3LikesMugen MBX6
05-10-2009, 01:02 AM
#3511
Actually that would make it worse. You would need to go the other way and lower the ball out on the carbon tab. It would help at full droop but at full compression it would give the opposite result.
The thing is its quite bad when you steer the wheels to full lock and then compress the chassis to the ground and watch what happens with the outside front wheel. I had never noticed it before until Dal pointed it out.
It almost straightens out half of its steering angle. And the outside wheel is doing most of the work when cornering and has the most weight over it so by having it straighten out when the car leans over onto it when in a corner you would loose some steering.
I am finding in a high traction fast sweeper i am having some big understeer which i think might be something to do with this above mentioned thing that's happening.
The thing is its quite bad when you steer the wheels to full lock and then compress the chassis to the ground and watch what happens with the outside front wheel. I had never noticed it before until Dal pointed it out.
It almost straightens out half of its steering angle. And the outside wheel is doing most of the work when cornering and has the most weight over it so by having it straighten out when the car leans over onto it when in a corner you would loose some steering.
I am finding in a high traction fast sweeper i am having some big understeer which i think might be something to do with this above mentioned thing that's happening.
05-10-2009, 06:58 AM
#3512
Interesting. You have any pics of you mod to the Ackerman plate so we can see what you mean?
I had a look and a play today with some 4mm spacers i had laying around and it dose seem to help stop the tow out on the outside wheel a little when the chassis is pushed down but only by about half. It still goes into about 10 to 15 degrees of tow out even still.
And at full droop when the chassis is up in the air the front wheels tow out like crazy.
The thing that would fix all this would be to have a much shorter Ackerman plate and a lot longer steering turnbuckle rods. The servo saver posts would need to be much closer together and almost touching each other with a Ackerman plate about half its current length or less. Then longer steering rods so the angle of deflection as the chassis moves up and down will be a lot less at the steering rods and thus not push and pull on the front hubs anywhere near as much if at all.
I think Losi have a short Ackerman plate and long steering rods on there buggy and it dose work to stop all that bump steer.
I had a look and a play today with some 4mm spacers i had laying around and it dose seem to help stop the tow out on the outside wheel a little when the chassis is pushed down but only by about half. It still goes into about 10 to 15 degrees of tow out even still.
And at full droop when the chassis is up in the air the front wheels tow out like crazy.
The thing that would fix all this would be to have a much shorter Ackerman plate and a lot longer steering turnbuckle rods. The servo saver posts would need to be much closer together and almost touching each other with a Ackerman plate about half its current length or less. Then longer steering rods so the angle of deflection as the chassis moves up and down will be a lot less at the steering rods and thus not push and pull on the front hubs anywhere near as much if at all.
I think Losi have a short Ackerman plate and long steering rods on there buggy and it dose work to stop all that bump steer.
05-10-2009, 07:07 AM
#3513
Yeah I'll also have a much lighter wallet and the last ninja pipe I had seemed like it was made of tinfoil. Got t-boned the first corner of a race and the thing was dang near pinched closed. No thanks
If that's the best option I'll live with the body deforming from the heat
If that's the best option I'll live with the body deforming from the heat
On the bumpsteer thing, another key to adjusting bump steer in this car is inner hingepin angle. Depending on your setup your inner pins may not be parallel which is possible because of the pivot ball front end. If that's the case then the height of the outer end of the steering link changed relative to all the other points in in the suspension and there's no way to get the bump steer out until the inner pins are parallel. As porkchop pointed out, the bump steer isn't there by accident, don't be surprised if the car picks up some weird quirks if you take it out.
05-10-2009, 03:02 PM
#3514
Can someone tell what set-up changes i can make to have more on power steering. My diffs are 5-7-2. my shocks are 350 front and rear. Everything should be Ashtons Setup. I have no on power steering.
05-10-2009, 03:06 PM
#3515
Front:
Kingpin 1mm washer
Chamber angle -1
Toe Out -1
Rebound stop(shock Length)110mm
Swaybar 2.3mm
Wheel hub stock
Lower arm mount 0
Kick up-up
Upper arms all the way back
upper arm mounts center
lower arms centered
Shocks,6 hole piston(1.4) 500wt,9.50 spring,middle on tower,outside on arm
Ride height 29mm
akerman back
Rear:
Chamber angle -1
Rear Toe 3
Anti squat 2
Rear Chamber link down on tower,middle on hub
Rear Hubs 1mm back from center,lower hole in hub
Shocks,6 hole pistons(1.2)350wt,10.75 spring,middle on tower,outside on arm
swaybar 2.8
Rebound stop(shock length)126mm
Rear arms back 1mm
Ride height,29mm
Plastic uprights
Stock wheel hubs
Diffs-5/5/3
05-10-2009, 05:39 PM
#3516
Two set-up changes that would be faster to adjust would be to move the front upper arms all the way forward(all shims behind arm), second would be to slightly lower the front ride height. Third change to try would be to reduce the front kick-up by either going to the 1 front block(if already useing the 1 block, flip the front bushing over so the hole is lowered). I would not do all at once, try each seperately then add a second change if one of the previous changes was not enough.
05-10-2009, 05:46 PM
#3517
[QUOTE=Davidka;5792888]The ninja pipe you had was likely made by Novarossi (GRP made Ninja engine, correct?), the newer Ninja pipes are OS made. Much thicker and stronger.
Novarossi does not make ninja pipes. GRP made the engines and pipes. They made a running change with the first version of Ninja 2053 pipe to a much more stronger material due to the pipe being a little more fragile than they normally are.
Novarossi does not make ninja pipes. GRP made the engines and pipes. They made a running change with the first version of Ninja 2053 pipe to a much more stronger material due to the pipe being a little more fragile than they normally are.
05-10-2009, 05:46 PM
#3518
Cool, Thanks for the advice on the setups. I am going to try some changes
05-10-2009, 06:07 PM
#3519
[QUOTE=Poppin Fresh;5794968]
Are you saying GRP makes Ninja engines?
I thought they were made by OS
The ninja pipe you had was likely made by Novarossi (GRP made Ninja engine, correct?), the newer Ninja pipes are OS made. Much thicker and stronger.
Novarossi does not make ninja pipes. GRP made the engine and the pipes. They made a running change with the first version of Ninja 2053 pipe to a much more stronger material due to the pipe being a little more fragile than they normally are.
Novarossi does not make ninja pipes. GRP made the engine and the pipes. They made a running change with the first version of Ninja 2053 pipe to a much more stronger material due to the pipe being a little more fragile than they normally are.
I thought they were made by OS
05-10-2009, 06:09 PM
#3520
05-10-2009, 06:43 PM
#3521
05-10-2009, 06:50 PM
#3522
05-10-2009, 06:55 PM
#3523
heres a pic of the 4mm spacer on the ackerman arm.
Im thinking, maybe if I went the other way, as in lifted the ball on the upright, it would do the same thing, Because I saw another car with no bumpsteer, and the steering rods were almost on a flat angle, any ideas?
Im thinking, maybe if I went the other way, as in lifted the ball on the upright, it would do the same thing, Because I saw another car with no bumpsteer, and the steering rods were almost on a flat angle, any ideas?
05-10-2009, 07:01 PM
#3524
I have about 2.5mm under my ackerman, and combined with the upper arm inner hinge pin inserts at the lowest position, my full compression bumpsteer is much less, and full droop bumpsteer is not much worse than factory. With 4mm there much be crazy toe out at full droop.
05-10-2009, 07:51 PM
#3525