mugenjon

Hey Tony on your sight it says your out of updated upper front arms. When are you expecting more and also I replaced my right front upper and lower arms with the originals but have updated on the left do you think i should also change to the older style on the left it doesn't seem to cause any problems with setup or handling characteristics and not even that noticeable when you look at them thanks John.

ezveedub

iTrader: (17)

Use the Werks Conical headers. It goes back further and comes in closer on the inside on the MBX6. I have it strapped to a 367 and 9853 pipe with room to spare on front. They are about 74mm wide and clears the rear suspension. Tucks in very nicely and allows longer pipes to fit that otherwise would not.

captain america

iTrader: (12)

In so much as I don't fully grasp all the intricacies of what the C-shape vs square shape offer performance wise I'll have to say yes, regardless of shape. I tell myself that I'll start by finding a number of headers that'll fit and then I can widdle-down the choice from there.

captain america

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for the help yet again, ezveedub

Is this the one you mean?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/4966

ezveedub

iTrader: (17)

Yes, those are the ones. They come in S/M/L lengths, either individual or a complete set. The long header still will fit long pipes without extending forward over the mudguard.

Thopper

What makes it "active"?

jpz_67

iTrader: (57)

I would suggest a novarossi 41005, tucks the exhaust very nice and I feel performs better then the conicals. I bought a medium conical and used it with my 086 and I just did not feel the combo was right, motor lacked on bottom and on runtime.. I used the 41005 header with a nova 086 this weekend and , very good low end and screaming top.

TonysScrews

iTrader: (13)

Your welcome T!

TonysScrews

iTrader: (13)

Hi Jon,

If you still have the original front lower arm on one side, hit the sway bar mount area with a Dremel so that the edges are beveled to match the new arms. If your turnbuckle is not hitting the lower arm, then you don't need the updated lower front arm. On the rear lower arms, hit the sway bar area as well and then put a small dimple under the out drive so the arm doesn't hit it at full up travel.

Best regards,

TonysScrews

iTrader: (13)

Love the new MBX6 shirts designed by Robbie Collins at Mugen USA!

I bought the shirts in both Large and X-Large for myself as well as a Mugen black L/XL FlexFit hat. I'm sure they sell the shirts in smaller and larger sizes. The shirts are the very thick 100% cotton Gildan shirts. I added the shirts I got to my website in case someone wanted to order one but they are out of stock. I'm placing another Mugen order tomorrow so if anyone wants a shirt, email me and I can add it to my order. I'm not planning on stocking many of these shirts.

Here are pictures:




MBX6 T-Shirt (front)



MBX6 T-Shirt (back)



MBX6 Long Sleeve Shirt (front)



MBX6 Long Sleeve Shirt (back)


Best regards

mugenjon

What about the front upper arm having updated on one side and original on the other ran it today and seemed to work fine

JHN1

hey guys
has anybody had to trim their tank guard so the brake linkage does no hi it.

i got everything working and noticed that the tank is moving every time on throttle. should i shave some plastic from the bottom of the guard or is my linkage way off

thanks
john

mugenjon

just get one of these and you will be set

http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/D...ProdID=DYN2568

JHN1

thanks i will get that tomm. but how do you set the brake linkage with those ball ends. if possible can you post a pick

thanks
john

blktransam

iTrader: (59)

well raced the 6 for the first time today, rear end seems very loose here is my set-up on the new version.

track is indoor clay kind of slick but smooth for the most part some tight turns.

diffs are mugen 5-5-5- started with 5-5-2 but changed it to 5-5-5 seemed to help but still very loose. 3 degree rear toe with the 1 degree anti-squat on the toe plate. rear hub in the top hole, short wheelbase. camber link in middle hole on shock tower and in the rear hub. losi 25 wt shock oil front and rear wing in high position. ride height 29 up front 29.5 in the rear stock shock springs, stock sway bars.

comming from a RC8 this car is very ass end loose.

I like the car but I have to baby it around the turns to keep it in control. I am not a drift driver I liek my car to stick.

any help would be great.

Thanks,
Ryan