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Mugen MBX6

Old 05-10-2009, 06:07 PM
  #3511  
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[QUOTE=Poppin Fresh;5794968]
Originally Posted by Davidka
The ninja pipe you had was likely made by Novarossi (GRP made Ninja engine, correct?), the newer Ninja pipes are OS made. Much thicker and stronger.

Novarossi does not make ninja pipes. GRP made the engine and the pipes. They made a running change with the first version of Ninja 2053 pipe to a much more stronger material due to the pipe being a little more fragile than they normally are.
Are you saying GRP makes Ninja engines?
I thought they were made by OS
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Old 05-10-2009, 06:09 PM
  #3512  
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[QUOTE=OfnaJoe;5795079]
Originally Posted by Poppin Fresh

Are you saying GRP makes Ninja engines?
I thought they were made by OS
there were two ninja motor first was made by grp
the new ones are made by os
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Old 05-10-2009, 06:43 PM
  #3513  
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Originally Posted by T. Thomas
Two set-up changes that would be faster to adjust would be to move the front upper arms all the way forward(all shims behind arm).
This would reduce caster for more off power steering, not on power.
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Old 05-10-2009, 06:50 PM
  #3514  
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Originally Posted by steve wood
Can someone tell what set-up changes i can make to have more on power steering. My diffs are 5-7-2. my shocks are 350 front and rear. Everything should be Ashtons Setup. I have no on power steering.
Limit the front droop a few millimeters, move the rear hubs back a couple millimeters, and go easier on the throttle till you are pointed the right direction.
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Old 05-10-2009, 06:55 PM
  #3515  
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heres a pic of the 4mm spacer on the ackerman arm.
Im thinking, maybe if I went the other way, as in lifted the ball on the upright, it would do the same thing, Because I saw another car with no bumpsteer, and the steering rods were almost on a flat angle, any ideas?
Attached Thumbnails Mugen MBX6-4mm-spacer.jpg  
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Old 05-10-2009, 07:01 PM
  #3516  
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Originally Posted by Dal
heres a pic of the 4mm spacer on the ackerman arm.
Im thinking, maybe if I went the other way, as in lifted the ball on the upright, it would do the same thing, Because I saw another car with no bumpsteer, and the steering rods were almost on a flat angle, any ideas?
I have about 2.5mm under my ackerman, and combined with the upper arm inner hinge pin inserts at the lowest position, my full compression bumpsteer is much less, and full droop bumpsteer is not much worse than factory. With 4mm there much be crazy toe out at full droop.
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Old 05-10-2009, 07:51 PM
  #3517  
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Originally Posted by thuren
This would reduce caster for more off power steering, not on power.
Thuren is correct, I mistakenly remembered backwards, move the arms all the way to the rear(clips in front of arm).

Last edited by T. Thomas; 05-11-2009 at 04:32 AM.
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Old 05-10-2009, 07:57 PM
  #3518  
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If your going to adjust the tie-rods or ackerman with shims, just make sure you adjust it to you ride height, droop and toe-out. One you make changes to these settings, you may have to re-adjust the shiming also.
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Old 05-11-2009, 12:23 AM
  #3519  
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Originally Posted by Dal
heres a pic of the 4mm spacer on the ackerman arm.
Im thinking, maybe if I went the other way, as in lifted the ball on the upright, it would do the same thing, Because I saw another car with no bumpsteer, and the steering rods were almost on a flat angle, any ideas?

Going the other way would help reduce bumpsteer at full droop only.

With the spacers under the Ackerman plate as you have it you are helping reduce the bumpsteer at full chassis compression, i.e. all the way down.

Putting spacers under the pivot ball out on the upright would have the opposite affect and help reduce bump steer at full chassis up position or full droop.

Its either going to be one or the other with anything you do. It just depends at what end of the suspension travel you want to reduce the bumpsteer. And its going to make it worse at the other end of the suspension travel too with what ever way you decide to go.

I think stock is about somewhere in-between so the bump steer is about even between full up travel and full down travel. Or close enough anyway.

For me i think putting the spacers under the Ackerman is going to be of more use. As the front wheels are not doing much at full up chassis travel ( full droop) as most of the cars weight is being transferred to the back wheels when that happens. So less bumpsteer there is not going to be of much use i don't think.

But when you get off the gas and the front of the chassis starts to dive down for when you are going round a corner then i can see less bump steer there would have a great benefit. Stops the outside wheel towing out.

But i don't know how much of this is going to help if at all and we could be better off just leaving it as stock and adjust other things in the setup to get the car to steer better like we want ?

Could just be mucking things up more ? Who knows.
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Old 05-11-2009, 05:18 AM
  #3520  
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hey guys i just picked up a used mbx6, how do i tell if it is the updated kit? thanks!
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Old 05-11-2009, 05:32 AM
  #3521  
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losiracer, the most telling thing is the springs and swaybars, if they're 10.75/9.75 springs and 2.3/2.8 swaybars you've got the newer kit.

The bump steer is built into the car for a reason. Mugen could have built the car without it if they wanted to.
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Old 05-11-2009, 06:49 AM
  #3522  
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How many of you run the Aluminum front shock tower on the 6?,,,,,if any!
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Old 05-11-2009, 07:01 AM
  #3523  
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Originally Posted by justag3
How many of you run the Aluminum front shock tower on the 6?,,,,,if any!
I DO......... CF stocker lasted 2 weeks
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:02 AM
  #3524  
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Originally Posted by justag3
How many of you run the Aluminum front shock tower on the 6?,,,,,if any!
No need, I've cracked 1 carbon 1 in 8 months & it was a crash that would have broken anything.
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Old 05-11-2009, 09:19 AM
  #3525  
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Originally Posted by justag3
How many of you run the Aluminum front shock tower on the 6?,,,,,if any!
Mos trun the carbon ones. It really depends on the track's surface. If you're on a blue groove track that's rock hard then you're probably more likely to damage the carbon, be it the edges or otherwise. Most are finding the c/f towers strong enough.
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