I believe some time or another, you will have problems with the powerstart. I think it's because the flywheel wears down after numerous starts. On mine, I need to tilt to the side where the flywheel / rubber wheel is to make good contact. When the rubber wheel wears down, it gets worse. Problem went away with a new start rubber wheel. The rubber wheel gets worn off faster than using it with the 710 compared to using it with the 705 because the 710 flywheel is pretty thin and "cuts" the rubber flywheel more...

Good point. But I guess like what he said earlier, he wants to see how much he gets bashed for what he says in this thread.

Perhaps we should just side step and let somebody new amuse us a little. Kind of like a clown. You'll never know what he has in store for us. First it was the glass car, second you can remove anodise with ACID on aluminum.

Checkout step 9.2 on page 29 to set the gap between the 2 speed show and the 2 speed bell. Set it properly according to the manual and you'll get consistant engagement. Afte running the car for a while, check the gap again. Your 2 speed will tend to engage later and later because this gap widens due to the wear of the aluminum bell. When this happens, set the grub screws back to reset the spacing of the shoe and the aluminum bell.

Check the shoes periodically and clean them regularly as you would with the Centax. One thing when you clean the white shoes, DO NOT take out the aluminum pieces that get stuck in the shoes. Art Carbonnel says that this gives better grip.

And lastly, some had problems with the grub screws coming out of the shoes. I do not have that problem. In case you do, Ronald Baar has put a sequence of photos down here that you could do to prevent the screws from backing out. Hope it is self explanatory.



No on / off switches for me ! No added weight and no added problems ! Really simple and bullet proof. But that's personal. I use a servo extender wire that hangs out / extends from the receiver. I just plug the other end of the extender to the battery connector. Tadda. You can take a look at Glenn Cauley's articles on mytsn on how he does his on off switches.

Not sure if you want to do this but it worked for me. I used the adapters that came with the 710 for the PowerStart box and found the two pieces on either side of the wheel actually caused the problem, they hit the chassis before the rubber wheel made contact with the flywheel. I used a sharp knife (like the ones used for cutting carpet) and cut 2mm off the diameter on each side. This has had no effect on the strenght of the parts.

I use the KO switch on my 710. The only thing i don't like about it is that it has a small current draw even when it's turned off. I used the same mounting procedure as Glen.

Yes. I have noticed that the plastic wheel (not the rubber) interferes with the flywheel opening hole of the chassis. The opening looks like it's not wide enough. I have seen some at my local track do it by making the wheel thinner so that it can make contact with the flywheel deeper.

If you bent it back, there is a good change that it will break either on the process or in medium impact

Still remember those days ?

S705... oh boy.. that`s how we loose more than 75% of local Serpent market share.

hey "D" here is my kyosho(sorry for posting it in this forum )

(using the latest Monotuning products:header gasket,fuel line and foam tires)

I like the way you express it all in a clear crystal fashion!
Uncle Sow, sorry to use your statement.

This morning, my partner is in "healthy" condition.

Which partner are you referring to?

Nice. But I think your "other" car is nicer.

Just a biased opinion from me.

thanks ,me too

sorry ..dont get it wrong

I meant the guy who finished in 5th position.

http://www.daltonshop.com/gqcup2004.htm

Bro, we can share the car setup but we can not share the joy and too much laughter we had.
Check it out...