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Originally Posted by Graham11
(Post 13608283)
It took me a while but I finally got the stock brakes to work perfectly but I like the idea of trying the fiber rotor.
That said, one thing I have helped a lot of guys with is their brake setup. A lot guys didn't the brake linkage set properly. The two "arms" that connect to the brake linkage have a lot of mechanical throw before the brakes actually engage so to mitigate this issue, you will want to move the collet thats closest to the front of the car a little closer to the rear, if that makes any sense. This way when you hit the brakes, the brakes actually engage, otherwise the first half of the brake travel doesn't actually do anything and your brakes will feel soft. I will try to post pictures later. |
Originally Posted by madweazl
(Post 13608995)
I have mine setup that was as well; fine balance with so much tension on the two springs I have on the braking side and the throttle spring when the servo is at neutral though (always fighting the springs).
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Originally Posted by Mo Denton
(Post 13608186)
also FYI for those that aren't a huge fan of the stock brakes. I saw Matt was testing the fiber brakes from the e buggy options and I put them on the new car I built. have to awesome! :nod:
so if you are looking for a different brake set up you can do it with all tekno parts! |
Originally Posted by Graham11
(Post 13609014)
I dont think I udnerstand what you are saying? Are you saying its hard to find balance?
Did I do any better :lol: Guess a picture is worth a thousand words in this scenario. |
Originally Posted by madweazl
(Post 13609057)
The stock spring on the brake linkage has to be cut when you slide the furthest forward collet toward the rear of the buggy to take up all the slack in the adjustable rod ends (if left perpendicular to the center diff housing, there is about 1/4" or more slack before engagement). Left stock, it puts a lot of pressure on the servo while it's in the neutral position so it's always fighting to stay centered.
Did I do any better :lol: Guess a picture is worth a thousand words in this scenario. Either way I ran my buggy for the first time this weekend. Really liked it. Right away I was turning faster laps than my ebuggy, I like how the nitro rolls more freely. Was just easy to drive. Looking forward to taking it to the Lone Star at Indy in about a month. |
I have the screws completely seated on the pads. I have a 7940 on throttle and while the servo has plenty of power, the constant load is an issue. With some tinkering, you can get the 3 springs (if you're running one on both sides of the brake linkage) to help mitigate the problem.
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Originally Posted by madweazl
(Post 13609628)
I have the screws completely seated on the pads. I have a 7940 on throttle and while the servo has plenty of power, the constant load is an issue. With some tinkering, you can get the 3 springs (if you're running one on both sides of the brake linkage) to help mitigate the problem.
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Hmm, I'll have to investigate this feature and see if it's available on my radio.
Edit: there is a function labeled TH-Acceleration (throttle and brake can be adjusted independently) and it looks like it can be used in a manner as you describe. I'll monkey around with it a little later to see how/if it works. |
Originally Posted by Apco1
(Post 13610338)
So I just figured out that my 4PKS-R can fix this problem. I can set the brake so that when it is engaged it automatically jumps away from neutral to the point where the slack is taken up and the rest of the response from that point is linear so its not like using positive expo. Haven't had a chance to test this out but looks like a really useful feature. For those with a 4pks-r it is explained on page 52 of the manual.
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Love how nice new engines and pipes look. Finish on the new header is pretty bad though :( This pipe is way shorter than my 2013, need a new pipe hanger (gonna try the Xray with the spring/loop on it. Hole in the body for the exhaust is going to be huge now too. This engine pushes the clutch bell considerably further forward so the Serpent bell should be a perfect fit (Losi is a bit long).
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps9e9ff407.jpg |
Looks nice! Go get it dirty.
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Originally Posted by madweazl
(Post 13615701)
Love how nice new engines and pipes look. Finish on the new header is pretty bad though :( This pipe is way shorter than my 2013, need a new pipe hanger (gonna try the Xray with the spring/loop on it. Hole in the body for the exhaust is going to be huge now too. This engine pushes the clutch bell considerably further forward so the Serpent bell should be a perfect fit (Losi is a bit long).
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps9e9ff407.jpg In the picture it looks like the hanger mounting block is in the forward position, I assume you know you can rotate it? |
Tis pointing forward. The stinger on the 2013 was actually forward of the cutout in mud guard so the original hanger was cut very short. This is the wire I picked up.
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Do Losi brakes (disc and calipers) fit on nb48?
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First brass upgrade for NB48 ever! :D
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...028_111226.jpg Too bad stock filter mount has fixed position |
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