Serpent 710
04-27-2004, 10:20 AM
#9016
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
It'll be a while, don't seem to have time these days.
Maybe I'll let it go 1st May, otherwise it'll never be on-line!
Once on-line I can go back to rebuilding my tired 710~
It'll be a while, don't seem to have time these days.
Maybe I'll let it go 1st May, otherwise it'll never be on-line!
Once on-line I can go back to rebuilding my tired 710~
I had just rebuilt them, so I'm not sure why they should keep going off. I setup the tweak perfectly last night and then tonight I tried the tweak again and it was off 
04-27-2004, 10:27 AM
#9017
Originally posted by markp27
Trying to setup my 705 at the moment - doing the tweak and everytime I set the front correctly, the back goes out and vice-versa......it must be the shocks I had just rebuilt them, so I'm not sure why they should keep going off. I setup the tweak perfectly last night and then tonight I tried the tweak again and it was off
Trying to setup my 705 at the moment - doing the tweak and everytime I set the front correctly, the back goes out and vice-versa......it must be the shocks
I had just rebuilt them, so I'm not sure why they should keep going off. I setup the tweak perfectly last night and then tonight I tried the tweak again and it was off
Last edited by Sow&Steady; 04-27-2004 at 10:35 AM.
04-27-2004, 11:25 AM
#9018
Mark (or others), may be you can help......I thought I saw someone posted the picture about how to mod the front shock top pivot ball joint area that will solve the broken shaft problem, by cutting the inside face of the cup by 1mm or so....
Can someone bring that picture back or show me the page of that picture.... THANKS...
Can someone bring that picture back or show me the page of that picture.... THANKS...
04-27-2004, 11:29 AM
#9019
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Mark (or others), may be you can help......I thought I saw someone posted the picture about how to mod the front shock top pivot ball joint area that will solve the broken shaft problem, by cutting the inside face of the cup by 1mm or so....
Can someone bring that picture back or show me the page of that picture.... THANKS...
Mark (or others), may be you can help......I thought I saw someone posted the picture about how to mod the front shock top pivot ball joint area that will solve the broken shaft problem, by cutting the inside face of the cup by 1mm or so....
Can someone bring that picture back or show me the page of that picture.... THANKS...
04-27-2004, 12:02 PM
#9020
Tech Adept
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Which Motor
Originally posted by InitialD
Ummm, that's a sensitive issue ! More like % nitro at work.
Anyway, I think Rene C gave a report on the Pre-Worlds at Brazil. He mentioned that the engines used by the Japanese (assuming those were RR12L3 Kondo ones) were around the same as what they had.
Ummm, that's a sensitive issue !
More like % nitro at work.Anyway, I think Rene C gave a report on the Pre-Worlds at Brazil. He mentioned that the engines used by the Japanese (assuming those were RR12L3 Kondo ones) were around the same as what they had.
Novamega SX12 Turbo (Michael Salven Modified)
Novamega SX12 turbo nitro engine.
#MEG2105MCP
Or should i go with the regular turbo engine.
thanks
04-27-2004, 12:15 PM
#9021
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Which Motor
Originally posted by Wap
Ini D. is this motor legal
Novamega SX12 Turbo (Michael Salven Modified)
Novamega SX12 turbo nitro engine.
#MEG2105MCP
Or should i go with the regular turbo engine.
thanks
Ini D. is this motor legal
Novamega SX12 Turbo (Michael Salven Modified)
Novamega SX12 turbo nitro engine.
#MEG2105MCP
Or should i go with the regular turbo engine.
thanks
I believe NovaMega has the latest which is the 2106. I think you would be better of going with this one as it is based on the later Novarossi NS12 and RB V12 engine design.
http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=3187
Also, I believe Mark bought this engine too. Pipe combination is also crucial. Most would use the TP06 EFRA (2170) or the Novarossi 52606 EFRA pipe for best compromise on overall powerband.
04-27-2004, 12:18 PM
#9022
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Which Motor
Originally posted by InitialD
I believe NovaMega has the latest which is the 2106. I think you would be better of going with this one as it is based on the later Novarossi NS12 and RB V12 engine design.
http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=3187
I believe NovaMega has the latest which is the 2106. I think you would be better of going with this one as it is based on the later Novarossi NS12 and RB V12 engine design.
http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=3187
That is the engine that I have... haven't run it yet.
I heard that there is already an MS version of the 2106 in the works.
04-27-2004, 12:24 PM
#9023
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Which Motor
Originally posted by GlennCauley
I heard that there is already an MS version of the 2106 in the works.
I heard that there is already an MS version of the 2106 in the works.
And yes, during the lucky draw at the end of the race, Michael gave away a new prototype engine complete with the TP06 pipe and Centax 3 clutch !
*(%#&(*$^
04-27-2004, 12:31 PM
#9024
Originally posted by Eddie M
This is what you are looking for http://www.daltonshop.com/tips_tricks.htm
This is what you are looking for http://www.daltonshop.com/tips_tricks.htm
04-27-2004, 01:01 PM
#9025
Tech Adept
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Which Motor
Originally posted by InitialD
I just went over to look at the mytsn website. It says that the 2105MCP and the 2105TMS is already discontinued. But if you can get it, both should be legal.
I believe NovaMega has the latest which is the 2106. I think you would be better of going with this one as it is based on the later Novarossi NS12 and RB V12 engine design.
http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=3187
Also, I believe Mark bought this engine too. Pipe combination is also crucial. Most would use the TP06 EFRA (2170) or the Novarossi 52606 EFRA pipe for best compromise on overall powerband.
I just went over to look at the mytsn website. It says that the 2105MCP and the 2105TMS is already discontinued. But if you can get it, both should be legal.
I believe NovaMega has the latest which is the 2106. I think you would be better of going with this one as it is based on the later Novarossi NS12 and RB V12 engine design.
http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=3187
Also, I believe Mark bought this engine too. Pipe combination is also crucial. Most would use the TP06 EFRA (2170) or the Novarossi 52606 EFRA pipe for best compromise on overall powerband.
thanks
04-27-2004, 01:19 PM
#9026
hi guys
im looking for a good 3port motor that is roar legal, what do you suggest i get? thanks
04-27-2004, 01:50 PM
#9027
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
I know the feeling Mark but I'm assuming that you're already familiar with the "rest one end on solid block" trick. Hence, the only possible cause for this change here is that your shocks may have bled some pressure overnight and hence the shift in tweak.
I know the feeling Mark but I'm assuming that you're already familiar with the "rest one end on solid block" trick. Hence, the only possible cause for this change here is that your shocks may have bled some pressure overnight and hence the shift in tweak.
I give up well, I'll just have to go with this old 710 thing
04-27-2004, 01:52 PM
#9028
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Which Motor
Originally posted by InitialD
Also, I believe Mark bought this engine too. Pipe combination is also crucial. Most would use the TP06 EFRA (2170) or the Novarossi 52606 EFRA pipe for best compromise on overall powerband.
Also, I believe Mark bought this engine too. Pipe combination is also crucial. Most would use the TP06 EFRA (2170) or the Novarossi 52606 EFRA pipe for best compromise on overall powerband.
04-27-2004, 02:42 PM
#9029
Re: Re: Re: Engine break-in article in recent RC magazine
Originally posted by GlennCauley
Hi BaxterC,
There are a lot of different opinions as to how to properly break in an engine... almost as many opinions as there are people you ask!
I have tried the slow break-in, idle-through-tanks method, and it resulted in slow engines. I have tried the "break it in the way you will race it" method, and it resulted in very strong, fast engines.
Here is a very good posting about engine break-in:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...WOT#post811370
Idling a new engine through a tank or two is useless and does nothing to break it in. In fact, it is very damaging to the engine since it results in premature piston/sleeve wear because the engine does not get up to operating temperature.
Hope this helps.
Hi BaxterC,
There are a lot of different opinions as to how to properly break in an engine... almost as many opinions as there are people you ask!
I have tried the slow break-in, idle-through-tanks method, and it resulted in slow engines. I have tried the "break it in the way you will race it" method, and it resulted in very strong, fast engines.
Here is a very good posting about engine break-in:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...WOT#post811370
Idling a new engine through a tank or two is useless and does nothing to break it in. In fact, it is very damaging to the engine since it results in premature piston/sleeve wear because the engine does not get up to operating temperature.
Hope this helps.
04-27-2004, 03:01 PM
#9030
Re: hi guys
Originally posted by Serpent Nut!
im looking for a good 3port motor that is roar legal, what do you suggest i get? thanks
im looking for a good 3port motor that is roar legal, what do you suggest i get? thanks
Or JP, or Nova MAX....Rody Mod V12....etc