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I will trade for a nice tekno nb http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ugen-mbx7.html
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Originally Posted by JsK
(Post 13422390)
Yes Danny you could combine this with the LRC insets but it gives a ton of anti squat at that point without a lower anti squat plate. A bunch of anti squat along with the LRC is usually counterproductive . At least it was on the AE car. Maybe the tekno would react better. For people planning on using this it also changes your anti squat so if you have a setting you like you will need to drop it one dot along with the plate. |
Originally Posted by Casketman
(Post 13425514)
Has anyone used the Aluminum rear drive shaft? I just replaced my twice bent stock drive shaft so I wonder if the aluminum one is any better.
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Originally Posted by Cappy
(Post 13428225)
Id like to know as well. Both Fr/Rr are bent on mine.. not bad just enough to make the breaks slop around.. Now i cant imagine any kind of aluminum being a cure for bent drive shafts since alum is a softer metal...
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Originally Posted by JsK
(Post 13422390)
Yes Danny you could combine this with the LRC insets but it gives a ton of anti squat at that point without a lower anti squat plate. A bunch of anti squat along with the LRC is usually counterproductive . At least it was on the AE car. Maybe the tekno would react better.
PS. We have been trying to get more setups online for the NB48. We recently posted one of Danny's setups that has a new shock setup as well as the LRC. Please take a look. Buggy reacts very well on copy/rutted tracks. http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...h_med_bite.pdf |
Originally Posted by Cappy
(Post 13428225)
Id like to know as well. Both Fr/Rr are bent on mine.. not bad just enough to make the breaks slop around.. Now i cant imagine any kind of aluminum being a cure for bent drive shafts since alum is a softer metal...
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JSK, We recommend running the anti squat setting with single dot inserts down when using the LRC toe plate. back to 1 deg. I personally have never bent an aluminum front or rear center drive shaft. I only have to replace the drive shafts when the pins wear. |
Originally Posted by MattDub
(Post 13428249)
I personally have never bent an aluminum front or rear center drive shaft. I only have to replace the drive shafts when the pins wear.
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finally found time this weekend to get my car al ready to hit the track. It has the aluminum shafts in it and they are pretty beefy, don't see them bending but the test day is Tuesday so we will find out then! I will be heading to former nationals track LCRC Raceway and I cant wait!
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They do seem to be twice as thick as the stock drive shaft.
No clue what caused it for me honestly. Both braces are in and tight. Maybe because I have the engine in the rear? |
I have bent the steel shaft also with all bracing in, just one of those things. i now run the alu ones, they are beefy looking, but I doubt they would be any stronger than the steel. in saying that, i havent bent one since.
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When I first got the buggy I bent both a stock and aluminum one. w the stock you can at least bend back if you are in a jam but the aluminum once its bent its trash cus it crimps. Ever since changing to running rear engine with the right side rear brace I havent had any issues with bent shafts. And for whoever bent a front shaft, how did you do that, theres so much bracing in the front?
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I have not bent any of the stock drive shafts on my NB or NT. I must be lucky! :)
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Originally Posted by vandalzzz
(Post 13428667)
Isn't cheaper to replace pins only instead of whole driveshafts?
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Originally Posted by MattDub
(Post 13430037)
Only recommend replacing pins in an emergency situation when a replacement drive shaft isn't available. Drive shafts aren't that expensive and don't want the possibility of the pin to loosen and fall out due to replacement.
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