R/C Tech Forums

R/C Tech Forums (https://www.rctech.net/forum/)
-   Nitro Off-Road (https://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-off-road-130/)
-   -   Tekno NB48 (https://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-off-road/718521-tekno-nb48.html)

JsK 07-21-2014 08:08 PM


Originally Posted by underway (Post 13414431)
No need to scuff rims anymore. Clean bead with simple green. Proline glue +tire jig and rubberbands= awesomeness

I always used alcohol until I tried simple green. Works way better. Most of the bad joints I see now on peoples cars are not mold release or dirt but the powder from closed cell foams. It gets in the bead area when you pull them over the rim. Best thing is to blow the foams off with air before you assemble them. If you don't have access to air put everything together and clean the bead/tire with simple green and let it dry.

Graham11 07-21-2014 09:40 PM

I've noticed the proline x compound come unglued a lot and I use simple green and a jig

Hoese37 07-22-2014 04:54 PM

What jig are you guys using?

underway 07-22-2014 05:04 PM

http://www.vpprousa.com/474/33/strik...ing-jig-detail

Tire Jig

Stirex 07-22-2014 05:15 PM


Originally Posted by underway (Post 13418136)

Awesome tool... Things I have noticed while using it:

-watch the video :)
-Use thinner CA
-Keep the glue off the jig lol

Hoese37 07-22-2014 05:35 PM

Just don't use the jig. Everyone I've seen use it just says they have gluing consistency problems. Hand gluing with bands is still the best method.

kman16jr 07-22-2014 05:51 PM

The tire jig is nice as long as you use thin glue like bsi or losi thin as it finds it way into the channel,aka glue or bsi medium or loctite professional is best when gluing by hand,i also glue aka's by hand because the dont dont return to that perfect shape after you release the jig. All the other brands work better in the jig because the side wall is flush with wheel.

Graham11 07-22-2014 05:56 PM

Vp pro tire jig works great for me w none of those issues

underway 07-22-2014 06:09 PM


Originally Posted by Hoese37 (Post 13418198)
Just don't use the jig. Everyone I've seen use it just says they have gluing consistency problems. Hand gluing with bands is still the best method.

Simply not true from my experiences. I've been using it since it came out. best invention in a long time in RC. 2nd only to the NB48 radiotray. (<--- attempt to put the thread back on the NB48)

Stirex 07-22-2014 07:18 PM


Originally Posted by underway (Post 13418284)
Simply not true from my experiences. I've been using it since it came out. best invention in a long time in RC. 2nd only to the NB48 radiotray. (<--- attempt to put the thread back on the NB48)

HEY!!! I see what you did there.... lol

eddie10 07-23-2014 07:51 PM

Can anyone tell me what the next 2 piston sizes have more pack than the tekno 1.3 by 8.

teknorc 07-23-2014 08:35 PM


Originally Posted by eddie10 (Post 13421005)
Can anyone tell me what the next 2 piston sizes have more pack than the tekno 1.3 by 8.

The 10x1.1 will have more pack, but before you get those try putting the shocks on the outside hole in the arm and lowering your spring by one rate and your oil by 50cst (2.5-5wt). We have found that the outside hole is better for most conditions as the piston is moving faster for better suspension.

We are modifying pistons to make 6x1.5mm pistons and they are working very well so far. Try the following setup, it has been very consistent everywhere we've raced lately.

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...h_med_bite.pdf

BigInJapan 07-23-2014 10:11 PM


Originally Posted by teknorc (Post 13421112)
The 10x1.1 will have more pack, but before you get those try putting the shocks on the outside hole in the arm and lowering your spring by one rate and your oil by 50cst (2.5-5wt). We have found that the outside hole is better for most conditions as the piston is moving faster for better suspension.

We are modifying pistons to make 6x1.5mm pistons and they are working very well so far. Try the following setup, it has been very consistent everywhere we've raced lately.

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...h_med_bite.pdf

Is the lower roll centre effect of 5013c with the stock kit rear front hinge pin? Or is it a new set RF + RR

ZERTA RACING 07-23-2014 10:25 PM


Originally Posted by BigInJapan (Post 13421236)
Is the lower roll centre effect of 5013c with the stock kit rear front hinge pin? Or is it a new set RF + RR

The TRK5013C uses the stock rear front hinge pin holder. The TKR5013C comes with the rear rear hinge pin holder only.

What is in the product picture is all that is included with TKR5016C
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5013c...d-ebnbetntsct/

-Thomas

JsK 07-23-2014 11:57 PM


Originally Posted by teknorc (Post 13421112)
The 10x1.1 will have more pack, but before you get those try putting the shocks on the outside hole in the arm and lowering your spring by one rate and your oil by 50cst (2.5-5wt). We have found that the outside hole is better for most conditions as the piston is moving faster for better suspension.

We are modifying pistons to make 6x1.5mm pistons and they are working very well so far. Try the following setup, it has been very consistent everywhere we've raced lately.

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...h_med_bite.pdf

Thanks for bringing out great new products like that Danny. Have you tried
the LRC plate on the truggy? And are there any plans for a aluminum throttle
horn?


All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:54 PM.

Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.