Serpent 710
Originally posted by markp27
This is getting silly now - can this really be down to a manufacturing fault or are we too incompetent to break parts which were intended to be broken
This is getting silly now - can this really be down to a manufacturing fault or are we too incompetent to break parts which were intended to be broken
) as a second shock tower for the rear body post as what Onkel Sow and Mark Green did.
Originally posted by redsand
I found out that when using the new rear swaybar, the ball ends on both side have to be pushed 2 mm in. Otherwise the rods rub the dogbones.
I found out that when using the new rear swaybar, the ball ends on both side have to be pushed 2 mm in. Otherwise the rods rub the dogbones.
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 783
Originally posted by sparksy
So who has fitted this? Has anyone else found it causes the origional part of the assembly (the arm that the servo link attatches to) to hit the left hand bulkhead?
So who has fitted this? Has anyone else found it causes the origional part of the assembly (the arm that the servo link attatches to) to hit the left hand bulkhead?
Free enough, just like standard ones but makes more steering travel.
Be carefull on EPA setting.
On max 28 deg travel, knuckle (steeringblock) will hit his own pillow ball (this is the only stopper) and dogbone will stuck on the driveshaft too.
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Just nice!
Free enough, just like standard ones but makes more steering travel.
Be carefull on EPA setting.
On max 28 deg travel, knuckle (steeringblock) will hit his own pillow ball (this is the only stopper) and dogbone will stuck on the driveshaft too.
Just nice!
Free enough, just like standard ones but makes more steering travel.
Be carefull on EPA setting.
On max 28 deg travel, knuckle (steeringblock) will hit his own pillow ball (this is the only stopper) and dogbone will stuck on the driveshaft too.
Any problems if you shorten the wheelbase and use the new servo saver?
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 783
Originally posted by InitialD
Are those measurements taken when you mount the steering rod linkage on top of the servo saver or on the bottom like what Serpent manual suggest?
Any problems if you shorten the wheelbase and use the new servo saver?
Are those measurements taken when you mount the steering rod linkage on top of the servo saver or on the bottom like what Serpent manual suggest?
Any problems if you shorten the wheelbase and use the new servo saver?
I haven't shorten the wheelbase yet.
This is 1 thing Im sure about this new servosaver.
This angle combo is creating extra traction on outside front wheel. So this will drastically help when your previous car bit understeer coming out and in the middle of high speed corner.
But if the car has enough steering already, installing this new ackerman will makes rearend loose traction (suddenly)in middle of corner. Even with smooth throttling.
Just like mine on last week
1 more thing, when using this ackerman and the car is traction rolled, widening front trackwidht will not help.
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 783
Originally posted by GoldFinger
On bottom just like manual.
I haven't shorten the wheelbase yet.
This is 1 thing Im sure about this new servosaver.
This angle combo is creating extra traction on outside front wheel. So this will drastically help when your previous car bit understeer coming out and in the middle of high speed corner.
But if the car has enough steering already, installing this new ackerman will makes rearend loose traction (suddenly)in middle of corner. Even with smooth throttling.
Just like mine on last week
1 more thing, when using this ackerman and the car is traction rolled, widening front trackwidht will not help.
On bottom just like manual.
I haven't shorten the wheelbase yet.
This is 1 thing Im sure about this new servosaver.
This angle combo is creating extra traction on outside front wheel. So this will drastically help when your previous car bit understeer coming out and in the middle of high speed corner.
But if the car has enough steering already, installing this new ackerman will makes rearend loose traction (suddenly)in middle of corner. Even with smooth throttling.
Just like mine on last week
1 more thing, when using this ackerman and the car is traction rolled, widening front trackwidht will not help.
Just need to find some good setup combination.
Originally posted by GoldFinger
But if the car has enough steering already, installing this new ackerman will makes rearend loose traction (suddenly)in middle of corner. Even with smooth throttling.
But if the car has enough steering already, installing this new ackerman will makes rearend loose traction (suddenly)in middle of corner. Even with smooth throttling.
Just for your info, the 705 has a shorter wheelbase than the stock 710 !
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Anyway, this is 1 good addition for maximizing this car.
Just need to find some good setup combination.
Anyway, this is 1 good addition for maximizing this car.
Just need to find some good setup combination.
I use a slightly lower rear roll center (UTI/LB) than the stock and the rear is pretty planted. This even with harder rear springs than front !
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 783
Originally posted by InitialD
What front and rear roll center are you currently using at the moment?
I use a slightly lower rear roll center (UTI/LB) than the stock and the rear is pretty planted. This even with harder rear springs than front !
What front and rear roll center are you currently using at the moment?
I use a slightly lower rear roll center (UTI/LB) than the stock and the rear is pretty planted. This even with harder rear springs than front !
Red spring , 60wt 5hole all round in high tracktion track.
Im quite confident with slight sideaway coming out corner.
When tarack became tacky and traction rolling is an issue, I just made FR track wider than RR it get better laptimes.
If you are now using harder rear spring than front, I guess this ackerman is for you.
Are you using front diff ?
Originally posted by InitialD
I assume that this is mounting the sway bar on the outer part of the lower rear arm? What about mounting the sway bar in the inner part of the lower arm (softer)?
I assume that this is mounting the sway bar on the outer part of the lower rear arm? What about mounting the sway bar in the inner part of the lower arm (softer)?
Originally posted by GoldFinger
If you are now using harder rear spring than front, I guess this ackerman is for you.
Are you using front diff ?
If you are now using harder rear spring than front, I guess this ackerman is for you.
Are you using front diff ?
Yellow spring in front (on shock tower hole 3) and red spring rear (on shock tower hole 3). 40 wt Serpent shock oil with 4 x 1.2 mm holes. Front sway bar hardest at 90 degree. Rear sway bar (stock 2 mm) is about 12 mm from the end (mounted inner hole on the rear lower arm). Camber is -2 in the front and -4 and -3.5 in the rear left and right respectively. Rear toe in +1.5 and front toe out is -0.75. I think the front droop is either +1 or 0 and rear is somewhere +6 to +8. Caster is 3 mm at the back of the front arm. So using a shorter wheelbase by 2 mm, I use a 1 mm caster at the back of the front arm.
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Just nice!
Free enough, just like standard ones but makes more steering travel.
Be carefull on EPA setting.
On max 28 deg travel, knuckle (steeringblock) will hit his own pillow ball (this is the only stopper) and dogbone will stuck on the driveshaft too.
Just nice!
Free enough, just like standard ones but makes more steering travel.
Be carefull on EPA setting.
On max 28 deg travel, knuckle (steeringblock) will hit his own pillow ball (this is the only stopper) and dogbone will stuck on the driveshaft too.
I am using the rod linkage in top with the original servo saver; definitely this will not work because it will hit the ball diff (with 2 piece adjuster install), so I did change this but could not solve the problem with the left bulkhead.
Any recommendation how to solve this?
Originally posted by InitialD
I use my "intended to be broken" shock tower (repaired and resurrected it
) as a second shock tower for the rear body post as what Onkel Sow and Mark Green did.
I use my "intended to be broken" shock tower (repaired and resurrected it
) as a second shock tower for the rear body post as what Onkel Sow and Mark Green did.
Originally posted by GoldFinger
On bottom just like manual.
I haven't shorten the wheelbase yet.
This is 1 thing Im sure about this new servosaver.
This angle combo is creating extra traction on outside front wheel. So this will drastically help when your previous car bit understeer coming out and in the middle of high speed corner.
But if the car has enough steering already, installing this new ackerman will makes rearend loose traction (suddenly)in middle of corner. Even with smooth throttling.
Just like mine on last week
1 more thing, when using this ackerman and the car is traction rolled, widening front trackwidht will not help.
On bottom just like manual.
I haven't shorten the wheelbase yet.
This is 1 thing Im sure about this new servosaver.
This angle combo is creating extra traction on outside front wheel. So this will drastically help when your previous car bit understeer coming out and in the middle of high speed corner.
But if the car has enough steering already, installing this new ackerman will makes rearend loose traction (suddenly)in middle of corner. Even with smooth throttling.
Just like mine on last week
1 more thing, when using this ackerman and the car is traction rolled, widening front trackwidht will not help.
These are the thing we definitely DON'T want! What we want are sharper cornering and faster corner speeds.
Now I'm nervous about this new system. I don't mind the loose rear-end. That's easy to fix but traction rolling is a big problem. Its one of those that get progressively worse as a race progresses.
Originally posted by InitialD
Ummm... I find that once your car setting is correct, using a shorter wheelbase makes the car turn much easier without the rear swinging out. You can see that the car does not need to take a lot of effort to turn.
Ummm... I find that once your car setting is correct, using a shorter wheelbase makes the car turn much easier without the rear swinging out. You can see that the car does not need to take a lot of effort to turn.
100% agree ... 
Just for your info, the 705 has a shorter wheelbase than the stock 710 !



