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Mugen MBX6

Old 01-22-2009, 01:55 AM
  #2296  
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Default droop

Hi guys , just interested in knowing how much droop u are running for a rough
track , low traction .The stock setting seems like heaps of droop ive never
run that much before.

thanks
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Old 01-22-2009, 06:42 AM
  #2297  
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Originally Posted by DIALED 1
Hi guys , just interested in knowing how much droop u are running for a rough
track , low traction .The stock setting seems like heaps of droop ive never
run that much before.

thanks
I am actually running close to full droop. I turn in the droop screws just enough to take the pressure off my shock caps. Works really well on rough tracks and the car has plenty of rear bite. I once tried running the car with less droop and personally did not like it but will try it again now that I have more time on the car.
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Old 01-22-2009, 07:35 AM
  #2298  
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Originally Posted by jpz_67
I am actually running close to full droop. I turn in the droop screws just enough to take the pressure off my shock caps. Works really well on rough tracks and the car has plenty of rear bite. I once tried running the car with less droop and personally did not like it but will try it again now that I have more time on the car.
Me too. I'm about 2mm shy of full droop. I run my rear arms a little under level to help with stability, 25w rear shock oil, and the tons of droop keeps the tires on the ground for the nasty stuff.

If the track is dry and slippery, I run a 2.3mm rear swaybar and no front swaybar.
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Old 01-22-2009, 08:34 AM
  #2299  
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Originally Posted by ezveedub
I just checked on my linkage and 52mm throttle rod with 60mm brake rods appear to be the correct lengths for keep everything neat. I have attached pics of it installed with those measurements.
On that topic, is it normal for the brake cams to have a wee-bit of resistance to them? I notice that the mugen variety with their plastic bushings don't float freely like the ones on Losi or XRAY cars. To cure that, I'm contemplating putting small springs between the brake calipers to prevent the latter from dragging on the discs. Good idea? Other suggestions?

Oh, and I did check the rear hinge-pin holders, and the bending of the aft one is still present even when the locknuts are off; it seems to be the result of the toe angle and the fact that the holes in the pills are straight 90 degrees, so the 3 degree toe difference puts the load on the plastic hinge. I can probably fix that with a reamer, but will likely opt for the M2C hinges instead, since they have the added bonus of having 2 fewer screws/locknuts to remove to access the arms or diff.
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Old 01-22-2009, 08:55 AM
  #2300  
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Originally Posted by captain america
On that topic, is it normal for the brake cams to have a wee-bit of resistance to them? I notice that the mugen variety with their plastic bushings don't float freely like the ones on Losi or XRAY cars. To cure that, I'm contemplating putting small springs between the brake calipers to prevent the latter from dragging on the discs. Good idea? Other suggestions?

Oh, and I did check the rear hinge-pin holders, and the bending of the aft one is still present even when the locknuts are off; it seems to be the result of the toe angle and the fact that the holes in the pills are straight 90 degrees, so the 3 degree toe difference puts the load on the plastic hinge. I can probably fix that with a reamer, but will likely opt for the M2C hinges instead, since they have the added bonus of having 2 fewer screws/locknuts to remove to access the arms or diff.
no it is not that is the only thing i didn't like about the cam bushing it seemed to bind up when you put it in the top pate so I took a bastard (round) file and loosened it up now it is better no resistance but be careful not to file to much
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Old 01-22-2009, 09:04 AM
  #2301  
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Default kingheads

I just talked to jim at k-hds and he said working on all the new cars right now and will have the center top plate with bearings instead of bushings real soon. the one from my 5r is diferent so won't work
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Old 01-22-2009, 09:45 AM
  #2302  
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Originally Posted by captain america
On that topic, is it normal for the brake cams to have a wee-bit of resistance to them? I notice that the mugen variety with their plastic bushings don't float freely like the ones on Losi or XRAY cars. To cure that, I'm contemplating putting small springs between the brake calipers to prevent the latter from dragging on the discs. Good idea? Other suggestions?

Oh, and I did check the rear hinge-pin holders, and the bending of the aft one is still present even when the locknuts are off; it seems to be the result of the toe angle and the fact that the holes in the pills are straight 90 degrees, so the 3 degree toe difference puts the load on the plastic hinge. I can probably fix that with a reamer, but will likely opt for the M2C hinges instead, since they have the added bonus of having 2 fewer screws/locknuts to remove to access the arms or diff.
i had the same thing with the brakes, pulled it all apart and put it back together and now its free just as the 5r was, must of had a small bind in it. hope this helps you.
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Old 01-22-2009, 10:05 AM
  #2303  
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If you crank down the 4 long & 4 short screws in the center diff mount too much, the brake levers will bind. Just back them off very slightly one by one till the brakes move freely.
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Old 01-22-2009, 10:09 AM
  #2304  
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Originally Posted by ezveedub
If you crank down the 4 long & 4 short screws in the center diff mount too much, the brake levers will bind. Just back them off very slightly one by one till the brakes move freely.
I agree with not tightening the bolts to much but mine was tight without any bolts was loose until I put it through the top plate then it got tight
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Old 01-22-2009, 10:20 AM
  #2305  
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Originally Posted by mugenjon
I agree with not tightening the bolts to much but mine was tight without any bolts was loose until I put it through the top plate then it got tight
+1 here as well but have always bought the bearing upper plate from kingheadz
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Old 01-22-2009, 11:16 AM
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I could feel the resistance in my cams the moment I slid them into the top plate bushings, even before I finished the assembly, so it's definitely a bushing issue. A careful bit of sanding on the bushing should do the trick, albeit temporarily.
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Old 01-22-2009, 01:49 PM
  #2307  
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Is there a one piece motor mount for the MBX6?
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Old 01-22-2009, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by JASON MAC
Is there a one piece motor mount for the MBX6?
Not that I know of k-hds will have one soon
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Old 01-22-2009, 03:38 PM
  #2309  
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what would you call this
Attached Thumbnails Mugen MBX6-mbx6bock.jpg  
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Old 01-22-2009, 03:40 PM
  #2310  
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i talk to jim a while back he is working on 1 but this one made in germany dont know how much but looks cool was like on the last page here

the 1 links sucks goes not where

mike
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