She's so beautiful...:blush:

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1396010029

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1396010267

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/...psa2f3e25a.jpg

http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1396010367


Question - What flywheel wrench are people using with the Tekno flywheel/clutch?

I don't use one. get a good channel lock pliers.

This is the only tool I have found for a 4 shoe clutch. I am not sure it works on the Tekno clutch.
http://rcrenew.com/tools.html

I just use channel lock pliers on the 4 shoes. Your flywheel will have marks on it after you run a few times anyway.

That is sweet nice ride!

yeah nice looking machine you got there mate

I've almost finished my build (2 bags left), but i've moet some issue: ProTek starter box' rubber wheel can't reach flywheel with brackets on (but can w/o brackets). Here is fullsize pic, gap is clearly visible (it's about 2-3mm). I've already written to Amain support, but decided to ask here, maybe i'm missing something and doing some things wrong? Clutch system is stock one.

Nah ur not missing anything, the engine sits forward and central more than most other buggies. I made some customs stops for my hudy starter box.

But my problem is not about limited variations of pins&brackets, i am able to set up those things right enough to locate chassis in proper position.
Finally i've removed only rear bracket and was able to touch wheel by wheel pressing hard enough to develop chassis flex. Maybe i need to press some more to make things work with both brackets? How hard it meant to be pressed in 'normal' conditions?

I see what you are saying now, I don't have that problem on the hudy box because the locating pins sit straight on the top of the starter box case, as does the chassis of the buggy, there's no 'brackets' also sitting under the chassis.
It's always best to push down on the engine to reach the starter wheel, but I don't have to flex the chassis at all to reach it, normally. Maybe those who use the Ofna box can help you out more, as they also have the sliding brackets.

Lets get this figured out so you can go burn some nitro:nod:

Here is my car on the OFNA box. Notice you can only see one side of the wheel
due to wear.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...3-img-0347.jpg

Here is the box without the car. Again notice the wear on the wheel. It still
reaches the flywheel like this.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...4-img-0351.jpg

Here is one with the box in the down position.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...5-img-0352.jpg

And here are a couple of the flywheel.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...z-img-0355.jpg

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...6-img-0356.jpg

Thanks for pics. It's not so obvious on that photos: does your wheels hit each other only with top plate on st.box in lower position without flex in chassis? Or you need to push hard not only to engage st.box but to reach rubber wheel with flywheel making chassis flex?

So i've measured everything involved:
- Clearance between chassis line and flywheel: 3.2mm
- Highest point of rubber wheel (from top plate' line): 5.5mm
- Thickness of the bracket: 5mm
Basic math tells that there is more than 2.5mm gap between wheels.

No you should not have to push down that hard. My guess is that your not
centered above the wheel. Pull the motor. Mark the wheel on the starter box
and then turn the wheel until the mark is at the very top. That mark should
be right in the center of the flywheel hole in the chassis. Move the pegs until
the starter box wheel is not only centered front to rear but also left to right.
Notice how the car is not centered on the box.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...img-0357-1.jpg

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...img-0359-1.png

I you have the wheel right dead center in the flywheel hole and it still wont
reach your flywheel you can try a couple of things.
First look inside and make sure nothing is caught in the spring/switch
assembly keeping it from collapsing all the way. If thats all good and you
have the lid compressing as far as possible the next step would be to try
shimming the motor plate up , between the bottom of the box and motor
bracket. A couple millimeters is all you should need.

HMM mine comes up about 8.5mm at full compression. I would give Amain a call
and see if they have any ideas. Or you can shim it up.

I've already written to their support, let's see how they can handle this issue. My previous experience with their customer support center was very good, hope they gonna handle current case well, esp. with fact that ProTek RC is their own brand.
Anyway i don't think that total uptravel of their starter box (5.5 - 5.0 = 0.5mm) is acceptable for nitro cars. There is no shims in kit, but desc. stated about '95% ready - fit brackets and go'. Seems i've got sort of PITA...