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Mugen MBX6

Old 02-26-2009, 09:28 AM
  #2761  
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king headz has a extended motor mount for the 6 now avail.
it did cut down on the chassy flex.
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Old 02-26-2009, 03:25 PM
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Hi guys, i m thinking to put my mbx6 on a diet and i was wondering wht is the best place to get ti screws, turnbuckles and some alloy stuff including locknuts from one place. Dont want to wonder around and shop from 2-3 stores.

Thinking to order most of them from tony's screws but cant seem to find any alloy locknuts in his site...
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Old 02-26-2009, 03:52 PM
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Tonys screws usually has everything you will need for the Mugen! His shipping is next to none, be sure to email him if you do not see anything on his site that you are interested in, i know he does sell the optional Mugen TI screws, plus he sells his high tensile strength screws on his site... good stuff...

Last edited by Jesse; 03-01-2009 at 08:18 AM.
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Old 02-26-2009, 03:56 PM
  #2764  
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Originally Posted by Panic09
Hi guys, i m thinking to put my mbx6 on a diet and i was wondering wht is the best place to get ti screws, turnbuckles and some alloy stuff including locknuts from one place. Dont want to wonder around and shop from 2-3 stores.

Thinking to order most of them from tony's screws but cant seem to find any alloy locknuts in his site...
Dont waste your time with the locknuts, as much as I service my buggy I find that the aluminum locknuts just dont keep there grip after being taken off so many times. Tonys hands down has the best price and service. If Tony does have all of what you need Amain will.
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Old 02-26-2009, 08:27 PM
  #2765  
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Originally Posted by Panic09
Hi guys, i m thinking to put my mbx6 on a diet and i was wondering wht is the best place to get ti screws, turnbuckles and some alloy stuff including locknuts from one place. Dont want to wonder around and shop from 2-3 stores.

Thinking to order most of them from tony's screws but cant seem to find any alloy locknuts in his site...
I would be cautious of putting the car on a diet my buddy has the Ti screw kit from mugen both upper and lower, he also runs the Alu. front tower, and was 5 grams over wieght at the last jbrl event we went too. If you only club race then thats fine but any sactioned events were they wiegh your car to make sure your at wieght you could be making the car too light and loose your race. One more thing i would like to add is i have compared the car to xray which is considered the lightest car available and they are so close you can not tell the difference by simply picking up both cars, after seeing a few x-ray's on my local track all that lightness leads to a bouncy car in the rough, for my personell taste i would prefer the car have enough weight to keep itself planted on the ground and let the suspension do its job. Thats my 2cents
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Old 02-27-2009, 06:13 AM
  #2766  
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Originally Posted by jsp619666
I would be cautious of putting the car on a diet my buddy has the Ti screw kit from mugen both upper and lower, he also runs the Alu. front tower, and was 5 grams over wieght at the last jbrl event we went too. If you only club race then thats fine but any sactioned events were they wiegh your car to make sure your at wieght you could be making the car too light and loose your race. One more thing i would like to add is i have compared the car to xray which is considered the lightest car available and they are so close you can not tell the difference by simply picking up both cars, after seeing a few x-ray's on my local track all that lightness leads to a bouncy car in the rough, for my personell taste i would prefer the car have enough weight to keep itself planted on the ground and let the suspension do its job. Thats my 2cents
I tend to agree with the above. I think there is such a thing as too light. I have found the lighter the car is the more of a handful it is to drive. They get tossed around more easily by the bumps and ruts and is harder to get the power to the ground. 3.300g is as light as i would go personally but that's just me. My MBX6 is sitting at 3.360g right now in stock trim and i feel it is about spot on for me.
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Old 02-27-2009, 09:25 AM
  #2767  
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Originally Posted by Timox
I tend to agree with the above. I think there is such a thing as too light. I have found the lighter the car is the more of a handful it is to drive. They get tossed around more easily by the bumps and ruts and is harder to get the power to the ground. 3.300g is as light as i would go personally but that's just me. My MBX6 is sitting at 3.360g right now in stock trim and i feel it is about spot on for me.
I dont want to do my car superlight, (stock is 3373) and 3300 is an ideal weight as you suggested . But doesnt the car gets heavier if you put fuel in it? Wouldnt this help overall handling?

Ofcourse you might say that during the race your tank emptys and you get lighter as you go but still you have some extra weight.
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Old 02-27-2009, 09:55 AM
  #2768  
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Driver does 90% of the job and car the other 10% left... with these high output engines a few grams wont make a diference to say that you won a race due to changing all the nuts in it.

Weight-Handling balance is very important and factories already spent a lot of money in R&D to find the perfect spot.

Just stay with stock nuts, your wallet will notice the difference more than you will as driver .
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Old 02-27-2009, 09:59 AM
  #2769  
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My car being electric comes in at about 3500g. I honestly think the extra weight helps the car on rough tracks. Where I do feel I have a disadvantage is on the tight smooth slick sweeping corners. I think the lighter cars just "stick" better in that situation. If anything trying to reduce un-sprung weight(wheels,tires,axles,hubs,etc) is going to be a win-win, as that will make the overall weight lower, but also give you a larger sprung/un-sprung ratio so the suspension can work better.
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Old 02-27-2009, 10:11 AM
  #2770  
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Originally Posted by Alffa164
Driver does 90% of the job and car the other 10% left... with these high output engines a few grams wont make a diference to say that you won a race due to changing all the nuts in it.

Weight-Handling balance is very important and factories already spent a lot of money in R&D to find the perfect spot.

Just stay with stock nuts, your wallet will notice the difference more than you will as driver .
+1........................ there are 90% of us out there that cannot fell the difference and probably never will!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! the other 10% we all know who they are and they might just might be able to feel the difference in grams!!!!!! remember it is off road and is very inconsistent track conditions that determine the driving skills...........not the weight of the car or the color of your body
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Old 02-27-2009, 10:23 AM
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Everybody is worried about extra weight on the car, what about all the dirt\mud that gets on the car during the race. You land a jump wrong and nose in and you got half a pound of mud on the front bumper!
I also think any lighter and it would affect handling of the car in the rough stuff!
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Old 02-27-2009, 10:28 AM
  #2772  
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IMO, the better driver's can feel and wheel a lighter car better than a heavy one. The lighter the car, the more it can get twitchy, unless you set the suspenion up correctly. The heavy cars are easier to drive simply because they don't react as fast to input and are easier to comtrol when you make mistakes. I would usully take weight off the drivetrain first, since its less mass in rotating parts and generally is easier on your engine and clutch. You're effectively getting more power to the ground and reducing the weight of car at the same time. After that, high mounted items like the shock towers and hardware are what I go after next. Removing a lot of weight from the car allows you to place weight elsewhere to balance the car out, so when doing this upgrades, keep this in mind.
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Old 02-27-2009, 11:01 AM
  #2773  
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Originally Posted by ezveedub
IMO, the better driver's can feel and wheel a lighter car better than a heavy one. The lighter the car, the more it can get twitchy, unless you set the suspenion up correctly. The heavy cars are easier to drive simply because they don't react as fast to input and are easier to comtrol when you make mistakes. I would usully take weight off the drivetrain first, since its less mass in rotating parts and generally is easier on your engine and clutch. You're effectively getting more power to the ground and reducing the weight of car at the same time. After that, high mounted items like the shock towers and hardware are what I go after next. Removing a lot of weight from the car allows you to place weight elsewhere to balance the car out, so when doing this upgrades, keep this in mind.
<<<<<<<<<<<<WOW COULD NOT HAVE SAID IT BETTER THAT IS WHY MOST RTR WEIGHT ABOUT 3 POUNDS MORE

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Old 02-27-2009, 10:53 PM
  #2774  
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Originally Posted by ezveedub
IMO, the better driver's can feel and wheel a lighter car better than a heavy one. The lighter the car, the more it can get twitchy, unless you set the suspenion up correctly. The heavy cars are easier to drive simply because they don't react as fast to input and are easier to comtrol when you make mistakes. I would usully take weight off the drivetrain first, since its less mass in rotating parts and generally is easier on your engine and clutch. You're effectively getting more power to the ground and reducing the weight of car at the same time. After that, high mounted items like the shock towers and hardware are what I go after next. Removing a lot of weight from the car allows you to place weight elsewhere to balance the car out, so when doing this upgrades, keep this in mind.
I totally agree the drivetrain is the only place i want to take any wieght off of, lighter drive train=better effceincy, less wear and tear on drive train parts such as diff's and drive axles, better fuel enconomy, and less wear and tear on our expensive power plants which= more use out them and less money in the long run. With motors between 200-500 for a good race mill i think those extra 2 or 3 gallons we can get out of a motor are very important.
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Old 02-28-2009, 12:44 AM
  #2775  
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I agree, if you want to lose "good" usable weight, lighten your drivetrain. Tony screws sells them at a great price, overall cheaper than the TI screw kits!
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