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Old 12-30-2003, 06:08 AM   #2311
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I think he needs to come back to assemble his 710s, test it and head to Thailand on January 10th and 11th for some kick ass action !
Damn! Can anyone keep themselves "hidden" in this great net-world ???

D, with such a short prep time before the race I think you need to kick my ass first for me to kick anyone else's
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Old 12-30-2003, 06:13 AM   #2312
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Quote:
Originally posted by ammdrew
here is about the 40 minute point, I had to make dinner and eat in this time area too, so it was a bit of a hassel, almost burnt the sweet and sour chicken...... that would of made the wife even happy..
ammdrew ... wouldn't it be great if you could install a webcam in your "710" workshop? We'd love to drool and see you build the car!

From time to time you could even do a Blaine imitation and slow wave to us
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Old 12-30-2003, 06:21 AM   #2313
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Quote:
Originally posted by Zizu
Fair enough.But the G4 drivers only got their cars about 3 weeks ago.So it's fair game.All used to drive MTX3, V1RR and even Impulse Pro.
We're planning to go to Kuching for the Asean Cup
One of the 710s were being driven by the country top driver.
All stock except alu wheel hexes.
Zizu, I rest my case ... you win

Is the Asean Cup confirmed for Kuching? What are the dates?
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Old 12-30-2003, 06:47 AM   #2314
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Quote:
Originally posted by S710_Nut
Guys,

I am trying to mine a little more setup, i disconnected the frnt and rear sway bars and shocks. Then set the droop as per the setup book, when i reconnected the shocks and swaybars i measured it again and it is out? Is this normal?
If they are equal left and right but just lower (about a mm is normal) there is nothing wrong. The droop is measured without shocks. When you mount the shocks the springs will push on the arms making the downstop seem lower. As long as you always measure with the shocks off it's ok.

If they are uneven left and right it may be a tweak in the sway bar.
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Old 12-30-2003, 07:02 AM   #2315
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Default Brooklands Winter Series Dates

Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Yes Diesel, I run the foam class. I would love to race at Brookland, I'll try to make it up there another time though because am little tied up on the 4th with something else.

Heh heh ... I really really want to, don't you just know it
Here's the website so you can check the dates. Kent IC Club Website

Hope this helps, and maybe I'll see you there.

Cheers

Mark
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Old 12-30-2003, 07:07 AM   #2316
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
D, with such a short prep time before the race I think you need to kick my ass first for me to kick anyone else's
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Old 12-30-2003, 07:11 AM   #2317
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Forgot to answer you on this one ... I've tried it with a NovaRossi as well as an RB and it seems that the powerband is really good at mid-to-high range. If your track is large and flowing then this pipe is perfect especially with the RB. Its even better with the RB Rody Tuned

Now this does not mean that its not good for the low-end either but I find the TP04 a little better. One thing for sure, some people I know don't like the Shark in-line version, not sure why.
Sow&Steady, I assume your running a 5 port with this pipe is that correct? I've only just bought a Novarossi NSR12-S3 because I was running in the rubber class, however as Brooklands is a fast and flowing track I imaging the pipe should work OK. The pipe looks a little sturdier than my existing Novarossi which is now distorted after over freezing it.
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Old 12-30-2003, 07:14 AM   #2318
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Default Re: Brooklands Winter Series Dates

Quote:
Originally posted by Diesel Racer
Hope this helps, and maybe I'll see you there.

Cheers

Mark
Mark, thanks! I'll definitely try to make it up there some time...

Have you been down to the LRRC?
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Old 12-30-2003, 07:22 AM   #2319
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Forgot to answer you on this one ... I've tried it with a NovaRossi as well as an RB and it seems that the powerband is really good at mid-to-high range. If your track is large and flowing then this pipe is perfect especially with the RB. Its even better with the RB Rody Tuned
Incidently, I tried to tune 710 equipped with a NovaMax engine and an inline Shark pipe. Confirmed that sucker seems to like to rev high with this pipe. I think the high end needle was like 5 to 6 rounds out if I'm not mistaken. Low end was stock 3.5 turns out. I mean really sharp high revving engine and it's pretty scary.

What is most interesting is both inserts were used to make the pipe even longer...

Gotta try the shark inline with my NovaMax.
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Old 12-30-2003, 07:24 AM   #2320
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Quote:
Originally posted by Diesel Racer
Sow&Steady, I assume your running a 5 port with this pipe is that correct? I've only just bought a Novarossi NSR12-S3 because I was running in the rubber class, however as Brooklands is a fast and flowing track I imaging the pipe should work OK. The pipe looks a little sturdier than my existing Novarossi which is now distorted after over freezing it.
Yes, I'm afraid I'm an outlaw nut. I was just "brought up" that way when I started nitro racing. Ever since then I've been using only 5 ports and even some with "distorted" ports!

The pipe should work great with the NSR12-S3 because as I understand it this engine already has gobs of low-end. The combo will be a killer on your track because of the fast and flowing layout.

Look at D's last post on this pipe a little earlier too ...

The Shark is definitely one tough pipe, I promise you that it'll take a huge t-bone to even make a small dent on it! The price for this? Well, its a little heavier than other pipes. I've used it for over a year now and there's only a small dent on it plus the stinger is intact ... not THAT makes it all worth it!
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Old 12-30-2003, 07:26 AM   #2321
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Quote:
Originally posted by RobbyDV
In the front theres no problem, U can adjust it by using the little level at the right. Also make sure your shocks are having the same size.

I have the same problem with the rear sway bar, when connecting it, my right arm goes up 1mm. my sway bar links are the same size and the sway bar is flat (not bend)..
Thats why the links are adjustable. Just make one link a little longer. Because the swaybar attaches almost halway on the suspension arm, 0.5mm makes 1mm at the upright. In a perfect world the links should be the same size but all little tolerances can add up.
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Old 12-30-2003, 07:29 AM   #2322
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Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
If they are equal left and right but just lower (about a mm is normal) there is nothing wrong. The droop is measured without shocks. When you mount the shocks the springs will push on the arms making the downstop seem lower. As long as you always measure with the shocks off it's ok.

If they are uneven left and right it may be a tweak in the sway bar.
Julius, I think I find that it's the same with my 710. I find that there's a slight tweak on the rear LEFT (edited) side (more pressure on the LEFT (edited) rear wheel) when the front is compressed. This means that even with the same rear droop left and right with shocks off, the car will tweak on the LEFT (edited) side. I think it's due to the rear sway bar as I've check others and made sure all shocks compress and rebound at the same rate and pressure.

In the end, I end up with a slightly more droop on the rear right side to get the car balance the same and track straight upon hard braking with a one way front.

Last edited by InitialD; 12-30-2003 at 07:45 AM.
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Old 12-30-2003, 07:32 AM   #2323
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Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
Thats why the links are adjustable. Just make one link a little longer. Because the swaybar attaches almost halway on the suspension arm, 0.5mm makes 1mm at the upright. In a perfect world the links should be the same size but all little tolerances can add up.
Oopphs, did not see this post coming. Cool, I'll try this trick to shorten the LEFT (edited) rear sway bar link to get equal tweak.

Last edited by InitialD; 12-30-2003 at 07:45 AM.
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Old 12-30-2003, 07:37 AM   #2324
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
The 2nd speed spur housing should turn freely without any binding with the 2 speed shoes.

Page 29 (Step 9.2) of the manual describes how you should adjust the gap in between the 2nd speed spur housing and the 2 speed shoes.

the shoe fit in the second gear houseing with visable space between the metal rim of the or the housing and shoes, and when I turn the shoes something keeps grabing, and I dont know what it is, I didnt want to finish the assemble and it not supposed to be that way, any suggestions
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Old 12-30-2003, 07:39 AM   #2325
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Yes, I'm afraid I'm an outlaw nut. I was just "brought up" that way when I started nitro racing. Ever since then I've been using only 5 ports and even some with "distorted" ports!


If that's the case, I guess we're related and in the same family then !

Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
The price for this? Well, its a little heavier than other pipes.
I think any added weight on the 710 is welcomed !

On a serious note, I actually tried to balance the car staticly on two pins in the middle of the car. I found that with everything installed minus the bodyshell and fuel, the car tended to lean heavier on the right side where the radios and servos are.

Any comments on this Julius? How important is it to balance the weight equal left and right? Should we add static weights on the left side to balance the car? I thought that the design of a center tank was just to get equal left to right balance all throught full to empty tank...
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