Crash Test Dumy

iTrader: (4)

Sorry no one has replied, both of these work. I buy three of the Turnigy for one pro-tech.

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...dProduct=28653

http://www.amain.com/ProTek-R-C-Li-P...er-Plug/p15789

Cheers

Blackpearl#1

iTrader: (14)

Thank you for the response. Much appreciated

UrabusDenis

Anyone found some good brake discs and pads from other cars which work on the MBX6? I need new brake pads and the Mugen ones are quite expensive, so I'm looking for some alternatives

nitrofuel

Hi guys,

The radio plate Sworkz is good in a mbx6?

mebolson

iTrader: (41)

I have a new MBX6 chassis (not the R). Any offer plus shipping.
PM me.
E

RushDL

I have a shit-ton of parts for this car and truck.
Also have an eco going on the block next month to clean a spot for the new one.

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

Might not drop in but worst case you will have to drill some holes in the chassis.

UrabusDenis

Hello,

I am confused with the set-ups by the pros, concering droop&rebound. I know this has been asked many times, but what does it mean eg. when in MBX6 setups Savoya (Euros 2010) writes "maxi rebound", both front and rear? Does that mean the rebound stop (as marked on the MBX6 setup sheet) has the smallest value in milimeters (meaning full droop) or the biggest value (meaning basically no droop)? Compared to onroad where droop, downstop and ride height are measured very differently it can get a little confusing dealing with rebound stop, shock length and spring adjustment.

RushDL

Ride Height is going to be measured from the chassis bottom to the tabletop. This will generally look like 23mm front, 27mm rear. You can try eyeballing it with a ruler or cut a straight piece of tubing to the desired dimension and hold it under the car with your needle nose pliers. Measure at the flat area not where the antidive is built in (front angle).

Rebound/Droop is the distance between screws holding your shocks in place. It will look something like 103mm front, 127mm rear. The screws to change this dimension are called Droop Screws and are located on the bottom of each arm toward the inside, resting on the chassis. They are not setting droop, but are setting the rebound dimension. Since you do not want your shock bottoming out on every jump you want to set this screw to your max shock travel minus a little touch so that it never bottoms out. Now this dimension, that gives you Renos "Maxi Rebound", will be the longest you can get without hitting the shock bottom.

Hope that clears it up for ya,

Dal

iTrader: (4)

I have 2 f/r and one centre, Fioroni Tractive diffs for MBX6 and MBX6R
Link to fioroni site.............
http://www.fioroni.com/inglese/prodo...cerca=tractive
with extra side plate things, with different degrees of angle for sale, hardly used at all, been sitting in box for 5 years.
if anyone wants them,
$120 US delivered anywhere, for all of it

PM if interested

Blackpearl#1

iTrader: (14)

Looking for M2C Lipo hold down. No longer on their site and out of stock. Please PM, thanks
Kris

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

Anyone knows if it's possible to convert the MBX6 threaded inner hinge pins to MBX7 captured hinge pins and suspension inserts?

curacing2

the 6 and 7 diff housings are the same so that means the 7 captured arm holder will bolt straight on but there are a few issues to be addressed, firstly the 7 arm holder on the rear are wider so you will need the 7 rear arms, hubs and shafts cause they are 3.5mm on the 7, not sure if the droop screws will be touching the chassis being wider.

Up front, a mate did the 7 holders on his 6T, he had to cut the chassis cause the rear holder has edges that locate over the edge of the 7 chassis, or you could trim those edges off.

In the end you might be better off spending a few hundred on a good used 7.

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the reply.
Your right, once I start to change the plates it would be more reasonable to get an used 7. Still if someone knows if at least the closed inserts are cross compatible it would help tremendously.

curacing2

We looked at doing that but the inserts on the 6 push in from the outside and the 7 push in from the inside so the recesses are on different sides, even the holes are different sizes so you can't just turn the front 2 holder around, I always liked the 6 system but the 7 is so much better in ease of diff removal and don't flog out (get slop) like the 6 inserts do.