CanyonCarverR1

iTrader: (13)

Sounds to me that the setup station was telling you that something is binding up in your car. If everything is moving freely in your car and your setup station, you should get the same measurements every time.

thorns

iTrader: (2)

Anything needed extra out of the box for the new 6R apart from standard fluids/tools etc
?
Hows the wear on the buggy? Looking for something that needs no hop ups out of the box, and will run a long time without excessive wear and slop.

shinnbad12

iTrader: (1)

Just the BCE X3 chassis

Scott

mjealey

iTrader: (7)

Hey guys I am running the 6r and I need to settle the rear down just a little bit. On acceleration it can be just a little loose and squirley. This is the setup I have in it now just stock:

http://mugenseiki.com/images/mbx6r/s..._us1103kit.pdf

I do plan on getting the BCE x3 chassis soon, but for this weekend what would be the best fox with this +5 stock chassis?

plus2ss

iTrader: (1)

Id start with more rear toe in. Try 3 degrees 0 antisquat

RushDL

I use the Hudy often, for about 4 years now. I think that there are variables in play that you have to mitigate. Then, it's experience. Just do it and keep doing it and dbl checking yourself with other instruments.

Here are some things that I find help create an accurate reading:

*Things like a dirty car will ruin any chance at a good setup.
*Always setup clean.
*Screws too tight or loose on the stands.
* Bad droop meaning poor suspension (Can't repeat it, sticky, bent, dirty).
*Most often I see others with poor setup boards.
*Use a smooth setup board with a wrap over it. Silky smooth.
*Always Level it.

The LONG braces cause a more RIGID chassis.
The SHORT braces allow more FLEX on the chassis.
A combination of short/long will move the flex line up or back.
The flex line is between the inner 2 brace mounts.

Ive decided to go long but you are right there is more traction available with the extra flex. We get a LOT of AIR out here on my track so...
Also easy to change when you run into that "10th" scale track. ehhem.... Novelty, Achooo!

jmaxey51

iTrader: (7)

light blue 84mm kyosho rear springs and 5k in rear... just what helped me with the +5 chassis... i have the X3 on the way.

am

I usually set my camber with the cassis pushed to the ground. This way you are always constant on the hight when setting camber.

morgoth

More toe, less anti squat. And the 8.25 is too hard compared to the front spring. Most people run a spring that's 0.25-0.5 softer in the rear.
I tried 8.25 front and rear and the car was hard too drive. I went with a softer rear spring and it was good.

Sideshow Bob

guys, can someone please explain how the mugen springs work, ie the numbers in relation to springrate im confused. seems the number is actually the number of turns and a higher number is actually a sogter spring? the mugen chart is a bit confusing, especially when reading the above post alluding to the fact that if one goes down from 8.25 by 0.25 or 0.5 one should end up with a 8.0 or 7.75, which the mugen chart seems to say is actually a harder spring

Thanks, im used to color coded spring charts ;-)

bill marchant

iTrader: (274)

off the topic....mugen hex hardware is metric or standard? losi is standard I need to know if I have to look for a hex tool set

bill marchant

iTrader: (274)

Just orderd a BCE X3 chassis from Bill and I still haven't started the build yet

TRF415boy

Correct, more coils equal softer spring.

Sideshow Bob

Ok thanks, so what seems to be a good number on the rear if one uses the 8.25 front? a 8.5/8.75? what do you guys run? i just have the stock R springs now which are the 8.25 ones...

morgoth

The mugen is metric.

Indeed. If you run a 8.25 front (softest silver spring) than you want a 8.5 in the rear.
8.5 front and 8.75 rear are just just announced but I don't know when they'll be in the shop. Until now, 8.25f and 8.5r are the softest springs available.