morgoth

More toe, less anti squat. And the 8.25 is too hard compared to the front spring. Most people run a spring that's 0.25-0.5 softer in the rear.
I tried 8.25 front and rear and the car was hard too drive. I went with a softer rear spring and it was good.

Sideshow Bob

guys, can someone please explain how the mugen springs work, ie the numbers in relation to springrate im confused. seems the number is actually the number of turns and a higher number is actually a sogter spring? the mugen chart is a bit confusing, especially when reading the above post alluding to the fact that if one goes down from 8.25 by 0.25 or 0.5 one should end up with a 8.0 or 7.75, which the mugen chart seems to say is actually a harder spring

Thanks, im used to color coded spring charts ;-)

bill marchant

iTrader: (274)

off the topic....mugen hex hardware is metric or standard? losi is standard I need to know if I have to look for a hex tool set

bill marchant

iTrader: (274)

Just orderd a BCE X3 chassis from Bill and I still haven't started the build yet

TRF415boy

Correct, more coils equal softer spring.

Sideshow Bob

Ok thanks, so what seems to be a good number on the rear if one uses the 8.25 front? a 8.5/8.75? what do you guys run? i just have the stock R springs now which are the 8.25 ones...

morgoth

The mugen is metric.

Indeed. If you run a 8.25 front (softest silver spring) than you want a 8.5 in the rear.
8.5 front and 8.75 rear are just just announced but I don't know when they'll be in the shop. Until now, 8.25f and 8.5r are the softest springs available.

BSEITZ

iTrader: (7)

Mugen is metric

Sideshow Bob

thanks Morgoth, so if I get the me some 8.5 F/ R and a set of 8.75 R i should have enough setup room
on my xray i just went one harder in front and my car was nice on most of our tracks

morgoth

Yep indeed. Most shops have the new springs already, except amain hobbies. I don't know if I'll buy them. Our cup has only 1 dirt track and it's medium traction but bumpy in some spots. The other tracks are astroturf. But they might come in handy when the track is wet.

donrod

iTrader: (2)

All you guys who ordered the BCE 3mm will love them, it will give you back ever thing you lost with the 5mm but still good in the rough. Along with the truggy tower,front batt and rear Kyosho springs the car is very good. Here is our setup again with the chassis,tower etc .. Donnie

donrod

iTrader: (2)

Adding to what the others have said you can also lower your camber link in the rear tower and lower the rear shock one hole on the tower also something we did with the 5mm to help is to raise the ft end higher then the rear. It's an easy try and it seemed to plant the rear more and still keep your steering. But the only way to fix it all is to shorten the chassis.

morgoth

Donrod, I'm wondering what's the difference is between the 5mm with medium wheelbase in the rear and 3mm chassis with the long wheelbase. The wheelbase should be same, just rear sticking out 2mm more with the 5mm chassis.
I'd really like to do some back to back testing in the morning on an astroturf circuit when it's still a little damp with BCE x3 and the stock +5mm chassis. Unfortunately my wallet is too small to buy a new chassis just for testing

donrod

iTrader: (2)

Yes wheel base would be the same but on the 5mm all your rear diff housing etc is bolted 2 mm further back on the chassis, which changes your weight transfer. If you didn't live out of country you could drive ours.

morgoth

That's very kind of you Too bad Europe is that far away.
Yea, I know. 2mm isn't a lot, but I have no clue how that would translate into car handling.