tires would give you an additional 1 mm of chassis uptravel (i.e. [65-63]/2=1). So to limit it back to original chassis uptravel as if your car had 63 mm tires, you would need to set your droop screws to 0 (i.e. -1 + 1) and +9 (i.e. +8 + 1) respectively for the front and rear when you use 65 mm tires.

Taking the example above, since very little droop was changed going from 63 mm to 65 mm tires, you could still stick with the same original droop settings. More so since the car has a wider sweatspot. Good luck.
D,

I thought the tire size wouldn't affect your droop. I would think you need to change the droop if you use the shock collar to adjust your ride height.
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Old 05-28-2004, 06:22 PM   #11565
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Clutch

Quote:
Originally posted by KevinS
Unsprung weight is the weight of all parts that aren't sprung.

Basicly it's the weight of your uprights, wheels, wheelbearings, wheelaxles, wheelnuts and roughly half of the a-arm, trackrods, and driveshaft and part of the shocks.

You could see it as a small mass attached to a larger mass (chassis) by a spring and damper. If you take a poke at the unsprung weight (like a bump) it will move up relative to the chassis. The larger the unsprung weight, the more kinetic energy it has for your shocks to dampen, which isn't good for handling. So with a lot of unsprung weight you would need harder shocks and springs to compensate, but that would affect you cars handling in a bad way too. So less unsprung weight is good.
KevinS, thanks very much for that excellent explanation.

The confusing part for me was that I was referring to the rear layshaft and the front or mid shaft to be either made of Ti or hollow spring steel. I thought then that these would be sprung weight since they "sit" on the chassis it self right?
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