Serpent 710
Originally posted by GlennCauley
I was exactly of the same opinion...
Once I tried the tool, I was immediately in love with it.
I was exactly of the same opinion...
Once I tried the tool, I was immediately in love with it.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 315
From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Originally posted by Eddie M
Let see if you are any faster this weekend
Let see if you are any faster this weekend
Man 'o man, Eddie...
Ever have anything nice to say to me?

It'll be an interesting raceday running both cars.
I am impressed so far with the S710... albeit only during breakin.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 315
From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Originally posted by Eddie M
Take it easy man. I want to borrow your tools
Take it easy man. I want to borrow your tools

Bring your dogbones and pins tomorrow and I will change them for you.
BTW, what tires are you planning on running on your 710?
Originally posted by InitialD
Agreed. But difference will be in unsprung weight !
Agreed. But difference will be in unsprung weight !
Are you planning to get one?
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
I dont believe it is ever going to happen. Mr. Meister doesnt have the time to mass produce both .21 and .12 engines. Unless you are a factory driver you will never see one unless its second hand. Best bet is to hit Mark Green over the head and start running
I dont believe it is ever going to happen. Mr. Meister doesnt have the time to mass produce both .21 and .12 engines. Unless you are a factory driver you will never see one unless its second hand. Best bet is to hit Mark Green over the head and start running
Its a pity K-H is not doing the engines. But there ya go ...
Originally posted by GlennCauley
I'm just playin' wich ya, Eddie...
Bring your dogbones and pins tomorrow and I will change them for you.
BTW, what tires are you planning on running on your 710?
I'm just playin' wich ya, Eddie...

Bring your dogbones and pins tomorrow and I will change them for you.
BTW, what tires are you planning on running on your 710?
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
I think you're right. Next time I see Mark Green I'll take your advice and hit over the head for his engine. Ermm, what the best to use for that? My starter box or my glow plug driver?
I think you're right. Next time I see Mark Green I'll take your advice and hit over the head for his engine. Ermm, what the best to use for that? My starter box or my glow plug driver?
Originally posted by Schrijver99
If he has a newone by then, cause he is coming over to my track next weekend, and i have my starterbox ready (cells are fully charged for extra weight)
If he has a newone by then, cause he is coming over to my track next weekend, and i have my starterbox ready (cells are fully charged for extra weight)

Get BOTH the old one and the new one too! He has one in the touring car and the other one is in the Lola one.
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Oh? For which race is that Schrijver? Yup, I think a fully charged starter box would be perfect!
Get BOTH the old one and the new one too! He has one in the touring car and the other one is in the Lola one.
Oh? For which race is that Schrijver? Yup, I think a fully charged starter box would be perfect!

Get BOTH the old one and the new one too! He has one in the touring car and the other one is in the Lola one.
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
What is "unsprung weight"?
What is "unsprung weight"?
Basicly it's the weight of your uprights, wheels, wheelbearings, wheelaxles, wheelnuts and roughly half of the a-arm, trackrods, and driveshaft and part of the shocks.
You could see it as a small mass attached to a larger mass (chassis) by a spring and damper. If you take a poke at the unsprung weight (like a bump) it will move up relative to the chassis. The larger the unsprung weight, the more kinetic energy it has for your shocks to dampen, which isn't good for handling. So with a lot of unsprung weight you would need harder shocks and springs to compensate, but that would affect you cars handling in a bad way too. So less unsprung weight is good.
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
Nah, you guys are doing it all wrong. Hit him with a 100lbs sledge hammer so you at least drive him into the ground a little. Always good for a headstart against the fastest guy in the country
Nah, you guys are doing it all wrong. Hit him with a 100lbs sledge hammer so you at least drive him into the ground a little. Always good for a headstart against the fastest guy in the country
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
Nah, you guys are doing it all wrong. Hit him with a 100lbs sledge hammer so you at least drive him into the ground a little. Always good for a headstart against the fastest guy in the country
Nah, you guys are doing it all wrong. Hit him with a 100lbs sledge hammer so you at least drive him into the ground a little. Always good for a headstart against the fastest guy in the country
OK, OK, we better stop. Next time he won't allow me to video him and we all lose 'cos we won't be able to see how the fastest guy in the country does it.
Originally posted by InitialD
For example, if you have 63 mm tires and use -1 and +8 for droop in front and rear, changing to 65 mm tires would give you an additional 1 mm of chassis uptravel (i.e. [65-63]/2=1). So to limit it back to original chassis uptravel as if your car had 63 mm tires, you would need to set your droop screws to 0 (i.e. -1 + 1) and +9 (i.e. +8 + 1) respectively for the front and rear when you use 65 mm tires.
Taking the example above, since very little droop was changed going from 63 mm to 65 mm tires, you could still stick with the same original droop settings. More so since the car has a wider sweatspot. Good luck.
For example, if you have 63 mm tires and use -1 and +8 for droop in front and rear, changing to 65 mm tires would give you an additional 1 mm of chassis uptravel (i.e. [65-63]/2=1). So to limit it back to original chassis uptravel as if your car had 63 mm tires, you would need to set your droop screws to 0 (i.e. -1 + 1) and +9 (i.e. +8 + 1) respectively for the front and rear when you use 65 mm tires.
Taking the example above, since very little droop was changed going from 63 mm to 65 mm tires, you could still stick with the same original droop settings. More so since the car has a wider sweatspot. Good luck.
I thought the tire size wouldn't affect your droop. I would think you need to change the droop if you use the shock collar to adjust your ride height.
Originally posted by KevinS
Unsprung weight is the weight of all parts that aren't sprung.
Basicly it's the weight of your uprights, wheels, wheelbearings, wheelaxles, wheelnuts and roughly half of the a-arm, trackrods, and driveshaft and part of the shocks.
You could see it as a small mass attached to a larger mass (chassis) by a spring and damper. If you take a poke at the unsprung weight (like a bump) it will move up relative to the chassis. The larger the unsprung weight, the more kinetic energy it has for your shocks to dampen, which isn't good for handling. So with a lot of unsprung weight you would need harder shocks and springs to compensate, but that would affect you cars handling in a bad way too. So less unsprung weight is good.
Unsprung weight is the weight of all parts that aren't sprung.
Basicly it's the weight of your uprights, wheels, wheelbearings, wheelaxles, wheelnuts and roughly half of the a-arm, trackrods, and driveshaft and part of the shocks.
You could see it as a small mass attached to a larger mass (chassis) by a spring and damper. If you take a poke at the unsprung weight (like a bump) it will move up relative to the chassis. The larger the unsprung weight, the more kinetic energy it has for your shocks to dampen, which isn't good for handling. So with a lot of unsprung weight you would need harder shocks and springs to compensate, but that would affect you cars handling in a bad way too. So less unsprung weight is good.
The confusing part for me was that I was referring to the rear layshaft and the front or mid shaft to be either made of Ti or hollow spring steel. I thought then that these would be sprung weight since they "sit" on the chassis it self right?



