http://youtu.be/jcSjDMWvpOM this is me running my NB48 two weeks ago at king hobbies in Valparaiso,IN. this is box setup in gonna use mo's setup next time and see how I like it

That's also my 3 1/2 year old flipping the cars lol

The Nightfox body arrived and it actually fits quite well. Next time around, I'll leave about 1/2" more material in front of the nose cut line and notch the raised parts for the shock tower mounts in hopes of keeping the body from cracking and maybe give it a softer, pointed shape vice the blunt end it has now. The hole for the engine is about 1/2" further forward than the cut lines (in the forward position). The rest is pretty straight forward.

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps046fdc0a.jpg

The top of this body sits very low compared to the stock body. I'm going to remove the Losi tank pull because I dont want it getting snagged on anything (it can come out of the body by about 1" if upside down).

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps29fa0191.jpg

The fuel lines are very tight at the front of the buggy and the forward most retainer is almost touching the body at rest. Past that, it opens up pretty well and provides at least as much room as the stock body. There seems to be ample room for the throttle linkage and the header has plenty of room as well.

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...psb594b122.jpg

only have this pic handy and dont have any up close pics like you but I run that same body and the fuel clips do rub the body so I suggest some shoegoo in that spot to save ur paint and if you dont set it properly the body can pinch the fuels lines up against the edges of the tank near the ackerman. Make sure you check this because it may cause tuning issues and then youll take of the body to check it and the engine will run perfect again until you put the body back on.

The linkage only hits the body if you dont trim off the end of the throttle linkage. But over all the body does fit very well and I love the look of it.

As for the lid pull, I use the DE racing tank pulls, much better than the losi loop ones, and I dont know if they have your beloved orange but blue or yellow they have and will still match the paint.

http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/index.php?cPath=247_248

Orange is only for the inside, yellow and blue are used on the outside to compliment the body so the yellow pulls are perfect :) I've never tried shoe-goo on the inside of the body, I always apply stickers to the spots that I think will get warn (or the soft side of adhesive backed velcro). My fuel lines are clear from everything, guess my "odd" routing was good for something.

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps073de6f6.jpg

Hello all. Question for you guys, and my apologies if this has been covered already...
I am currently running Mo's set up, which works great, so thanks Mo! My question is; I am running the losi steel flywheel with a vented Serpent clutch bell and the gear on the bell doesn't quite extend far enough to mate perfectly with the spur gear. Is this something I can shim further with a different collet? It's very close to being good, but I'd like it to be as good as the stock bell was if possible. If it makes a difference, I am running a Werks B5, with the Werks collet.
This is my first ever nitro vehicle and first ever build etc, and I couldn't be happier with everthing this NB48 has to offer. Been a great experience for sure and well done Tekno all around!

You need to do shim the entire clutch out farther. So before you even put the collet and flywheel on, you need to add more shims on the crank before the collet. This will bring the bell out further, also with the vented bell you want to make sure the shoes are centered on the inside of usable portion of the bell and not extending beyond the bottom edge or the edges of the "vent" in the bell. To center the serpent bell on the shoes, use more shims between the flywheel nut and the internal ball bearing. Since you are doing all of this, you may need to get smaller "crank shaft extender" shims so you can still get the necessary 2-3mm of play.

Thank you for the info! Don't know why I didn't think to put shims on before the collet as I tried everything else. As far as centering the shoes on the usable portion of the bell, it looks like I'm good there. I actually ran it this weekend with no issues at all, but I do want to shim the bell properly, so thanks again for the advice :)

The Werks collets are pretty long, I'm surprised it doesnt line up with that alone.

Graham, you really run 2-3mm of end play?

[QUOTE=madweazl;13580483]The Werks collets are pretty long, I'm surprised it doesnt line up with that alone.

It's pretty close. The end of the bell and the spur are almost flush with each other, but I'd like the spur to be centered on the bell like the stock spur and bell were. Like I said, I did run it this weekend with no issues, but I know it could be better if for nothing else than my piece of mind :D

I never measure it, I just go by feel by yes its about 2mm

The werks collets are long and Im not sure if the tekno/losi flywheels even fit a werks collet, you want to run the collet that comes with the flywheel of choice, when you remove the flywheel you dont want to see that the flywheel was only riding on 1/2 or 3/4 of the collet. Does that make sense?

The end of my bells (hmm, dont read that fast :lol: ) have been flush with the forward end of the spur running Werks engines, medium length collets, and the Losi or Tekno bells. I swapped to a Serpent bell this weekend and it was about a 1/4" short so I used the longer Werks collet. Setup like this (stock flywheel), I was about 3mm short on the crank and didnt have enough of the small shims to make up the difference alone so I had to go back to the Losi style screw and washer to retain the bell and I'm not a fan of that setup. I like using a standard washer with and M3 socket head screw vice the flat heads. To get it centered on the spur would take a lot of of shimming for my setup.

Gonna be interesting to see how the Werks flywheel/clutch is going to line up today.

Having a hard time visualizing your setup and Ive never run a werks engine but if you arent having issues and arent blowing up clutch bearings and dont have uneven wear on the spur/bell teeth then you should be fine.

However, I like to make sure the spur is centered on the bell teeth in case of lateral movement and flex.

That makes complete sense. I did try the collet that came with the Losi flywheel, but it seemed that the Werks collet fit better? I will pull it apart soon and have a look at the collet to make sure the flywheel is riding properly. I can tell you that I ran my first gallon through the buggy with the Werks collet and Tekno flywheel with absolutely no issues at all. Maybe I've been lucky? Also, with this being my first build, first motor break in etc, I have not broken or ruined a single thing on this buggy :tire::tire:

the longer collet may work fine for a while but may be slipping without you knowing it. like you said, just check it next time you do maintenance on your clutch. And I am not at all surprised that you have not broke anything, its a Tekno... otherwise known as the Tanko, or the True Finisher(Sorry JConcepts, you dont deserve the name as much)