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Anyone know the chassis front kick-up angle in degrees?
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Originally Posted by vwduud
(Post 13673615)
Anyone know the chassis front kick-up angle in degrees?
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
(Post 13673819)
10 degrees on the chassis. You can then add up to 2 more degrees to the arms in .5 degree increments by adjusting the pills on the front inner hingepin brace.
So based on that, if running the 15 degree caster blocks and the center dot pills on the front inner hinge pin brace, the total caster would be 25 degrees correct? And with the 2 additional degrees, in half degree increments, that would be 1 degree up and down correct? Double dot being a half degree up or down and the single outer dot a full degree up or down. So with the 15 degree caster blocks, the full range of caster would be 24 to 26 degrees. Is this correct? Thanks - Jim |
while you are at it..
the rear toe inserts with the 0 pile in it, gives which degree the normal one and the LRC one..? |
Originally Posted by vwduud
(Post 13674164)
Great thanks Matthew.
So based on that, if running the 15 degree caster blocks and the center dot pills on the front inner hinge pin brace, the total caster would be 25 degrees correct? And with the 2 additional degrees, in half degree increments, that would be 1 degree up and down correct? Double dot being a half degree up or down and the single outer dot a full degree up or down. So with the 15 degree caster blocks, the full range of caster would be 24 to 26 degrees. Is this correct? Thanks - Jim
Originally Posted by speedy2
(Post 13674187)
while you are at it..
the rear toe inserts with the 0 pile in it, gives which degree the normal one and the LRC one..? TKR5013B has an additional 1.5 degrees of toe when compared to the stock plate. TKR5013C has an additional 1 degree of toe when compared to the stock plate and .5 degree less toe when compared to 5013B plate. TKR5013C also has a lower roll center. The entire pill holder was moved down 1mm to achieve this. This also means that the all of the anti-squat settings changed. Instead of having the option of 1 to 3 degrees of anti-squat in half degree increments (when adjusting the rear inner plate), you now have 2 to 4 degrees of anti-squat adjustment. So, having said all that, when using the zero pill (or center dot pill) in the rear holder your toe will be - 2 degrees with TKR5013 3.5 degrees with TKR5013B 3 degrees with TKR5013C |
1 Attachment(s)
Destruction winner! :D
This one was unique for me, so figured I would share. Check those CVD's boys and girls. A good tip from Ramos that he mentioned: "When refreshing your kit always look at your driveshaft long ways to see if it has started to twist. If I see that the pin and holes on cv end aren't lined up I usually change out" |
Originally Posted by RokleM
(Post 13674926)
Destruction winner! :D
This one was unique for me, so figured I would share. Check those CVD's boys and girls. A good tip from Ramos that he mentioned: "When refreshing your kit always look at your driveshaft long ways to see if it has started to twist. If I see that the pin and holes on cv end aren't lined up I usually change out" |
are there any +1/+2 mm wheelhubs available ?
what other brands would fit ?? |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by RokleM
(Post 13674926)
Destruction winner! :D
This one was unique for me, so figured I would share. Check those CVD's boys and girls. A good tip from Ramos that he mentioned: "When refreshing your kit always look at your driveshaft long ways to see if it has started to twist. If I see that the pin and holes on cv end aren't lined up I usually change out" |
Originally Posted by speedy2
(Post 13675553)
are there any +1/+2 mm wheelhubs available ?
what other brands would fit ?? |
Originally Posted by RokleM
(Post 13674926)
Destruction winner! :D
This one was unique for me, so figured I would share. Check those CVD's boys and girls. A good tip from Ramos that he mentioned: "When refreshing your kit always look at your driveshaft long ways to see if it has started to twist. If I see that the pin and holes on cv end aren't lined up I usually change out" |
Originally Posted by speedy2
(Post 13675553)
are there any +1/+2 mm wheelhubs available ?
what other brands would fit ?? |
Originally Posted by Graham11
(Post 13675558)
Happened to me a couple times but because my drive cups were extremely worn.
I'm guessing an odd one-off situation, and will send it in to Tekno so they can do an analysis in case of a possible bad part. Money/discount/refund isn't an issue (cheap part), just want to ensure there isn't an issue. |
Just finished putting the Ty Tessmann method break-in on my new O.S. Speed in the NB-48. Getting back into nitro, I needed a new starter box. I've used the OFNA truggy box in the past. Decided to give ProTek's SureStart a shot this time.
As shown in the photos, I did direct mount the rear posts to the top of the starter box. Using the rear mount in its standard orientation, the outer "ears" would hit the rear A-Arms when position the posts in this position. Leaving the stock mount in place, but flipped around, the droop from the front and rear arms cleared the box. Also, I did need to raise the starter wheel and motors with 2mm spacers to reach the flywheel. With a 4S LiPo, this box has plenty of power to turn over a new, tight motor. Last note. Per the Ty Tessmann break-in method, I pre-heated the motor to 170+ degrees each start. http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...pse350aa94.jpg http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps27bcb49a.jpg |
Well what did you think?
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