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Mugen MBX6

Old 01-13-2012, 07:04 PM
  #15001  
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Originally Posted by KThatcher
Sorry bro.. do you have any pics as I cant get a picture in my tiny little mind of whats going on...
Sure do heres some, thank god i got a good camera lol. Also Kevin we haven't talked much but iv'e raced with you a bit. So maybe at rev for airtronics we can meet more proper lol. But anyway in these pics you can see the top brake hinge as what im ganna call it and the slide(area where you adjust for more or less brake seems to be rubbing a little. Also the hinges seem a little stiff and not wanting to move freely with ease(im sure this will break in as wear goes on). But also ing the pics that i show the actual linkage you can see the slant it has going up. I took this throttle linkage off my old mbx6 and tried to copy my old 6 set up exactly as far as linkage goes but i don't recal having this slant. Mugen adds the little servo shims that are optional but i never used them on my old 6 so i decided to not on this one aswell. Maybe my explanation and pics this time can help.

-picture 1 you see the rubbing or real close to rubbing i can;t say exactly.
-pic 2 another shot of how close they are
-pic 3 the slant of my linkage


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Old 01-13-2012, 08:24 PM
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We normally bend the brake rods to get the angle of engagement we want and with tht, the servo needs to turn less so it affects less stuff.
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Old 01-13-2012, 08:26 PM
  #15003  
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Originally Posted by NitroXray80809
Im normally never asking the questions here but im kinda lost. Doing my throttle trim i noticed my upper brake linkage is rubbing the actual linkage the locks the brakes. But when i try to raise it with my hand it hits the splash guard. Anyone elses doing this? Are you running the throttle spacers mugen adds with the tray? Im running the servos rubber grouments and on all my other mugens iv'e never used them either but on this particular car im noticing my linkages for brakes aren't smooth like the sticke where they are so if i hit brakes they stay there etc. Lil info won;t hurt. Im assuming once i wear them in it will go away but my servos seem to be humming from this.
Hey Nitro..

Yeah I wasn't at all happy with the way my linkage was working either, it didn't really seem to be on par with the Mugen quality.

I don't have any pics at the moment but the first thing I did was get some aluminum servo horns, not only are they're stronger and less likely to strip, but they are also thinner where the linkage attaches and as you can see in your pics it looks like the brake linkage is only clearing the servo by less than 0.5mm. With the aluminum horn it allowed me to use some thin washers/shims to help free up the action by reducing some friction and still have plenty of clearance over the servo.

The next thing I did is replace the 2x12mm screw with a 2x14mm (or 16mm) and secured the f/r brake linkage through the horn with the shims and added a spacer to make them equal to the distance between the metal loops of the f/r brake links (i.e so both links are parallel and horizontal travelling through the center of the loops). I also removed the adjusting collar from the lower linkage as it is too big and will make contact with either the center diff cover plate at full throttle or the top of the servo at full brake. I replaced it with a small stop collar so I can adjust the bias if needed.

On the throttle side of the horn I used a bushing from some HB D8 linkage and drilled the alum servo horn to get proper fitment of the bushing then secured it to the Mugen plastic piece for the throttle side. I also replaced the throttle return spring with one that is a couple of mm shorter so that I could maintain some physical deadband in my linkage without having the servo buzzing from the spring pressure.

Now there is zero drag/friction in the whole assembly . I'll try to get some pics tomorrow to better show what I'm talking about.

edit: I also do not use any rubber grommets or spacers on the servos.

Last edited by HH; 01-13-2012 at 08:37 PM.
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:12 PM
  #15004  
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Originally Posted by adrictan
We normally bend the brake rods to get the angle of engagement we want and with tht, the servo needs to turn less so it affects less stuff.
If i think now i may have bent my old ones a little. But im still in a daze, i never heard my servos humm so bad at full throttle and brake. Also it humms light at center. Im kinda getting mad because my old mugen was set almost exact and didnt do any of this. Im thinking about just digging up my old car and swapping all the parts.
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by NitroXray80809
If i think now i may have bent my old ones a little. But im still in a daze, i never heard my servos humm so bad at full throttle and brake. Also it humms light at center. Im kinda getting mad because my old mugen was set almost exact and didnt do any of this. Im thinking about just digging up my old car and swapping all the parts.
You racing tomorrow? Can take a look...
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:18 PM
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Here is my setup if it helps you out any. I have put a 3mm screw in my break linkage that bolts to the servo horn also. Nothing binds or hits anything.

Also the break adjusters i like to off set them so they are not one directly above the other. Makes it easier to adjust. And i flip one the other way round.
Attached Thumbnails Mugen MBX6-p1000046.jpg   Mugen MBX6-p1000047.jpg   Mugen MBX6-p1000048.jpg   Mugen MBX6-p1000050.jpg   Mugen MBX6-p1000051.jpg  

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Old 01-13-2012, 09:30 PM
  #15007  
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I also put a washer to increase the servo horn. Is the best and fastest solution.

Best Regards.
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Old 01-13-2012, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by plus2ss
I've ran the dynamite pro linkage on my old m-spec and it worked great. Haven't had to mess with the stock linkage on my 6r. It just takes a little fine tuning with seting up the linkages to get it right. Give the dynamite linkage a try, its good and pretty cheap
i tried that setup, i couldnt get good breaks at all, also had the linkage pop off all the time, was practicing one day and break were weak but i kept running, next thing i know, no breaks. thought battery died, went down to find front and rear breaks popped off the ball. threw it away after that, now no worry and stop on a dime

however, ive seen others have great luck with them.

Originally Posted by Joey Powell
Middle, but I was also using the M2C 3 dot down pill in the front lower. This takes as much kickup out of the front as possible and adds a little positive reactive caster. It's a good setup for a smooth track. Probably not as good on a rough track.
oh okay, i was just wondering. im running the pill that says 1/2 i believe for kick up, and middle on upper arm. trying to dial out steering and im running batter in the box.
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Old 01-13-2012, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by MaxxBashers
You racing tomorrow? Can take a look...
Nope got a engine to break in if i can get my linkage to keep me from thinking im ganna fry my servo. I know its somthing simple im just lost because its the throttle horn off my old 6 and its almost spittin image same set up as it aswell but somthing defanitly isn't sittin right. Im ganna take a hard look and work it out tomorrow and look at my old car to see if i done a trick i just over looked. If all else fails im ganna grab me a longer screw and shim the shizz out of it!
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Old 01-14-2012, 04:36 AM
  #15010  
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Originally Posted by NitroXray80809
Sure do heres some, thank god i got a good camera lol. Also Kevin we haven't talked much but iv'e raced with you a bit. So maybe at rev for airtronics we can meet more proper lol. But anyway in these pics you can see the top brake hinge as what im ganna call it and the slide(area where you adjust for more or less brake seems to be rubbing a little. Also the hinges seem a little stiff and not wanting to move freely with ease(im sure this will break in as wear goes on). But also ing the pics that i show the actual linkage you can see the slant it has going up. I took this throttle linkage off my old mbx6 and tried to copy my old 6 set up exactly as far as linkage goes but i don't recal having this slant. Mugen adds the little servo shims that are optional but i never used them on my old 6 so i decided to not on this one aswell. Maybe my explanation and pics this time can help.

-picture 1 you see the rubbing or real close to rubbing i can;t say exactly.
-pic 2 another shot of how close they are
-pic 3 the slant of my linkage
I'd add an other shim to get it straight. What I've done to my upper link is drill the hole with the threads so it moves free around the screw. I think you need a 2mm drill. The horn I'm using is the one from the Dynamite linkage. The horn is really good, but I didn't lik the linkage that much. My throttle linkage moves free now.
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Old 01-14-2012, 08:29 AM
  #15011  
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Default MBX6/6R 3 PC. QUICK CHANGE MOTOR MOUNT



M2C RACING is pleased to announce the release of our new 3pc. quick change motor mount. made with 7075 air craft aluminum for maximum
strenght and includes all the hardware included. These screws are the best on
the market. We have also added (4) 3mmx6 conpoint set screws to this model
to give you a little more insurance against the motor mount moving on bad
landings. and chrome plated to add a little bling::::::
part no. m2c5845
www.m2cracing.com
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Old 01-14-2012, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by morgoth
I'd add an other shim to get it straight. What I've done to my upper link is drill the hole with the threads so it moves free around the screw. I think you need a 2mm drill. The horn I'm using is the one from the Dynamite linkage. The horn is really good, but I didn't lik the linkage that much. My throttle linkage moves free now.
My throttle ball cut is also super tight. I have to grab it a put force just to get it to wiggle a little. But where it goes to the horn i leave the screw a hair loose so its free. Its just my brake linkages in a serious bing im feeling. But my servo humms before i can even get the carb open to my venturi size which is a o.s. 7/ninja. Very confusing to me right now as how my linkage is bound so bad but i done it so close to my old car and it was fine. Im ganna really work with it today and get it figured out.
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Old 01-14-2012, 09:31 AM
  #15013  
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Originally Posted by NitroXray80809
My throttle ball cut is also super tight. I have to grab it a put force just to get it to wiggle a little. But where it goes to the horn i leave the screw a hair loose so its free. Its just my brake linkages in a serious bing im feeling. But my servo humms before i can even get the carb open to my venturi size which is a o.s. 7/ninja. Very confusing to me right now as how my linkage is bound so bad but i done it so close to my old car and it was fine. Im ganna really work with it today and get it figured out.
The dynamite linkage has metal bushings in the servo horn, but you must use 3mm screws then. But that's easy to do. Drill you holes to 2.5mm and rethread them. Or screw in he screw like it did without threading it. Works fine and I have it for a half year like this.
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Old 01-14-2012, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by m2cracing


M2C RACING is pleased to announce the release of our new 3pc. quick change motor mount. made with 7075 air craft aluminum for maximum
strenght and includes all the hardware included. These screws are the best on
the market. We have also added (4) 3mmx6 conpoint set screws to this model
to give you a little more insurance against the motor mount moving on bad
landings. and chrome plated to add a little bling::::::
part no. m2c5845
www.m2cracing.com
that looks sweet dude !!!!!!
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Old 01-14-2012, 09:56 AM
  #15015  
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Originally Posted by JoeNolasco
Folks looking for some great deals on Mugen parts might want to check out the P1Hobbies.com vendor forum!
Hey Joe and Blake, I've got my car built and the engine almost broken in.
I just wanted to thank you guys for the awsome package deal you gave me. I've looked around and nobody is offering what you gave me! Can't wait to have Blake do a paint job for me...found some honeycomb templates.
If any of you out there are thinking of buying a new car/package, CALL THESE GUYS!
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