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Old 12-29-2003, 06:42 PM   #2281
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Default Re: First runs with 710s...

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Originally posted by pineapplet
Changes direction easily, forgiving when i come off the line (which is very often due to my driving skill!) and blinding fast even with my dinky 3port novamega (that hasn't been serviced since i bought it along with my pro about 2 yrs ago).
Yes, acceleration is great ! And you're right that it changes directions very fast like a battery car.


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Originally posted by pineapplet
1) I dropped the speedminds for ellegis that came with the car... Btw, the rear tire does seems softer. After two tanks, the rear was worn faster too.
My Ellegis are still brand new and untouched !

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Originally posted by pineapplet
2) The diff clamp was completely loose at the start of the day and our diffs were still tight. However, it gets looser with each tank and the screw needs to be tightened again. By the 4th tank, the diff stops 'adjusting itself'. We ran it quite tight for the track. Made for awesome corner exits!
Yup, this is what I noticed too. In the beginning, you need to tighten the diff clamp as after a few runs as it loosens itself and the diff becomes loose. Now, the setting holds and the diffs stop self adjusting.

I also noticed that the car handled even better when the rear diffs are tighter. For sweeping tracks though. Not for small technical ones.

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Originally posted by pineapplet
3) Running the front narrower than stock gave the car a tighter on-power exit. For the first 1 or 2 tanks, i nearly went wide into the grass each time i tried to gun out of the turns.
Cool. I'll try to narrow the front trackwidth.

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Originally posted by pineapplet
4) I had some strange black gunk buildup on the centre bearing of the belt tensioner. And my main belt was marked somehow.. (can be seen clearly in the pic) The rear belt turned a bit pale too.
Well, I think it's pretty normal. Just clean the side and front belt and you'll see the Serpent part numbers on the belt again. As good as new ! On my car, I can see that my rear belt is rubbed slightly as the part number printing is off. I think it rubs slightly at the bottom but I notice that now it does not.

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Originally posted by pineapplet
5)The bottom of my RX box was also a bit scuffed after a few slight skips on corner islands.
What about the lovely 4 mm chassis?

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Originally posted by pineapplet
Overall, i don't think this car is as strong as the impulse and 705.. On the other hand, the impulse and 705 were built like M1 Abrams and NEVER took less than 4 tanks to inspire the kind of confidence we had after yesterday's run!
I think for the weight, it is durable enough. I agree with what you say. It is not as durable as the 705 !

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Originally posted by pineapplet
My car after 4 tanks:
Everytime I see your cars are without engine and pipe ! How do you guys manage to run them? Must be electric powered then !
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Old 12-29-2003, 07:01 PM   #2282
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Actually I only have two to build three and four just go into boxes as spare parts...
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Old 12-29-2003, 07:03 PM   #2283
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here is about the 40 minute point, I had to make dinner and eat in this time area too, so it was a bit of a hassel, almost burnt the sweet and sour chicken...... that would of made the wife even happy..


the arms had a bind, fron, found that when you tighten the mount screw it flexes the part and causes a bind, solution do not tighten as tight.. just snugg.. arms freely fall then..
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Old 12-29-2003, 07:06 PM   #2284
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Originally posted by lawndoggie
Having broken over 20 front shock shaft. I can now build serpent shocks with my eyes closed!!
You'll have to tell me when the bubbles in the oil are gone though!
And you still stay using it? you are d man..

About the new MTX, it is like indirect saying from one of the japans official. It might be wrong, but they must have comes up with something for the wolrds, dont they? revision at least.
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Old 12-29-2003, 07:09 PM   #2285
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Default Re: Re: First runs with 710s...

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Everytime I see your cars are without engine and pipe ! How do you guys manage to run them? Must be electric powered then !

Heh heh.. I live just next to the sea (spitting distance!) so everything rusts! All my engines go on the cars just prior to running, and almost immediately taken out afterwards and stored inside tupperware! I may invest in one of those camera dryboxes soon too!

Yes the lovely 4mm is scuffed too.. The front edge of my lower bumper plate is also frayed a bit. Oh well... it was inevitable.

I think i read in mytsn that the steering parts are also prone to cracking due to being overly stiff. Same problems that Losi had with their stiff-as-hell XXX4 arms? Perhaps serpent shd rethink the compromise btwn flexible stuff and overly stiff stuff that gives precise handling.

Thanks for the belt info... Can't wait to get back on the track with this thing!!
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Old 12-29-2003, 07:13 PM   #2286
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Quote:
Originally posted by ammdrew
the arms had a bind, fron, found that when you tighten the mount screw it flexes the part and causes a bind, solution do not tighten as tight.. just snugg.. arms freely fall then..
Which screw is this? The grub screw that holds the pivot pins?
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Old 12-29-2003, 07:35 PM   #2287
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Default Re: Re: Solid Axle

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I saw some local guys here using self made pins to lock the one way front. They cut some of the left overs of the brake / throttle linkage and inserted them into the holes to lock the one way. To keep the pins in place, they wrap it around using a silicone exhaust coupler meant to join 2 piece pipes / manifolds ! That's a cheap solution for ya !
I used some pre threded piano type wire i think that is what it is called put loctite on the thread with a nut and made a small 90 degree bend on the other side works for me
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Old 12-29-2003, 08:03 PM   #2288
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Default Re: Re: Re: First runs with 710s...

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Originally posted by pineapplet
I think i read in mytsn that the steering parts are also prone to cracking due to being overly stiff. Same problems that Losi had with their stiff-as-hell XXX4 arms? Perhaps serpent shd rethink the compromise btwn flexible stuff and overly stiff stuff that gives precise handling.
I actually did not understand the part about the brittle steering knuckles. When I used the same FC steering blocks on my 705 and Impulse PRO, I thought they were more durable than the stock steering blocks. In fact, I have not broken any steering blocks and it's still the first set of steering blocks I used on the 705. I notice that when you brush hard against something, the pivot balls will just pop out from the steering knuckles. The aluminum pivot balls did not bend. Neither were they stripped out of the plastic. Perhaps I need to put in more track time with the car.
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Old 12-29-2003, 08:36 PM   #2289
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OK! i don't want to brag or anything....im officially a snakey now. YAAAHHHooooooo (over excited or what!)

D, now u can order me the batt if u can help me. I hate 2 build my own....i had enough "BATT-SOLDERING" already on my EP.

PM or something. thanks friend. now goin to register myTSN
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Old 12-29-2003, 08:43 PM   #2290
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D, now u can order me the batt if u can help me. I hate 2 build my own....i had enough "BATT-SOLDERING" already on my EP.


I've sent you PM. I think best is to deal with them directly as they should be able to courier it to you.
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Old 12-29-2003, 08:43 PM   #2291
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Which screw is this? The grub screw that holds the pivot pins?
two screw under the front arm mounts, were they scre to the chassie, they flex as you torque.. just to be aware is about the best answer
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Old 12-29-2003, 08:44 PM   #2292
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arms mounted, all moving smoothly no bionding everything works well, on to the drivetrian
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Old 12-29-2003, 08:50 PM   #2293
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Quote:
Originally posted by ammdrew
two screw under the front arm mounts, were they scre to the chassie, they flex as you torque.. just to be aware is about the best answer
Andrew, hope you realise that the new 710 plastic parts all have notches in the screw holes to grip and sit into the chassis better. Kinda difficult to explain but there is extra plastic that goes into the chassis and sometimes it does not go in fully. Make sure this is fully in. I notice that it was especially difficult to get the middle bearing block to sit in fully onto the chassis surface. Just trying to let you know if you did not realise this.
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Old 12-29-2003, 08:53 PM   #2294
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no that is not the issue, what it is if you take the part you can twist it, it flexes, so as you put that last ummph in the screws it causes the piece to twist ever so slightly and bind the lower front arm.. so the fix is not to ummph so much...


the middle was a bit to get in but not too bad, everyting has gone together quite well so far..
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Old 12-29-2003, 10:14 PM   #2295
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Yo guys

when you place the clutch shoe in the second gear housing is it supposed to stick a little or turn freely within the housing, because I just placed the shoes in the 2nd gear housing and turned it a little and it not turning freely its sticking on something
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