Jesse

To be honest with you, what i run may or may not work for others, which is why i hate trying other peoples setups, they never seem to work the way i want it to. I usually start out with a basic setup, i used what Stephen Bess originally went with off of RC CAR magazines website, and i dialed it in from there.

you can try locking in your rear with more rear toe, try a 3 degree rear toe and try adding in more caster up front or add in more kick up. You can also add in more droop..you can also try softer springs. you can also try adding the 6 hole pistons and raise your shock oils to around 40 front and 35 rear. you can also try messing with your anti squat...the options are endless, you just have to study up on what does what and give them a try and see which ones you like and don tlike.

Tires are huge as well, about 90%

what i personally like doing is taking my car out and run like 2 gallons or so, get use to it running the base setup. after i get use to the car, i then make one change at a time, so i know which is a good change and which is a bad change.

not saying its the end all, but this is what i got use to doing.

You can also try emailing some of the pros that run for Mugen, they may be able to get you dialed in at a faster pace. I personally like doing it on my own, its part of the hobby for me and i enjoy experiencing what does what and so on...

carlosm

iTrader: (17)

So the alternative to getting one of these narrower headers is to trim the mud guard so it doesn't hit? I run Jammin' pipes and headers and I'm have the same problem.

muaythai

iTrader: (1)

u damn right mate! how can they justify this when it already cost so much.

the main thing is the battery box. it really does not fit well, if mugen co. feel they needed up gradding then it should be available free! to those who already have the mbx6. i had to buy the whole stuff again knowing well all i need is the box!

ezveedub

iTrader: (17)

The Jammin pipe headers are wide. You can either try the Mugen MBX-80 header (narrow but sits pipe forward), or the Werks conicals (more narrow and sits pipes back the farthest) as you alternatives. The MBX-80 is more geared to 2050/2060 sized pipes. Anything longer will need the Werks style headers to fit perfectly. No trimming is needed when running these headers as they tuck in and clear everything so far.

allan42r

guys, mugen has made running changes on there cars to make them the best they can at that time. the new kits are comming with a softer sway bar and spring to help make the car faster. the a arms are really not needed unless full drop is used, which ive never seen a track where full drop would be used. the battery box is not a performance upgrade but it lets you use some of the lipo packs that are a little taller. i run for mugen and i dont have any of the new "updated parts" and i really dont need them, the car is very good out of the box. to come on a forum and complain about a company that comes up with a way to make their product better and puts it in the kit right away seems a little foolish to me. just my .02

allan42r

go 7 5 2 with your diffs without the s3 o rings, the 5 in the rear is way too much.

ezveedub

iTrader: (17)

+1, most don't bother with the new parts as they are fine with the originals.

muaythai

iTrader: (1)

no mate, i do not put the company down for no reason, the battery box is a problem. if one does not put any padding around the inside, there is a risk with vibration the covering over the battery gets stripped off.
with slight padding it is a night mare to close the box compared with xray which share it similar features of the box

ezveedub

iTrader: (17)

Depending on the lengths and how far out on the servo horn you place the brake rods, that will affect this. Also make sure your rods are even and parallel from the servo horn to brake & throttle. I'm running a Futaba S9350 servo, I added a 1mm spacer under the servo. It sat too low, making all the rods angle up some. If you have the older MBX5R servo attachment pieces, try the spacers.

ezveedub

iTrader: (17)

I just checked and the Mugen MBX6-80 and the Werks long header come up about even on the end, except the Werks tucks in more and is effectively a longer header overall, so a M or S Werks will give you more tuning options when your not using a OS/Mugen pipe set or need shorter tuned headers.

Jesse

I made every pipe i own fit in my 6, all i did was bend my headers slightly and its good to go.

i also have the werks conical headers, you can run a long header for more bottom, or a short header for more top end. i run a medium, worked great with my old novarossi 21-5 and Mugen 1005 pipe. also works great with the EB mod pipe.

most JP pipes come with a long header, the JP3 has a long header, so if you run the long conical header with the JP3 pipe, you should be fine without being scared on bending any headers.

carlosm

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for all your help ezveedub! I'll look into get the Werks set... probably best to get all three... I have some engines that I run the longer JP-1 pipe on and others that I use the JP3 or 4 on.

Carlos

slow coach

if anyone is interested after checking through twf8 oil conversions between the brands you can get a very accurate scale of oils

ezveedub

iTrader: (17)

Nice chart. I guess you see why Kyosho oil prices more. Seems to be spot on if its all accurate. One of the reasons I always say to stick to one brand to make sure everything is consistent.

Sam-E

iTrader: (3)

One always finds it amusing when only one person has trouble with a certain battery box, one self has found no trouble with the box. Perhaps one should sip tea and bake scones on a sunday afternoon instead of racing.