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Mugen MBX6

Old 09-21-2014, 05:38 PM
  #18511  
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Originally Posted by Blackpearl#1
Anyone?
Sorry no one has replied, both of these work. I buy three of the Turnigy for one pro-tech.

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...dProduct=28653

http://www.amain.com/ProTek-R-C-Li-P...er-Plug/p15789

Cheers
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Old 09-23-2014, 07:50 PM
  #18512  
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Originally Posted by Crash Test Dumy
Sorry no one has replied, both of these work. I buy three of the Turnigy for one pro-tech.

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...dProduct=28653

http://www.amain.com/ProTek-R-C-Li-P...er-Plug/p15789

Cheers
Thank you for the response. Much appreciated
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Old 09-28-2014, 04:51 PM
  #18513  
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Anyone found some good brake discs and pads from other cars which work on the MBX6? I need new brake pads and the Mugen ones are quite expensive, so I'm looking for some alternatives
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Old 11-07-2014, 07:16 AM
  #18514  
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Hi guys,

The radio plate Sworkz is good in a mbx6?
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Old 11-07-2014, 07:23 PM
  #18515  
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I have a new MBX6 chassis (not the R). Any offer plus shipping.
PM me.
E
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Old 11-08-2014, 05:43 AM
  #18516  
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Default NEW 6 and 6T parts

I have a shit-ton of parts for this car and truck.
Also have an eco going on the block next month to clean a spot for the new one.
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Old 11-08-2014, 06:51 AM
  #18517  
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Originally Posted by nitrofuel
Hi guys,

The radio plate Sworkz is good in a mbx6?
Might not drop in but worst case you will have to drill some holes in the chassis.
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Old 11-11-2014, 08:42 AM
  #18518  
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Hello,

I am confused with the set-ups by the pros, concering droop&rebound. I know this has been asked many times, but what does it mean eg. when in MBX6 setups Savoya (Euros 2010) writes "maxi rebound", both front and rear? Does that mean the rebound stop (as marked on the MBX6 setup sheet) has the smallest value in milimeters (meaning full droop) or the biggest value (meaning basically no droop)? Compared to onroad where droop, downstop and ride height are measured very differently it can get a little confusing dealing with rebound stop, shock length and spring adjustment.
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Old 11-11-2014, 05:42 PM
  #18519  
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Originally Posted by UrabusDenis
Hello,

I am confused with the set-ups by the pros, concering droop&rebound. I know this has been asked many times, but what does it mean eg. when in MBX6 setups Savoya (Euros 2010) writes "maxi rebound", both front and rear? Does that mean the rebound stop (as marked on the MBX6 setup sheet) has the smallest value in milimeters (meaning full droop) or the biggest value (meaning basically no droop)? Compared to onroad where droop, downstop and ride height are measured very differently it can get a little confusing dealing with rebound stop, shock length and spring adjustment.
Ride Height is going to be measured from the chassis bottom to the tabletop. This will generally look like 23mm front, 27mm rear. You can try eyeballing it with a ruler or cut a straight piece of tubing to the desired dimension and hold it under the car with your needle nose pliers. Measure at the flat area not where the antidive is built in (front angle).

Rebound/Droop is the distance between screws holding your shocks in place. It will look something like 103mm front, 127mm rear. The screws to change this dimension are called Droop Screws and are located on the bottom of each arm toward the inside, resting on the chassis. They are not setting droop, but are setting the rebound dimension. Since you do not want your shock bottoming out on every jump you want to set this screw to your max shock travel minus a little touch so that it never bottoms out. Now this dimension, that gives you Renos "Maxi Rebound", will be the longest you can get without hitting the shock bottom.

Hope that clears it up for ya,

Last edited by RushDL; 11-12-2014 at 07:43 PM.
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Old 11-17-2014, 03:00 PM
  #18520  
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Default Fioroni Tractive diffs

I have 2 f/r and one centre, Fioroni Tractive diffs for MBX6 and MBX6R
Link to fioroni site.............
http://www.fioroni.com/inglese/prodo...cerca=tractive
with extra side plate things, with different degrees of angle for sale, hardly used at all, been sitting in box for 5 years.
if anyone wants them,
$120 US delivered anywhere, for all of it

PM if interested
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Old 03-16-2015, 10:51 AM
  #18521  
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Looking for M2C Lipo hold down. No longer on their site and out of stock. Please PM, thanks
Kris
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Old 03-17-2015, 01:58 PM
  #18522  
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Anyone knows if it's possible to convert the MBX6 threaded inner hinge pins to MBX7 captured hinge pins and suspension inserts?
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Old 03-17-2015, 07:35 PM
  #18523  
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the 6 and 7 diff housings are the same so that means the 7 captured arm holder will bolt straight on but there are a few issues to be addressed, firstly the 7 arm holder on the rear are wider so you will need the 7 rear arms, hubs and shafts cause they are 3.5mm on the 7, not sure if the droop screws will be touching the chassis being wider.

Up front, a mate did the 7 holders on his 6T, he had to cut the chassis cause the rear holder has edges that locate over the edge of the 7 chassis, or you could trim those edges off.

In the end you might be better off spending a few hundred on a good used 7.
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Old 03-18-2015, 08:42 AM
  #18524  
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Originally Posted by curacing2
the 6 and 7 diff housings are the same so that means the 7 captured arm holder will bolt straight on but there are a few issues to be addressed, firstly the 7 arm holder on the rear are wider so you will need the 7 rear arms, hubs and shafts cause they are 3.5mm on the 7, not sure if the droop screws will be touching the chassis being wider.

Up front, a mate did the 7 holders on his 6T, he had to cut the chassis cause the rear holder has edges that locate over the edge of the 7 chassis, or you could trim those edges off.

In the end you might be better off spending a few hundred on a good used 7.
Thanks for the reply.
Your right, once I start to change the plates it would be more reasonable to get an used 7. Still if someone knows if at least the closed inserts are cross compatible it would help tremendously.
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Old 03-18-2015, 07:08 PM
  #18525  
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We looked at doing that but the inserts on the 6 push in from the outside and the 7 push in from the inside so the recesses are on different sides, even the holes are different sizes so you can't just turn the front 2 holder around, I always liked the 6 system but the 7 is so much better in ease of diff removal and don't flog out (get slop) like the 6 inserts do.
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