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-   -   Tekno NB48 (https://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-off-road/718521-tekno-nb48.html)

vwduud 11-23-2014 09:49 PM


Originally Posted by madweazl (Post 13677154)
Well what did you think?

Nicely constructed aluminum box, rugged starter contact switch and plenty of power from the dual motors on a 4S LiPo. Nice, cheaper alternative.

madweazl 11-23-2014 10:04 PM

Cool. I read another report that they were having trouble getting the wheel to fully contact the flywheel on another buggy without modifications. I went with the Kyosho box and had to drill holes as well but wasnt able to get them evenly offset like you were able to do with this box.

RokleM 11-24-2014 06:56 AM

I did the same, I just drilled and screwed directly into the box top. It has plenty of power, that's for sure.

jjfo80 11-24-2014 06:58 AM

Hey guys and gals,

Just wondering my main gear and clutch bell mesh making a whole heap of noise as tho it's to tight or to loose. But what I am not understanding is when the kit was new there was no noise so it was easy to line up all the time. But now I am confused as to why I can't get the noise to go away but what I have noticed now is when I take the centre diff out and all sits very nicely in the housing, but when it's bolted back onto the chassis I have end play with the centre diff moving back and forward on the chassis.

So my question is has anyone had this issue come up?
What has caused this to happen as it seems perfect off the car but as soon as it's bolted back on the chassis it spreads the diff housing apart and then I have about 3mm of end play from the front to back of the car. No plastic is worn where the bearings sit, changed clutch bell and bearings to all new and still the same sound no matter how I set the mesh.

The only thing I havemt changed which is common in this is the main gear but it's def not to a point it's crapped out and needs replacing. But the end play is crazy as it has only got worse over time and now it's really bad with a lot of noise.

Any ideas guys and gals
Cheers in advance
Fordy

Graham11 11-24-2014 07:01 AM


Originally Posted by vwduud (Post 13677160)
Nicely constructed aluminum box, rugged starter contact switch and plenty of power from the dual motors on a 4S LiPo. Nice, cheaper alternative.

Agreed, its a great box but takes some modifying to get perfect for the Tekno vehicles. I actually removed the rear sliding mount all together because it make the chassis bend but then I ended up shimming the flywheel and motors up to compensate and now I just barely have to push down to get them to contact.

Graham11 11-24-2014 07:04 AM


Originally Posted by jjfo80 (Post 13677613)
Hey guys and gals,

Just wondering my main gear and clutch bell mesh making a whole heap of noise as tho it's to tight or to loose. But what I am not understanding is when the kit was new there was no noise so it was easy to line up all the time. But now I am confused as to why I can't get the noise to go away but what I have noticed now is when I take the centre diff out and all sits very nicely in the housing, but when it's bolted back onto the chassis I have end play with the centre diff moving back and forward on the chassis.

So my question is has anyone had this issue come up?
What has caused this to happen as it seems perfect off the car but as soon as it's bolted back on the chassis it spreads the diff housing apart and then I have about 3mm of end play from the front to back of the car. No plastic is worn where the bearings sit, changed clutch bell and bearings to all new and still the same sound no matter how I set the mesh.

The only thing I havemt changed which is common in this is the main gear but it's def not to a point it's crapped out and needs replacing. But the end play is crazy as it has only got worse over time and now it's really bad with a lot of noise.

Any ideas guys and gals
Cheers in advance
Fordy

Is it just the noise or is there a performance issue? That said, how are yor tightening the screws that mount the diff housign and center brace? If you start with one side and work your way to the other end then you are probably spreading the housing out and since you've already done that it may not fix well and you may need to purchase a new housing but you should tighten those 6 screws like you would a diff housing or spare tire so that one side isnt getting tweaked. Does that make sense?

But the thing I dont know is, why would it be louder just because the center diff moves back and forth a bit? Mine has some play too, and your clutch bell should have some later play as well so I dont think that would be causing your extreme noise issue.

Im more inclined to think maybe your clutch teeth or spur teeth are worn down and the mesh isnt great.

jjfo80 11-24-2014 07:21 AM


Originally Posted by Graham11 (Post 13677623)
Is it just the noise or is there a performance issue? That said, how are yor tightening the screws that mount the diff housign and center brace? If you start with one side and work your way to the other end then you are probably spreading the housing out and since you've already done that it may not fix well and you may need to purchase a new housing but you should tighten those 6 screws like you would a diff housing or spare tire so that one side isnt getting tweaked. Does that make sense?

But the thing I dont know is, why would it be louder just because the center diff moves back and forth a bit? Mine has some play too, and your clutch bell should have some later play as well so I dont think that would be causing your extreme noise issue.

Im more inclined to think maybe your clutch teeth or spur teeth are worn down and the mesh isnt great.

Yeah mate that does make perfect sense with tweak as chassis tweak happens in onroad so. But I replaced the clutch bell so the teeth on the spur are worn but not to the point I would have thought ever be a issue due to seeing a lot worse before. But it's only a noise thing performance isn't a issue but it just sounds really loud as tho your clutch bearings are gone. Like a terrible noise. And yeah I just understand it has so much movement. But I will try and tweak it better when doing them up but they are countersunk screws so they can't be tweaked to far like flat style screws if u know what I mean. If all else fails I will change spur and see of that's the case.
Cheers mate
Fordy

jjfo80 11-24-2014 07:25 AM

Oh and the only reasoning I say it's a problem moving front to back and making noise as it's just changing where it's running on the bell so if it's happy in one spot and thought it maybe or may not be that causing the noise :)

Graham11 11-24-2014 07:47 AM

I would try doing the star pattern when tightening the flat head screws that attach the diff housing to the chassis first and see if that helps line it up better. And then try a new spur, although my NB spur doesnt show much wear at all after a whole season. Good luck, let us know what you find out.

jjfo80 11-24-2014 07:55 AM


Originally Posted by Graham11 (Post 13677726)
I would try doing the star pattern when tightening the flat head screws that attach the diff housing to the chassis first and see if that helps line it up better. And then try a new spur, although my NB spur doesnt show much wear at all after a whole season. Good luck, let us know what you find out.

Will do mate. Just like a nice smooth sound coming from my cars and not noisey rattles and stuff. Lol :D

Graham11 11-24-2014 07:58 AM


Originally Posted by jjfo80 (Post 13677754)
Will do mate. Just like a nice smooth sound coming from my cars and not noisey rattles and stuff. Lol :D

Definitely agree, I like a nice smooth quiet drivetrain too. I also just was thinking that maybe the bell is shimmed to much and its got a lot of play? I assume you replaced the bearings in the bell already?

You didnt use any of the spacers under the diff housing correct?

brmena101 11-24-2014 08:26 AM

Any plans on a updated kit comming out? correcting bugs etc.

Graham11 11-24-2014 08:48 AM


Originally Posted by brmena101 (Post 13677802)
Any plans on a updated kit comming out? correcting bugs etc.

any bugs that there were, such as the gas tank and diff shims(I don't know of any others off top of my head) have already been updated as running changes in the kits. If you receive a kit with old parts just email [email protected] and we'll get it worked out. So in other words, no updated nb48.2 as the kit is less than a year old but all kits have the updated parts now unless you got old stock from a retailer. The only reason there was an eb48.2 was because tekno wanted to make all the lightened upgrade parts stock pieces and kept the price the same instead of making everyone buy all the upgrades separately. All kits since have also included these lightened upgrade parts.

THE PHILLY JYNX 11-24-2014 09:29 AM


Originally Posted by brmena101 (Post 13677802)
Any plans on a updated kit comming out? correcting bugs etc.

At some point down the road I would think you would see a new version or more likely a bunch of updated (optional) parts. Lets be honest here. If it does not happen that means Tekno feels there current platform or geometry is the best it can be. And being satisfied or feeling something is good enough is when you get left behind!!!! I can tell you for sure thats not the direction Tekno is heading in.

madweazl 11-24-2014 10:12 AM

I cant imagine the need for a drastic change warranting a .2 or V2 for at least another year. The kit is every bit as good as anything else out there (I've run the MBX7r the last few weeks and still prefer the Tekno but am working on setups) and they have released a number of things like the LRC pivot block, new brake cams, droop screws etc.. It isnt like they're just sitting back and doing nothing. Tekno has been the hands down best I've ever seen in the industry at responding to customer input and addressing issues (no matter how minor) extremely fast.

There is no reason to delay making a purchase if you're worried about having an outdated platform to work with.


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