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Old 06-04-2009, 06:17 PM
  #3856  
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I use the Dynamite Pro linkage kit and love it
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Old 06-04-2009, 07:01 PM
  #3857  
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Is it a major issues if your linkage does hit the tank when on full throttle?
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Old 06-04-2009, 07:11 PM
  #3858  
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It can be, if it's too much pressure it could cook your servo or wear a leak into the tank, depends on the carb's throw I guess. Unless you tune your brakes frequently I don't think you'll be too bothered by it, the links turn pretty easily in the blocks on the servo horn.
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Old 06-05-2009, 05:40 AM
  #3859  
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Originally Posted by OfnaJoe
I use the Dynamite Pro linkage kit and love it
FTW the best iv'e used very easy to adjust
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Old 06-05-2009, 07:31 AM
  #3860  
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hi boys.does anyone have the mbx6 skins in electronic form?
if not,does anyone how can i create one?i have the blue ones.
thanks!
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Old 06-05-2009, 08:22 AM
  #3861  
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So is there any easy way to keep the linkage from hitting the tank? Seems like everytime i get it right, it will hit the tank and then i have to back it off some (loose brake) to get it to stop.
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Old 06-05-2009, 08:37 AM
  #3862  
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Originally Posted by pl_unc86
So is there any easy way to keep the linkage from hitting the tank? Seems like everytime i get it right, it will hit the tank and then i have to back it off some (loose brake) to get it to stop.
try doing a search if i remember correctly there is a post somwhere that tells exactly how to set up the stock tb linkage
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Old 06-05-2009, 09:43 AM
  #3863  
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Originally Posted by pl_unc86
So is there any easy way to keep the linkage from hitting the tank? Seems like everytime i get it right, it will hit the tank and then i have to back it off some (loose brake) to get it to stop.
The main key is having a long enough servo arm.
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Old 06-05-2009, 10:07 AM
  #3864  
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Originally Posted by pl_unc86
So is there any easy way to keep the linkage from hitting the tank? Seems like everytime i get it right, it will hit the tank and then i have to back it off some (loose brake) to get it to stop.
The linkage rods don't need to be as long as they come from the factory.
I set the linkage where I want it, then I cut off most of the excess rod at both ends. You still have plenty of adjustability and the rods will not hit the tank or the body.
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Old 06-05-2009, 10:46 AM
  #3865  
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Originally Posted by pl_unc86
So is there any easy way to keep the linkage from hitting the tank? Seems like everytime i get it right, it will hit the tank and then i have to back it off some (loose brake) to get it to stop.
The key is the angle of the rods off the servo horn. If this is correct the rods pass through sort of a window just bast the back of the tank. You could cut them down to minimal length but you may run into throw difficulties if you change to an engine that has a narrower carburator. For instance, OS's are really wide, Sirio/Star/Werks are really narrow. Changing between them caused me to have to re-adjust my throttle linkage a fair amount to accomodte the difference.
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Old 06-05-2009, 04:13 PM
  #3866  
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I don't know how that got past their R&D team. It has given me fits on a consistant basis. I end up getting it right. But surely there could have been a better design. Well, maybe not now that i think about it. Seems like mugen fit so much into the center of gravity something had to give. I am ordering the pro linkage set. Maybe mugen could copy it
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Old 06-05-2009, 06:33 PM
  #3867  
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Nothing about the linkage setup got past the Mugen guys, there's a right way to set it up and if it's right, everything clears/fits, just depends on the servo horn and having the links at the right angle so they move into the space that they're intended to go into. If you use the Dynamite linkage it is a little easier to adjust and nothing hits the tank but you will very likely have to cut a hole or slot into the body because the fuel tubing and knobs are now outside the servo horn. This also leaves them vulnerable to being hit by other cars. It works well, but it's not without a downside.
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Old 06-05-2009, 09:43 PM
  #3868  
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i have a 8ight 2.0 buggy im debating on trading for a MBX6 but it jsut came to my attention there is a 09 spec updated kit?? what all was updated in the kit...and is it worth while to just sell my 8 2.0 and buy the new kit if i cant finde a 09 model for trade?
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Old 06-06-2009, 03:28 AM
  #3869  
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The most important parts of the update are lighter springs and swaybars, those are the only things that actually make a difference in how the car runs in the updated kit. It also has small updates to some of the parts. The front arms have reliefs molded into them for the longest travel settings, the rear upper hinge pin mount is stronger, the radio box has a taller battery lid.

I have the 1st gen kit and I've only done the springs/swaybars. I have an M2C upper pin mount somewhere but I've lost it. Hopefully I don't need it before I find it again.
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Old 06-06-2009, 06:11 AM
  #3870  
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LOL! loosin stuff sucks... over all i dont know if you guys ever drove a losi but what could you say are the major handeling characteristics of the mugen compared to the 8ight?

i thought it felt less twitchy but seemed to needed to be driven smoother thne the losi car...i only drove my buddys mugen for about a tank but i really liked it..plus its a pretty bad ass ride
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