Yes, the flywheel fits fine but a normal bell will not reach far enough forward to properly engage the spur gear.
There are ways to move the bell forward but its prob easiest to just use the kit bell and bearings. Make sure you
degrease the large inner bearing since there is alot of grease in it. Depending on how you shim it you may need to
take a small amount off the back of the bell, See Step R-3 notes in the manual.

Are you new to the BuKu?

Thanks for the tips. Yes, new to Buku..actually new to everything nitro! Wish me luck..ill need it.

Think im going to sell my stuff just to build more Teknos for myself. They are fun to build.;)

Seeing I am about to buy one of these cars. Any tips and tricks for this car?
Im already planning a buku clutch set up or a serpent steel flywheel.

I would suggest you build it with the stock clutch until you get the hang of things.
The aluminum shoes are alot more forgiving. BuKu's are an great
clutch but they can be a bit overwhelming with all the adjustment if this is
your first nitro. Once you have a good solid tune on your motor and decide
to try the BuKu you will just need to get another Tekno bell.

Just run the stock clutch. It works fine, just make sure you have someone help
you seat the shoes. Other than a 4mm arm reamer and making sure you get ALL
the excess plastic off the shock cartridge parts where they come off the tree
its a pretty easy kit to build.

I would also suggest that you change step T-2 in the manual a bit. Instead of
waiting until then to put the TKR1201 locknut in the steering I would do it back
in step M-2 before you bolt the steering to the chassis. Its a pain to get that
in there when its all assembled.

Got it,thanks!

Use good tools. I've heard from local tekno owners that looong M3x40 screws (holding pieces of bulkheads together) got stripped with cheap 2mm wrenches very fast.

yes they do with cheap tools but a good hudy 2mm driver has no problems at all even removing stripped screw heads :nod: :nod: :nod:


apart from that enjoy the build :p

The shock bushing is designed to be a tight fit in the shock cap. It will move on the standoff however and be perfect if you simply back off the flanged nut 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

It doesn't matter what direction you put it in. Hope this helps.

They do make electric screwdrivers...

And MIP has some sweet bits. Go slow so you don't strip anything and save your wrists :).

+1 i have those bits and love them.

Thanks for shock bushing advice.

I have Dremel Driver, but prefer make 1st build by hands, to feel every thread etc etc =)
For metric screws there is Associated bits set, only five bits for 25 bucks but how useful this kit is: very good 1.5mm bit, and both regular and ball end 2mm and 2.5mm bits. Very tight fit to screws, maybe it won't last as long as Hudy stuff, but for that price it worth every cent.

Assembly
 

I use a tube of chapstick when building a new kit. Just a small dab on the screws that go into plastic. It helps a ton.

I use black grease from kit packaging for same purposes.
Also it's very important to not overheat screws due to fast rotating speed during first threading in.