Just removed the engine to start cleaning and the screw didnt back out of the clutch bell, the front bearing disintegrated. Was a new Protek that installed just before the main so it only had a max of 15 minutes on it (warm up, 10 min main, and the four laps I ran in the B after the bump).

I always used a lock washer also on the screw.

On the one that holds the clutch bell on?

When I first got my nb48 I was eating up protek and stock bearings all the time but found out it was caused by improper shimming for me so may want to check that out, I have no idea your experience level with nitro so excuse me if I'm stating the obvious.

Another good upgrade is the TKO clutch bearings, they last forever and get the thrust washers too.

Yup. Just another piece of mind. When I ran nitro I used them on the engine mounts and didn't really need lock tite.

Boca Ceramics are holding up pretty well also. :nod:

Always good to have ideas regardless. I left a shims worth of play on it. I could have added one more without any binding while cold but it may have tightened up once it heated up so I decided to omit one of them. I can try 2 this time around and see how it holds up I suppose.

Looks like the flywheel may not have seated on the collet square, either that or the lip on the rear of the flywheel is perfectly flat. I'll grab another collet and re-seat to make sure.

Dear TeknoRC, could you please perform a sort of quality check of your nitro kit pins holding clutch shoes? The issue i've met: got brand new MIP Thorp 1.5mm screwdriver and fresh set of clutch hw (incl. pins), and even with just opened pins my screwdriver doesn't seat tight enough, and it seems that pins' hexes gonna strip someday. But your 1.5mm setscrews are pretty good, such issue is only with clutch pins.
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And btw, sometime ago you've mentioned about your own tuning guide. Any ETA on this?

Those clutch pins suck on the Losi setup too. I never reuse them as I stripped one on the Losi years ago. I subsequently switched to the Werks Pro clutch and loved it and plan to do it on this buggy as well.

i had this trouble for the 1st time i used them but none since using Hudy 1.5mm driver and knowing you dont need to really over tighten them mine come in and out easy as

but in saying that i am now useing the long life shoes so i think i will just change whole clutch over by the time these shoes wear out :lol: :lol: :lol:

Do they have 34mm flywheels?

This is the nature of such small button heads(mip are sometimes a lil big when new too, try another brand), losi are the exact same, But I also think people try to tighten them to much and strip them out, they don't need to be cranked down, that said I consider everything in a clutch as wear items and the pins are cheap. I suggest checking out the losi clutch rebuild kit, has a bunch of parts for a great price.

http://www.amain.com/Losi-8IGHT-T-Cl...ice-Box/p28018

I raced my NB48 for the 2nd time this weekend and started off with Mo Denton's setup and made a few minor changes (1mm up in ride height front and rear, a little more toe out up front and 1 o-ring on each shock shaft to limit up-travel) and the car felt REALLY good. It had a lot of steering on-power and off-power and it was very easy to drive! I managed to put over a lap on the whole field during the 15 minute main and claim the win!!

NICE!!!!:nod:

Mo Denton... looking at your setup and have a question is the front kickup at 11.5 two dots down or at 10.5 two dots up? It would be nice if Tekno would fix this in the setup sheet. Also are you using the black 10 hole pistons that came with the kit which measure 1.25mm or the machined ones? Thanks much.