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I like the stock body too. Have experienced great results. No cracks or breaks, great aerodynamics, unique styling that sets the Tekno apart, and it is very light as well! Couldn't ask for more.:nod:
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I had good luck with the stock buggy body. The truggy not so much.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...4-img-0314.jpg The FTW reactor works well also. http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...0-img-0713.png |
I had an opportunity to see this buggy in action this past weekend @ Fear Farm Raceway, Arizona home of the nitro challenge. The Tekno team was in full force I believe considering it was the debut of Mr. Lutz against some very talented pro's Maifield, Cavaleri, Savoya, Drake, Stees, Peck, etc. A fair amount of local club drivers here in AZ have jumped ship and are speaking highly about this car. Not only that, they are showing it on the track and the car indeed looks fast, nimble, jumps well, corners great, and acceleration is sound.
biggest surprise for me was a new name "bornhorst" taking it to some of the best talent in RC racing. His driving ability was impressive and again, proving that the car is the real deal. Im sure his driving ability has a lot to do with it however it was great to see a new name. I foresee his name being more present in the future. Ryan Lutz.....just a great guy and I was happy to see him tear it up so soon. Probably had a lot of pressure however the debut was solid and I can only see much promise moving ahead. Truggy looks good too. Enjoy your ride folks. |
Originally Posted by RokleM
(Post 13659978)
While troubleshooting some erratic higher temperatures and less sharp throttle response, found that my center diff pins has warn into the cup sideways, causing grooving and odd handing. Running 5/5/4.
Question however. When I put the back rear of most other buggies on the ground and rotate the front tires, there is a moderate amount of resistance. This does not appear to be the case with the NB48. There is a slight hint of resistance, but it's much more free. I'm wondering if this is normal and can I stop searching for another issue (which I'm failing to find)? |
Originally Posted by RokleM
(Post 13659978)
While troubleshooting some erratic higher temperatures and less sharp throttle response, found that my center diff pins has warn into the cup sideways, causing grooving and odd handing. Running 5/5/4.
Question however. When I put the back rear of most other buggies on the ground and rotate the front tires, there is a moderate amount of resistance. This does not appear to be the case with the NB48. There is a slight hint of resistance, but it's much more free. I'm wondering if this is normal and can I stop searching for another issue (which I'm failing to find)? The resistance you are seeing is due to the 5k center diff oil. We typically only recommend 5k for loose tracks as it will quickly overheat on medium to high grip conditions. Try changing it to 7k and see if the resistance increases. Question, are you having an issue with the buggy? Curious why you are trying to find a problem. Are you just putting the buggy through its paces and trying to see if there is anything wrong? |
Originally Posted by MattDub
(Post 13667893)
Eric, be sure to replace the diff cup. Since the pins have warn into the groves the mesh will not be correct and will cause the diff to bind.
The resistance you are seeing is due to the 5k center diff oil. We typically only recommend 5k for loose tracks as it will quickly overheat on medium to high grip conditions. Try changing it to 7k and see if the resistance increases. Question, are you having an issue with the buggy? Curious why you are trying to find a problem. Are you just putting the buggy through its paces and trying to see if there is anything wrong? Issue is a general loss of power (but newer engine) the last few weeks. Even going to all soft springs, I hear a slight delay in rev of engine before an active engagement of the drivetrain. It's noticeable if you're driving or carefully listening, but not obvious. I replaced the entire clutch assembly other than the flywheel, but noticed a possible slightly slipping of the flywheel, so a new flywheel and collet will be installed before this weekend (waiting on the package). Due to this I was performing a complete check of the entire drive-train. I do a general teardown and complete refresh of my vehicles minimum once a month or so (diffs, shocks, binding, bearing check, CVD's, wear, etc), so this is something new that has popped up I'm looking into. |
Originally Posted by RokleM
(Post 13667901)
Hey Matt, yes diff cup absolutely replaced as soon as I found the issue.
Issue is a general loss of power (but newer engine) the last few weeks. Even going to all soft springs, I hear a slight delay in rev of engine before an active engagement of the drivetrain. It's noticeable if you're driving or carefully listening, but not obvious. I replaced the entire clutch assembly other than the flywheel, but noticed a possible slightly slipping of the flywheel, so a new flywheel and collet will be installed before this weekend (waiting on the package). Due to this I was performing a complete check of the entire drive-train. I do a general teardown and complete refresh of my vehicles minimum once a month or so (diffs, shocks, binding, bearing check, CVD's, wear, etc), so this is something new that has popped up I'm looking into. Is the clutch slipping? If so do the following: Using a Dremel and grinding the inside of the clutch bell to remove any aluminum or debris that may be present. Make sure to hold the flywheel with vice grips and really crank on the clutch nut. I use a 8 inch breaker bar from Lowes with a 8mm long shank socket. With the vice grips and breaker bar I can put about an extra 1/4 turn on the nut. Is the motor bogging? If so do the following: Make sure you are using our 15 tooth bell. Over gearing can can cause a bog. Go to harder clutch shoe springs. Two golds, most of us run two golds and two greens. Just some ideas, hope this helps. |
Originally Posted by MattDub
(Post 13667939)
5k can produce a slight delay in acceleration as it will force more drive to the front wheels causing the fronts to balloon and slip until they gain traction. 6 or 7k will put more drive to the rear wheels, providing a more instant acceleration.
Is the clutch slipping? If so do the following: Using a Dremel and grinding the inside of the clutch bell to remove any aluminum or debris that may be present. Make sure to hold the flywheel with vice grips and really crank on the clutch nut. I use a 8 inch breaker bar from Lowes with a 8mm long shank socket. With the vice grips and breaker bar I can put about an extra 1/4 turn on the nut. Is the motor bogging? If so do the following: Make sure you are using our 15 tooth bell. Over gearing can can cause a bog. Go to harder clutch shoe springs. Two golds, most of us run two golds and two greens. Just some ideas, hope this helps. However, I still wonder on the original question. |
Tekno, do you have any video from Sikest race with Lutz and NB48? Guess a lot of NB48 owners would like to see it=)
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So this past weekend at The Battle of the Sikest at Fear Farm, we had quite a bit of wind. All cars were being affected but lap times were falling too much by adjusting lines and cutting jumps to just adjust to the wind. We ended up with wings like this. It really helped steady the car through the air. There was still the possibility of wind getting underneath the car and raising the front end before landing regardless of brake input, but it did eliminate the wing dragging the car around and making it impossible to recover from.
http://i893.photobucket.com/albums/a...psd12a0116.jpg |
Originally Posted by Sean Dickinson
(Post 13669606)
So this past weekend at The Battle of the Sikest at Fear Farm, we had quite a bit of wind. All cars were being affected but lap times were falling too much by adjusting lines and cutting jumps to just adjust to the wind. We ended up with wings like this. It really helped steady the car through the air. There was still the possibility of wind getting underneath the car and raising the front end before landing regardless of brake input, but it did eliminate the wing dragging the car around and making it impossible to recover from.
http://i893.photobucket.com/albums/a...psd12a0116.jpg |
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Vandalzz, There are some short video clips you can find on FB. Fear Farm posted some, Sikest track design posted some and AKA posted some. I don't think any Mains are posted from start to finish but clips are out there.
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Originally Posted by Sean Dickinson
(Post 13669606)
So this past weekend at The Battle of the Sikest at Fear Farm, we had quite a bit of wind. All cars were being affected but lap times were falling too much by adjusting lines and cutting jumps to just adjust to the wind. We ended up with wings like this. It really helped steady the car through the air. There was still the possibility of wind getting underneath the car and raising the front end before landing regardless of brake input, but it did eliminate the wing dragging the car around and making it impossible to recover from.
http://i893.photobucket.com/albums/a...psd12a0116.jpg |
Originally Posted by Graham11
(Post 13670752)
How do you like the B2101 engine? Did you order yours direct from Japan too? I have one but havent even opened it yet but got it here in the states but still dont see any retailers carrying them.
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