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Old 04-15-2004, 05:31 PM   #8266
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pmr you can use any 12 rear motor and for the pipe rd logics turbo outlaw pipe works,just make it sure ur getting the one had a wider header some header hits the side belt,goodluck'
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Old 04-15-2004, 09:13 PM   #8267
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how do you know if an engine is bette for low end or high end. i have a sirio (black head .12 turbo) what is that one best at? what would be a good gear combo and why?

btw, look at my new hop ups for now =)
those are Mtx turnbuckles, but I think i am going to replace them with Xray T1 spring steel ones in the future.
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Old 04-15-2004, 09:14 PM   #8268
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another angle
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Old 04-15-2004, 09:25 PM   #8269
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Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
how do you know if an engine is bette for low end or high end. i have a sirio (black head .12 turbo) what is that one best at? what would be a good gear combo and why?
Sirios are usually better top end and more linear at the bottom end. That's the way it is. How do we know? From testing it out.

For a Sirio engine, I would try to gear down on the 710 to take advantage of the high rpm on the Sirio. If you're using 17T/22T pinions and 60T/56T spurs, try using 16T/21T pinion leaving the stock spurs. Or use 61T/57T spurs leaving the pinions stock for a milder effect.

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
btw, look at my new hop ups for now =)
those are Mtx turnbuckles, but I think i am going to replace them with Xray T1 spring steel ones in the future.
Why did you need to switch the turnbuckles or even change them to the spring steel ones? The stock steel ones are more than good.
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Old 04-15-2004, 09:39 PM   #8270
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Quote:
Why did you need to switch the turnbuckles or even change them to the spring steel ones? The stock steel ones are more than good.
Why is it that changing spurs has a middler effect?, I can go either way to gear down in any situation?


Re: turnbuckles..

i changed to the mugen because they turn much more freely then the stock ones, plus it is hard ti adjust the stock turnbuckle on the side of the exhaust with the hudy wrench, but with the mugen one is much easier and they turn much smoother. I am also using it on the servo because is it actually a little smaller then the serpent stock one and allows me to have the servo horn at 90 degs and the wheels 100% straight. Whereas with the serpent one for my wheels to be straight my servo horn would have to lean to the back of the car a few degrees. =)

um.. the spring steel ones would be just for looks i guess, no gain really other than maybe strenght?


I just realized I need a wider header, becuase mine was rubbing the belt which mixed with exhaust creates a nasty mud-like dirt on that side of the car.. I posted previously why is that my car was so much dirtier; this is why
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Old 04-15-2004, 09:43 PM   #8271
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD

Why did you need to switch the turnbuckles or even change them to the spring steel ones? The stock steel ones are more than good.
Agree..
It is not the turnbuckle yuo should upgrade.
Improve/replace the ball end.
Personally I use Kyosho (KPseries) 5.8 ball end.
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Old 04-15-2004, 10:03 PM   #8272
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Quote:
Originally posted by Marcos.S710
sorry to hear that ! that sucks!
by the way i miss out in a few forims i bought a house andd i have been moving!!
welcome back...we miss u.
I also just bought a house...damn...have to cut on tires expenses then
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Old 04-15-2004, 10:11 PM   #8273
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Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
i changed to the mugen because they turn much more freely then the stock ones, plus it is hard ti adjust the stock turnbuckle on the side of the exhaust with the hudy wrench, but with the mugen one is much easier and they turn much smoother.
For your reff: YOK-ZCTB50 is the perfect Ti tunbkl size for 710.

I belive mugen/standard 710 turnbuckle doesn`t have the whrench spot in the middle of turnbuckle? this would be a hassle to mount the threads on the same direction for both right and left.
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Old 04-15-2004, 10:17 PM   #8274
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Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
Why is it that changing spurs has a middler effect?, I can go either way to gear down in any situation?
I'll give you figures instead to illustrate my point...

With the stock 17T/22T pinions and 60T/56T spurs, you're at 6.62 on the 1st gear and 4.77 on the 2nd gear.

Using 17T/22T pinions and 61T/57T spurs, you're at 6.73 on the 1st gear and 4.86 on the 2nd gear.

If you change the pinions to 16T/21T and 60T/56T spurs, you're at 7.03 on the 1st gear and 5.00 on the 2nd gear.

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
I am also using it on the servo because is it actually a little smaller then the serpent stock one and allows me to have the servo horn at 90 degs and the wheels 100% straight. Whereas with the serpent one for my wheels to be straight my servo horn would have to lean to the back of the car a few degrees. =)
That's actually what all the discussion earlier about cutting the stock linkage and making it shorter from 44.5 mm to 39.5 mm ! I think that's in the FAQ. The Mugen linkage will be shorter than 44.5 mm and that is why you get to have the servo horn at 90 degs and the wheels 100% straight.
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Old 04-15-2004, 10:36 PM   #8275
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Smile Initial D

how did you get those ratios? smaller is faster right?

also,

i didnt read the FAQ, can you link me plz?

Something else I have been doing wrong is using AE 40wt shoch oil rather than serpent. Tomorrow i am going to rebuild using the enclosed 30wt oil and see if I get better handling results. Inital, thank you for patience. now that i am working at my LHS i have come across many things and questions, that i hope you guys can address in regards to this car.

Two things I was asked today that I was not to clear on was:

1) how are the rear roll centers changed? do i change the inserts on the rear plate? or the inner, or both and make them match? The book is not two clear on that.

2) Let me present you the following scenario: I am driving my car with stock setting and tyres. I notice that maybe i need a little steering into corners and that my car's rear end slides a bit on power. - Or that is slides for that matter.

I was told to first before changing to 37 shore or 35 shore tyres to improve the sliding effect, to work on the suspension. first change springs, then shock damping/ oil, maybe some toe, and then tyres.

the reason for this is, as I was told, is to make sure that I am able to drive with the hardest tyre possible to prevent tyre wear. Here in Florida, since the weather is quite hot, 35deg tyres would go pretty quick.

Should i follow this advise? I was thought I should fist find a good set of tyres so that i dont't slide, then work on my springs and oils to fine tune my handling (ie. harder srpings for more responsives ness / softer for more bite) then play with roll centers and toe, ect...

after what this guy told me i am confussed, can you please clarify this?

I am a little embarassed I keep asking so much stuff I should already know.
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Old 04-15-2004, 11:02 PM   #8276
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
For your reff: YOK-ZCTB50 is the perfect Ti tunbkl size for 710.
Pyramid, I could not find that part number. I assume from the part number our turbuckles are 50 mm? All that is listed from the Yokomo website is as below;

ZC-TB16 16mm Ti Turnbuckle
ZC-TB20 20mm Ti Turnbuckle
ZC-TB25 Titanium 25mm Turnbuckle
ZC-TB27 Titanium 27mm Turnbuckle
ZC-TB33 33mm Titanium Turnbuckle
ZC-TB35 35mm Titanium Turnbuckle
ZC-TB36 Titanium 36mm Turnbuckle
ZC-TB39 Titanium 39mm Turnbuckle
ZC-TB42 42mm Ti Turnbuckle
ZC-TB48 48mm Ti Turnbuckle
ZC-TB52 52mm Ti Turnbuckle
ZC-TB55 Titanium 55mm Turnbuckle
ZC-TB58 Titanium 58mm Turnbuckle
ZC-TB60 Titanium 60mm Turnbuckle
ZC-TB62 Titanium 62mm Turnbuckle
ZC-TB65 Titanium 65mm Turnbuckle
ZC-TB67 Titanium 67mm Turnbuckle
ZC-TB90 Titanium 90mm Turnbuckle
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Old 04-15-2004, 11:25 PM   #8277
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Default Where to purchase engine?

Thank you guys for helping out on the engine and pipe subject, now I'm decided to get the Novarossi ns3 or the Novemega 2106. Where can I purchase on eof these engines?
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Old 04-15-2004, 11:27 PM   #8278
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Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
how did you get those ratios? smaller is faster right?
Those ratios are called FDR. Smaller figures means better top speed. Larger figures means better acceleration.

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
i didnt read the FAQ, can you link me plz?
For your convenience, I'll post what I posted here again.

Shortened the steering rod linkage connecting the steering servo to the servo saver. Manual suggest 44.5 mm. Try 39 to 40 mm. You may have to trim the balljoints and cut the rod linkage as well.

I cut the metal (the stock rod linkage) down to 17 mm. Stock lenght of the rod linkage is 23 mm from tip to tip.

As for the plastic, I trimmed the length of the ball cups. The picture attached shows the top one being the original (and uncut) and the bottom one is the one that was trimmed.



This combo gives the total length of the ball cups and rod linkage assembly as 39.5 mm instead of 44.5 mm.

Also, I made the servo horn on the steering servo at 90 degrees to the servo linkage instead of 90 degrees to the servo casing at neutral.


Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
1) how are the rear roll centers changed? do i change the inserts on the rear plate? or the inner, or both and make them match? The book is not two clear on that.
Yes, you need to turn those inserts and match them inside and on the rear plate.

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
2) Let me present you the following scenario: I am driving my car with stock setting and tyres. I notice that maybe i need a little steering into corners and that my car's rear end slides a bit on power. - Or that is slides for that matter.
What is your setup? Can you list it out? Copy out from the mytsn setup and change the numbers accordingly from your car.

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
the reason for this is, as I was told, is to make sure that I am able to drive with the hardest tyre possible to prevent tyre wear. Here in Florida, since the weather is quite hot, 35deg tyres would go pretty quick.
I would think if it's a treated permanent track, try 40 shore all around first. Then work on your car setup. That way, you will not run very far off.

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
Should i follow this advise? I was thought I should fist find a good set of tyres so that i dont't slide, then work on my springs and oils to fine tune my handling (ie. harder srpings for more responsives ness / softer for more bite) then play with roll centers and toe, ect...
What tires are you currently using? Like what I mentioned earlier, use 40 shore front and rear and do up the shocks back again. If possible go back to stock setting and slowly (one thing at a time) work your setup from there. Use the setup book given to follow what needs to be changed if you are experiencing some problems.

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
I am a little embarassed I keep asking so much stuff I should already know.
No worries. Everybody starts right from the begginning.
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Old 04-15-2004, 11:42 PM   #8279
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Default 4mm ceramic balls

I just bought some to give it a try. I anyone is interested they can be checked out here :

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=3188173817&rd
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Old 04-15-2004, 11:45 PM   #8280
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Well it stopped raining today so I rushed home so that I could start breaking in my NS12S3 in my 710. I rushed and grabbed all my things and headed outside. Pre heat engine to 240 degrees turn on M8 and crank engine over on start box. Fires right up. But stupid me in my panic to start breaking it in forgot to turn on the power on my 710!!! Engine fires right up and within a split second screams to the moon!! The throttle was wide open! So I grabbed the car and put the exaust on my shoe to kill the engine. It probably was screaming for about 5 seconds. What a way to begin the life of your new engine!
I let it cool down, turned on the reciever and fired it up again. Ran a couple of tanks through the engine letting the engine cool down between tanks. I don't think I caused any serious damage as the piston still gets jammed up at the top of stroke if the engine is any cooler than 180. A good idea would probably be to change the rod after I'm down completely breaking in the engine and have run about a gallon of fuel through it.
Are the .12 Novarossi connecting rods(Ibelieve they only sell one?) at RC-Mushroom the same rod used in the NS12S3?
Running the car the around my driveway fairly slowly it seemed to respond quite well even with the stock tires and dirty driveway(got one pebble stuck between the rear belt and pulley) One thing I noticed was that if I slammed on the breaks the car would do a complete 180. I'm pretty sure the car isn't tweaked?? I followed the steps in the faq page. Then setup the car on my Hudy Station.
Do me favour and just go over the tweak thing with me on more time. What I'm looking for is if I lift the car from the center of the chassis I'm looking to see if one wheel lifts off the ground before the other, correct? If so, both front and back lift equally on my car?? Could it be anything else?
I think I better go through my car and check the clutch and such after reving the engine that hard having to keep the car from moving by holding it down onto the ground and closing the exaust off with my foot. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks. Just when I thought I wouldn't make a stupid rookie mistake like that I have never done that with all the other RC vehicles I've had and I had to go and do it my pride and joy! Well, all I have to say is if this engine craps out prematurely I'm going to go and by myself a Novamaxx or something rank like that.

Last edited by SupermaxxRich; 04-15-2004 at 11:52 PM.
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