Serpent 710
#2311
Originally posted by InitialD
I think he needs to come back to assemble his 710s, test it and head to Thailand on January 10th and 11th for some kick ass action !
I think he needs to come back to assemble his 710s, test it and head to Thailand on January 10th and 11th for some kick ass action !
D, with such a short prep time before the race I think you need to kick my ass first for me to kick anyone else's
#2312
Originally posted by ammdrew
here is about the 40 minute point, I had to make dinner and eat in this time area too, so it was a bit of a hassel, almost burnt the sweet and sour chicken...... that would of made the wife even happy..
here is about the 40 minute point, I had to make dinner and eat in this time area too, so it was a bit of a hassel, almost burnt the sweet and sour chicken...... that would of made the wife even happy..
From time to time you could even do a Blaine imitation and slow wave to us
#2313
Originally posted by Zizu
Fair enough.But the G4 drivers only got their cars about 3 weeks ago.So it's fair game.All used to drive MTX3, V1RR and even Impulse Pro.
We're planning to go to Kuching for the Asean Cup
One of the 710s were being driven by the country top driver.
All stock except alu wheel hexes.
Fair enough.But the G4 drivers only got their cars about 3 weeks ago.So it's fair game.All used to drive MTX3, V1RR and even Impulse Pro.
We're planning to go to Kuching for the Asean Cup
One of the 710s were being driven by the country top driver.
All stock except alu wheel hexes.
Is the Asean Cup confirmed for Kuching? What are the dates?
#2314
Originally posted by S710_Nut
Guys,
I am trying to mine a little more setup, i disconnected the frnt and rear sway bars and shocks. Then set the droop as per the setup book, when i reconnected the shocks and swaybars i measured it again and it is out? Is this normal?
Guys,
I am trying to mine a little more setup, i disconnected the frnt and rear sway bars and shocks. Then set the droop as per the setup book, when i reconnected the shocks and swaybars i measured it again and it is out? Is this normal?
If they are uneven left and right it may be a tweak in the sway bar.
#2315
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Yes Diesel, I run the foam class. I would love to race at Brookland, I'll try to make it up there another time though because am little tied up on the 4th with something else.
Heh heh ... I really really want to, don't you just know it
Yes Diesel, I run the foam class. I would love to race at Brookland, I'll try to make it up there another time though because am little tied up on the 4th with something else.
Heh heh ... I really really want to, don't you just know it
Hope this helps, and maybe I'll see you there.
Cheers
Mark
#2317
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Forgot to answer you on this one ... I've tried it with a NovaRossi as well as an RB and it seems that the powerband is really good at mid-to-high range. If your track is large and flowing then this pipe is perfect especially with the RB. Its even better with the RB Rody Tuned
Now this does not mean that its not good for the low-end either but I find the TP04 a little better. One thing for sure, some people I know don't like the Shark in-line version, not sure why.
Forgot to answer you on this one ... I've tried it with a NovaRossi as well as an RB and it seems that the powerband is really good at mid-to-high range. If your track is large and flowing then this pipe is perfect especially with the RB. Its even better with the RB Rody Tuned
Now this does not mean that its not good for the low-end either but I find the TP04 a little better. One thing for sure, some people I know don't like the Shark in-line version, not sure why.
#2318
Originally posted by Diesel Racer
Hope this helps, and maybe I'll see you there.
Cheers
Mark
Hope this helps, and maybe I'll see you there.
Cheers
Mark
Have you been down to the LRRC?
#2319
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Forgot to answer you on this one ... I've tried it with a NovaRossi as well as an RB and it seems that the powerband is really good at mid-to-high range. If your track is large and flowing then this pipe is perfect especially with the RB. Its even better with the RB Rody Tuned
Forgot to answer you on this one ... I've tried it with a NovaRossi as well as an RB and it seems that the powerband is really good at mid-to-high range. If your track is large and flowing then this pipe is perfect especially with the RB. Its even better with the RB Rody Tuned
What is most interesting is both inserts were used to make the pipe even longer...
Gotta try the shark inline with my NovaMax.
#2320
Originally posted by Diesel Racer
Sow&Steady, I assume your running a 5 port with this pipe is that correct? I've only just bought a Novarossi NSR12-S3 because I was running in the rubber class, however as Brooklands is a fast and flowing track I imaging the pipe should work OK. The pipe looks a little sturdier than my existing Novarossi which is now distorted after over freezing it.
Sow&Steady, I assume your running a 5 port with this pipe is that correct? I've only just bought a Novarossi NSR12-S3 because I was running in the rubber class, however as Brooklands is a fast and flowing track I imaging the pipe should work OK. The pipe looks a little sturdier than my existing Novarossi which is now distorted after over freezing it.
The pipe should work great with the NSR12-S3 because as I understand it this engine already has gobs of low-end. The combo will be a killer on your track because of the fast and flowing layout.
Look at D's last post on this pipe a little earlier too ...
The Shark is definitely one tough pipe, I promise you that it'll take a huge t-bone to even make a small dent on it! The price for this? Well, its a little heavier than other pipes. I've used it for over a year now and there's only a small dent on it plus the stinger is intact ... not THAT makes it all worth it!
#2321
Originally posted by RobbyDV
In the front theres no problem, U can adjust it by using the little level at the right. Also make sure your shocks are having the same size.
I have the same problem with the rear sway bar, when connecting it, my right arm goes up 1mm. my sway bar links are the same size and the sway bar is flat (not bend)..
In the front theres no problem, U can adjust it by using the little level at the right. Also make sure your shocks are having the same size.
I have the same problem with the rear sway bar, when connecting it, my right arm goes up 1mm. my sway bar links are the same size and the sway bar is flat (not bend)..
#2322
Originally posted by Julius
If they are equal left and right but just lower (about a mm is normal) there is nothing wrong. The droop is measured without shocks. When you mount the shocks the springs will push on the arms making the downstop seem lower. As long as you always measure with the shocks off it's ok.
If they are uneven left and right it may be a tweak in the sway bar.
If they are equal left and right but just lower (about a mm is normal) there is nothing wrong. The droop is measured without shocks. When you mount the shocks the springs will push on the arms making the downstop seem lower. As long as you always measure with the shocks off it's ok.
If they are uneven left and right it may be a tweak in the sway bar.
In the end, I end up with a slightly more droop on the rear right side to get the car balance the same and track straight upon hard braking with a one way front.
Last edited by InitialD; 12-30-2003 at 06:45 AM.
#2323
Originally posted by Julius
Thats why the links are adjustable. Just make one link a little longer. Because the swaybar attaches almost halway on the suspension arm, 0.5mm makes 1mm at the upright. In a perfect world the links should be the same size but all little tolerances can add up.
Thats why the links are adjustable. Just make one link a little longer. Because the swaybar attaches almost halway on the suspension arm, 0.5mm makes 1mm at the upright. In a perfect world the links should be the same size but all little tolerances can add up.
Last edited by InitialD; 12-30-2003 at 06:45 AM.
#2324
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 80
Originally posted by InitialD
The 2nd speed spur housing should turn freely without any binding with the 2 speed shoes.
Page 29 (Step 9.2) of the manual describes how you should adjust the gap in between the 2nd speed spur housing and the 2 speed shoes.
The 2nd speed spur housing should turn freely without any binding with the 2 speed shoes.
Page 29 (Step 9.2) of the manual describes how you should adjust the gap in between the 2nd speed spur housing and the 2 speed shoes.
the shoe fit in the second gear houseing with visable space between the metal rim of the or the housing and shoes, and when I turn the shoes something keeps grabing, and I dont know what it is, I didnt want to finish the assemble and it not supposed to be that way, any suggestions
#2325
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Yes, I'm afraid I'm an outlaw nut. I was just "brought up" that way when I started nitro racing. Ever since then I've been using only 5 ports and even some with "distorted" ports!
Yes, I'm afraid I'm an outlaw nut. I was just "brought up" that way when I started nitro racing. Ever since then I've been using only 5 ports and even some with "distorted" ports!
If that's the case, I guess we're related and in the same family then !
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
The price for this? Well, its a little heavier than other pipes.
The price for this? Well, its a little heavier than other pipes.
On a serious note, I actually tried to balance the car staticly on two pins in the middle of the car. I found that with everything installed minus the bodyshell and fuel, the car tended to lean heavier on the right side where the radios and servos are.
Any comments on this Julius? How important is it to balance the weight equal left and right? Should we add static weights on the left side to balance the car? I thought that the design of a center tank was just to get equal left to right balance all throught full to empty tank...



