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Originally Posted by teknorc
(Post 13130834)
They do make electric screwdrivers...
And MIP has some sweet bits. Go slow so you don't strip anything and save your wrists :). |
Yes the electric drivers are truly a wrist saver. Its still best to thread the screw almost all the way in, then hand tighten it for the last few turns.
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I have a drill with a clutch. I set it on 4 and it is perfect every time, just the right amount of torque. I have yet to strip anything in 5 years and 10+ cars.
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Small advice for tekno guys about v2 radio tray (if any planned): please make batt cover with small clips like body clips for 1/10 and smaller scale instead of screws. And make room/holes for electic switches like Ko Propo.
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Originally Posted by vandalzzz
(Post 13134113)
Small advice for tekno guys about v2 radio tray (if any planned): please make batt cover with small clips like body clips for 1/10 and smaller scale instead of screws. And make room/holes for electic switches like Ko Propo.
As for switch mount, I to run the Ko V2 switch, and used the transponder mount location for my switch and then used double sided tape to mount the transponder to the side of my battery box. Nice and clean! Note: you'll make a small vertical cut in the side of the RX tray to route the transponder wires. |
Originally Posted by vandalzzz
(Post 13134113)
Small advice for tekno guys about v2 radio tray (if any planned): please make batt cover with small clips like body clips for 1/10 and smaller scale instead of screws. And make room/holes for electic switches like Ko Propo.
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FWIW, I like screws better
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Just uploaded more build pics to DB album
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Originally Posted by wallride14
(Post 13126947)
Took my NB48 out for her maiden voyage yesterday at Leisure Hours. After playing with some springs, camber links and tires throughout qualifying, I started second in the Bmain. Won it. Started 11th in the A and drove it up to third. If the race would have been 28 minutes instead of 30 I would have finished there, but my receiver pack died on me at the very end. Very pleased with the buggy! I like the way this car drives even better than my EB48 (which I love). This buggy was well worth the wait! Thanks Tekno!
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Originally Posted by vandalzzz
(Post 13134113)
Small advice for tekno guys about v2 radio tray (if any planned): please make batt cover with small clips like body clips for 1/10 and smaller scale instead of screws. And make room/holes for electic switches like Ko Propo.
roomy and well laid out, and with a 2600mah LiPo we dont have to get in there very often. Big, roomy and well laid out is a fair trade for lack of a quick release battery box lid. |
Maybe screws better, but i like the way how RX box is made on my RC8.2e and can't imagine how hard gonna be crash to eject batt out of such box.
-- Question for those who've already built: is it possible to open batt lid and remove RX batt without removing and/or relocating servo arm on st.servo? |
Originally Posted by vandalzzz
(Post 13136908)
Maybe screws better, but i like the way how RX box is made on my RC8.2e and can't imagine how hard gonna be crash to eject batt out of such box.
-- Question for those who've already built: is it possible to open batt lid and remove RX batt without removing and/or relocating servo arm on st.servo? |
...........
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Originally Posted by vandalzzz
(Post 13136908)
Maybe screws better, but i like the way how RX box is made on my RC8.2e and can't imagine how hard gonna be crash to eject batt out of such box.
-- Question for those who've already built: is it possible to open batt lid and remove RX batt without removing and/or relocating servo arm on st.servo? screws like the Tekno. Its not a matter of how hard you crash more about things coming loose and falling off. Yes you can pull the battery without removing the servo arm. You can try this guy and he might make you an rx cover with the Ko-propo switch mount. http://www.shapeways.com/model/10871...&materialId=25 |
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