jmaxey51

iTrader: (7)

i always run the 13 tooth clutch bell. for the indoor, i would try it with 44 first may work. i have ran the 44 indoors to smooth bottom out a little, but ones with big jumps with short run up, the 46 is needed.

Jeauxkor

iTrader: (29)

What lid mod? I too had issues with flame outs on my first outing with my MBX6. I thought maybe it was the faster throttle servo I installed since that motor never flamed on my other buggy. I finally got it to run but am wondering if im missing something.

mr240

iTrader: (61)

I installed a seal from an extra wheel hub bearing to the lid gasket to seal the lid opening better. Also added collars to the lid spring to ensure the lid closes.

Jeauxkor

iTrader: (29)

Still flaming out after all that?

Integra

iTrader: (8)

Its kinda funny How the Car the Boots were designed for wont hold on for Very Long, Yet a Car with Even MORE drive shaft angle and they stay on until you pull it off.


Going to Foley ? If so see ya there.

sykemike

iTrader: (2)

hey, i ran my first mbx6r this past weekend and come in second place. i've never run a buggy before in my life. it was awlsome. patient plays a big part. i've got a lot to learn in the buggy racing world. can't wait till next race.

BlakeJefferson

1/8th scale is a great class! In my opinion nitro buggy is one of the most competitive classes to run. I used to run truggy and buggy and got hectic trying to maintain both of them, while running truggy with my dad. I chose the buggy easily over truggy, I believe 1/8th buggy will be around for a long time to come! Glad you enjoyed your Mugen though!

NitroXray80809

iTrader: (24)

Well doing all these mods before prob didnt help. A clunk is pointless unless ur on ur lid more then wheels lol. U have a leak somewhere. Look at fuel lines as running see if you see any bubbles. The mugen fuel filters often leak I seal mine.

3DRCRACER

iTrader: (1)

When is it flaming out? Problems with the tank on Mugens are normally related to pit lane and refueling. Cold fuel hits the plastic and it shrinks after closing the lid. Or so I hear anyway. I agree with the above. Clunks are only an advantage if you spend time upside down.

E-Eddy

iTrader: (32)

I've been running the M2C 5 hole pistons for about 2 months now and have had very successful results with them on both the 6R and ECO. I've been running the 6R with 550 oil, 7.5 front springs and 8.0 rear springs with no rebound. On the ECO I am running 600 oil, 7.75 spring front and back with no rebound. I am wanting to try the new 1.35mm Tapered pistons from Mugen this weekend in both of my cars but I dont know where to start. What do you guys recommend running as far fluids, springs, and rebound?

Eddy

Mr LowDown

iTrader: (21)

is the rear upright for mbx6 the same with the mbx5?

BlakeJefferson

I run the stock set up. You can look at racemugen.com for many different set ups. I believe with stock pistons I'm running 450 front and 400 rear (mugen oils). With 8.25 damper springs both front and rear. I know on the mbx6 the stock set up and many other set ups called for different springs for front and rear. I'm not sure if the length of the chasis has much to do with it, but I noticed a lot of guys were running the same damper springs both front and rear.

Ross71

Yes, you will need the hub, bearings and axle from a 6/6T

E-Eddy

iTrader: (32)

I've never really liked the stock setup to much. Just felt a little too lazy and soft for my liking. I've always ran higher fluids and stiffer springs than most people. I think I'll stay with the same springs and try 450 weight oil front and back At first and tune from there with the Mugen 1.35 tapered pistons. What rebound do you guys normally run?

Eddy

Mr LowDown

iTrader: (21)

thanks ross71..