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Old 01-14-2009, 02:26 PM
  #2206  
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Does anyone have some pictures of how they ran the fuel tubing under the air filter so it doesn't rub on the brake linkage? Just not happy on how close it is to the linkage.

C.R.
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Old 01-14-2009, 02:57 PM
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I ran the fuel line under the air filter and it doesn't have any issues with the brakes. I run the line under the filter and between the tank/guard and the front of the air snorkel with the fuel nipple on the carb facing slightly forwards towards the center diff, just enough to route the line around the front of the rubber snorkel. Don't run excess line, make it neat and you'll have no issues. The Mugen line is not as floppy as other fuel line its it hold its shape pretty well.
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Old 01-14-2009, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by *Chrominator*
The retainer does lower it about 1.3mm , but it still hits it, not to mention that when you go to bleed the shock it's going to push it out farther than a 1/4'' .

The 1st pic. is one with out the retainer on the left, and the one on the right is with the retainer.

The second pic. shows how much it still hits with the retainer.

The last pic. is the shock put together with no oil , this shows how far out the diaphragm is pushing the piston and shaft.
Just to add some details on the shock/bladder. When you check your shock open like your doing now, it looks like the shaft will hit the bladder, but when assembled, it will not. As the shaft move upwards in the shock, the shaft will displace more oil, which will make the bladder rise and compress the air on the top side of the shock cap. Also, during use, the suspenion will almost never travel that far up and if it does, it will be sudden. This sudden upwards movement force the bladder upwards even more, clearing the top of the shaft. Over time, I find the Mugen bladders never break, but they stretch out from all the use of compression and decompression. You'll see this when you compare the old ones with the new ones.
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Old 01-14-2009, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ezveedub
I ran the fuel line under the air filter and it doesn't have any issues with the brakes. I run the line under the filter and between the tank/guard and the front of the air snorkel with the fuel nipple on the carb facing slightly forwards towards the center diff, just enough to route the line around the front of the rubber snorkel. Don't run excess line, make it neat and you'll have no issues. The Mugen line is not as floppy as other fuel line its it hold its shape pretty well.
I do but has dynomite pro brake throttle linkage here you go pdxninja
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Old 01-14-2009, 05:31 PM
  #2210  
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pic
Attached Thumbnails Mugen MBX6-mbx6-006.jpg   Mugen MBX6-mbx6-007.jpg   Mugen MBX6-mbx6-009.jpg  
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Old 01-14-2009, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by MIKESRCSTORE
pic
Hi Mike. What bodyshell are you running? That doesn't look like the Mugen stocker or the Shift.
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Old 01-14-2009, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by *Chrominator*
The retainer does lower it about 1.3mm , but it still hits it, not to mention that when you go to bleed the shock it's going to push it out farther than a 1/4'' .

The 1st pic. is one with out the retainer on the left, and the one on the right is with the retainer.

The second pic. shows how much it still hits with the retainer.

The last pic. is the shock put together with no oil , this shows how far out the diaphragm is pushing the piston and shaft.
you probably not screwing in your shock end far enough.

I screw in my shock end till the ball in the shock end just tightens, then back it off till its free...seems to be the perfect length after the fact. and zero issues with shocks.
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Old 01-14-2009, 06:21 PM
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this is how i route my fuel line, keeps it away from everything, sorry about the dirt, been busy, so i havent had any time to clean it up lol but no issues so far, seem alright.

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Old 01-14-2009, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Jesse
this is how i route my fuel line, keeps it away from everything, sorry about the dirt, been busy, so i havent had any time to clean it up lol but no issues so far, seem alright.

Yup that's how I have mine set-up from the very beginning when I built my X6. I just use the fuel line router and bolt it to where the air filter suppose to secure to and never had problem with linkage hittin fuel line.
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Old 01-14-2009, 06:59 PM
  #2215  
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Originally Posted by captain america
Hi Mike. What bodyshell are you running? That doesn't look like the Mugen stocker or the Shift.
I'm not Mile but that is the JConcept body. I have the same one on my X6. Hope that helps. The JConcept body has more interior room so that the linkages won't rub against or hit the body like the Proline Shift body. And the nose piece is alot better looking than the Proline one.
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Old 01-14-2009, 07:16 PM
  #2216  
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Thanks for the pictures...nice job with the tubing holder...I suppose that you just use the zip-tie to hold he air filter in place?
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Old 01-14-2009, 08:27 PM
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I make sure the zip tie around the carb neck and filter is nice and secure, I don't have any issues with the air filter.
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Old 01-14-2009, 08:45 PM
  #2218  
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Overtime the screw will loosen a little and move the fuel line back down but just reposition the fuel line and re-tighten the screw and its good to go.
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Old 01-14-2009, 09:06 PM
  #2219  
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Originally Posted by captain america
Hi Mike. What bodyshell are you running? That doesn't look like the Mugen stocker or the Shift.
NEW J CONCEPT BODY HAVE NOT RUN THEY JUST TO THEM CUT OUT STOCK BODY A SOOO WEAK
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Old 01-14-2009, 09:10 PM
  #2220  
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I WAS MOUNTING THE AIR FITLER IN THE screw hold but hear there was problem with it flexing and causing the filter to lean since 2 motor 1 ninja jx air filter fell off rookie move so new p4 is a rocket 10 tank s and counting mikel
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