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Originally Posted by RokleM
(Post 13735585)
While I can see a possible EB48.3 and NB48.2 with a number of revised and upgraded parts, I can't see logic around a whole new vehicle at this point.
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Originally Posted by Tuppy
(Post 13735653)
Cool I have ordered the current car and the last thing i want is for it to be changed out in 6 months. :cry::cry:
There is no need for a new car that's for sure. Enjoy |
Took the Tekno out to Thunder Alley Sunday to get my race on for the first time in about three weeks and was only able to throw down two or three practice laps before my throttle servo let go :( I cant complain since it has been going strong for about four years now but it was a huge bummer since I didnt have a backup with me. The on site shop didnt have anything I would run so my day was done. Rudy Rico actually offered to let borrow one from his electric buggy but I declined and just talked with him and his father for a bit.
While I only got to run a few laps, the setup was way off for the first time. Mo's setup is generally really close but it was pushing like a dump truck Sunday. Sure wish I would have had the opportunity to try a few things. Hopefully I can get another run in before we move back east but it isnt looking promising. Hope everyone has a great Christmas and Santa delivers everyone's wants and wishes. |
Clutches, who has run some different brands? I'm wanting to test a couple including the reds quattro, but believe I am coming the the realization that apparently the NB48 diff is 2-4"mm further than most typical 1/8th vehicles. It seems like most that I see mocked up or try to install myself are a bit short, leading you to ether be forced to run stock or really shim out other manufactures products past what they probably should be. Another alternative is chassis modification but I would like to avoid that. Or am I missing something here?
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I am using the Werks clutch in both buggy and truggy with standard clutch bell. Had to put about 2-3mm of shims behind the flywheel.
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MC2 clutch works great for me:nod:
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Originally Posted by mr240
(Post 13745618)
I am using the Werks clutch in both buggy and truggy with standard clutch bell. Had to put about 2-3mm of shims behind the flywheel.
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Originally Posted by RokleM
(Post 13747435)
Valid, but always have read to avoid this unless there is absolutely no other possibility.
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Originally Posted by Graham11
(Post 13747961)
I have tried stock, Buku and M2C, and in NB48 the Buku is best and in NT48 the M2C but both need to be shimmed out 2-3mms before putting flywheel on... I have done this all season and have not had any issues and see many other guys doing it as well... dont think youll have an issue.
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Originally Posted by fastchvy
(Post 13748223)
whats wrong with the stock clutch?
+1. I'm going to try the Max Life shoes in this clutch if it turns out to be a real pos. I for one am done with the M2C snapping gen 2 pin drama.... :tire: |
Originally Posted by CKmaxx
(Post 13748421)
+1. I'm going to try the Max Life shoes in this clutch if it turns out to be a real pos. I for one am done with the M2C snapping gen 2 pin drama.... :tire:
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Originally Posted by mr240
(Post 13748542)
Stock clutch works fine. But for me the shoes wears down too fast.
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This is surprising to me. Before switching to Tekno I ran Ascendancy and Thunder Innovations clutches and they wore a lot faster than Tekno shoes.
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Don't get me wrong, I think tekno actually is doing a pretty good job on shoes so far. Wear on average I'm getting about 1g out of shoes on the stock clutch, but I would like to go a bit further. I've been hearing about 2g average on the reds, hence the reason I was checking to see who all has strapped a different clutch to the setup instead.
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Originally Posted by RokleM
(Post 13749631)
Don't get me wrong, I think tekno actually is doing a pretty good job on shoes so far. Wear on average I'm getting about 1g out of shoes on the stock clutch, but I would like to go a bit further. I've been hearing about 2g average on the reds, hence the reason I was checking to see who all has strapped a different clutch to the setup instead.
My OS Speed took a little over a gallon and a half to fully break in, of which I've never changed the clutch shoes or bearings. In fact, I ran almost 2 gallons before removing the motor to service the clutch/end bell. End bell still spun freely before disassembling. Upon removal one of the inner bearing shields had fallen off, but bearings were still very free. I had some mushrooming on the shoes that I filed off, but elected to continue running them, replacing the clutch bearings. Just getting back into nitro and not familiar with the performance fall off, due to clutch wear, I'm not sure I felt anything significant over the course of these 2- gallons. Surprisingly have been turning as fast (and at times faster) lap times with the NB-48 over my EB-48.2, standing on the hot pit. So should I feel slippage at some point? Delayed engagement? |
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