Mugen MBX6
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
on my xray i just went one harder in front and my car was nice on most of our tracks
Yep indeed. Most shops have the new springs already, except amain hobbies. I don't know if I'll buy them. Our cup has only 1 dirt track and it's medium traction but bumpy in some spots. The other tracks are astroturf. But they might come in handy when the track is wet.
All you guys who ordered the BCE 3mm will love them, it will give you back ever thing you lost with the 5mm but still good in the rough. Along with the truggy tower,front batt and rear Kyosho springs the car is very good. Here is our setup again with the chassis,tower etc .. Donnie
Hey guys I am running the 6r and I need to settle the rear down just a little bit. On acceleration it can be just a little loose and squirley. This is the setup I have in it now just stock:
http://mugenseiki.com/images/mbx6r/s..._us1103kit.pdf
I do plan on getting the BCE x3 chassis soon, but for this weekend what would be the best fox with this +5 stock chassis?
http://mugenseiki.com/images/mbx6r/s..._us1103kit.pdf
I do plan on getting the BCE x3 chassis soon, but for this weekend what would be the best fox with this +5 stock chassis?
Adding to what the others have said you can also lower your camber link in the rear tower and lower the rear shock one hole on the tower also something we did with the 5mm to help is to raise the ft end higher then the rear. It's an easy try and it seemed to plant the rear more and still keep your steering. But the only way to fix it all is to shorten the chassis.
I'd really like to do some back to back testing in the morning on an astroturf circuit when it's still a little damp with BCE x3 and the stock +5mm chassis. Unfortunately my wallet is too small to buy a new chassis just for testing
Donrod, I'm wondering what's the difference is between the 5mm with medium wheelbase in the rear and 3mm chassis with the long wheelbase. The wheelbase should be same, just rear sticking out 2mm more with the 5mm chassis.
I'd really like to do some back to back testing in the morning on an astroturf circuit when it's still a little damp with BCE x3 and the stock +5mm chassis. Unfortunately my wallet is too small to buy a new chassis just for testing
I'd really like to do some back to back testing in the morning on an astroturf circuit when it's still a little damp with BCE x3 and the stock +5mm chassis. Unfortunately my wallet is too small to buy a new chassis just for testing
Yea, I know. 2mm isn't a lot, but I have no clue how that would translate into car handling.
would be great to buy a MBX6 off u direct with yr BCE setup.
Tips for Forward Traction (acceleration out of the corners)
less rear antisquat (change the pill on the front arm mount in the rear end)
Stand the rear shocks out one hole on the tower
Try going up 1000wt in the rear diff
Check rear ride hight 28-30mm
Less front Caster
Shorter Wheel Base
Those adjustments are usually what I will look to do for forward traction.
Brand new cars usually take a while to break in and gain traction especially buggies with CVD's. Be aware that if you put brand new CVD's in the rear, expect a loss of traction till they break in a little.
less rear antisquat (change the pill on the front arm mount in the rear end)
Stand the rear shocks out one hole on the tower
Try going up 1000wt in the rear diff
Check rear ride hight 28-30mm
Less front Caster
Shorter Wheel Base
Those adjustments are usually what I will look to do for forward traction.
Brand new cars usually take a while to break in and gain traction especially buggies with CVD's. Be aware that if you put brand new CVD's in the rear, expect a loss of traction till they break in a little.
Rear Axles are a big deal in regards to rear traction, mainly how they bind or cause friction in thier joints.
More bind more traction (sometimes worse in the bumps however)
Rear axle angles, axle plunge in the outdrives, wear, style of axle (CVD,Universals, dogbones) bind differently. Worn out outdrives will bind more, however replace outdrives asap if they get a groove where the pin makes contact. Axle pin size plays a part too (smaller axle pin is more bind, faster wear)
Axles that sweep forward will have more bind than if the axle were to be inline with the out drives. Alot of cars now are desighned with axles that sweep forward.
Axle plunge in the outdrive (the movement of the ball and pin in the outdrive). Moving the rear hub up and down with the two hingepin holes changes axle plunge (generally the higher the axle is on the outside of the car will have less plunge). Rear roll center, camber link positions, diff hight all play a part. When I raced a lot of 1/10 gas truck we would raise the whole diff case off the chassis 1-2mm to get more plunge for more forward traction.
You dont want to bind the rear too much, you'll loose rotation in the corners and handling in some bumps, the rear will squat less on throttle and feel stiffer around the track.
More bind more traction (sometimes worse in the bumps however)
Rear axle angles, axle plunge in the outdrives, wear, style of axle (CVD,Universals, dogbones) bind differently. Worn out outdrives will bind more, however replace outdrives asap if they get a groove where the pin makes contact. Axle pin size plays a part too (smaller axle pin is more bind, faster wear)
Axles that sweep forward will have more bind than if the axle were to be inline with the out drives. Alot of cars now are desighned with axles that sweep forward.
Axle plunge in the outdrive (the movement of the ball and pin in the outdrive). Moving the rear hub up and down with the two hingepin holes changes axle plunge (generally the higher the axle is on the outside of the car will have less plunge). Rear roll center, camber link positions, diff hight all play a part. When I raced a lot of 1/10 gas truck we would raise the whole diff case off the chassis 1-2mm to get more plunge for more forward traction.
You dont want to bind the rear too much, you'll loose rotation in the corners and handling in some bumps, the rear will squat less on throttle and feel stiffer around the track.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
Welcome back, Chad.
Hey Mugen Guys Great to see "The Don" on again
Thank you Donnie for spending time/Set Up with the M guys++ we have
A Buzz with the X3 Pro chassis, there should be quite
a bit of feed back from the new racers who are excited
with all of the Great Info..Keep us posted
Thank you Donnie for spending time/Set Up with the M guys++ we have
A Buzz with the X3 Pro chassis, there should be quite
a bit of feed back from the new racers who are excited
with all of the Great Info..Keep us posted
BCE X3 is soooooo Dialed....
The BCE X3 is going ultra H.A.M. on the track. Keep up the great work BCE...
Tech Master
iTrader: (30)
[QUOTE=donrod;10126757]All you guys who ordered the BCE 3mm will love them, it will give you back ever thing you lost with the 5mm but still good in the rough. Along with the truggy tower,front batt and rear Kyosho springs the car is very good. Here is our setup again with the chassis,tower etc .. Donnie
Donnie, would you mind sharing the part number for the long front and rear brace that you use in this setup? Or does this mean use the truggy brace? Thanks!
Donnie, would you mind sharing the part number for the long front and rear brace that you use in this setup? Or does this mean use the truggy brace? Thanks!