3LikesMugen MBX6
10-02-2009, 01:15 PM
#5356
it is but if you look at the 8B 2.0 it comes with #54 pistons as stock up front, if you convert a #54 to metric it comes out as 1.39mm and losi pistons are 6 hole as std, also worth noting Ghea make 8 x1.45 hole pistons for the RC8 and possibly some other cars as well !!!!! they are tapered though if that makes a difference as they state "for the rough conditions"
10-02-2009, 02:34 PM
#5357
10-02-2009, 03:27 PM
#5358
info
GHEA3051
16mm tapered piston with 10x1.1 straight hole.
Fits AE big bore
GHEA3053
16mm tapered piston with 10x1.3 straight hole.
Fits AE big bore
GHEA3056
16mm tapered piston with 8x1.3 straight hole.
Fits AE big bore
GHEA3058
16mm tapered piston with 6x1.3 straight hole.
Fits AE bigbore
GHEA3059
16mm tapered pistons 8x1.3 angle holes cnc-machined from delrin .
Fits AE big bore
10-03-2009, 08:44 AM
#5359
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
As i stated before, which in fact is true, the optional gear set will initially push the car out of A SLOW corner, i.e., 180*, before the gear set tops out in speed and the front begins to pull the car.
10-03-2009, 08:52 AM
#5360
OS power, you just agreed with ezveedub about the gear speed however, you're wrong about the second part. The moment throttle is applied, the front wheels will spin at a slightly higher speed than the rear wheels, center diff compensation notwithstanding (the center diff will only partially compensate for this). The front of the car pulls more immediately. Your theory only works in a situation where there is 100% traction (doesn't exist).
10-03-2009, 11:05 AM
#5361
Tech Adept
Reply needed ASAP
Basically have a 5 hour team endurance race in morning and my conical gear has worn down and is dead in my front diff of my mbx6.
I have no spare, no one at the track would have a spare so cant buy one.
I do however have a mbx5r, so i have found out the mbx6 takes a 42t conical and the mbx5r a 40 t if i changed both the bevel gear and conical gear would it fit.
Or even could i just swap out the whole front diff for the mbx5r one?
Thanks
Adam
Basically have a 5 hour team endurance race in morning and my conical gear has worn down and is dead in my front diff of my mbx6.
I have no spare, no one at the track would have a spare so cant buy one.
I do however have a mbx5r, so i have found out the mbx6 takes a 42t conical and the mbx5r a 40 t if i changed both the bevel gear and conical gear would it fit.
Or even could i just swap out the whole front diff for the mbx5r one?
Thanks
Adam
10-03-2009, 11:09 AM
#5362
Race the MBX5r. It might even be the better choice for an event like that.
10-03-2009, 11:16 AM
#5363
Tech Adept
Only worry is i haven't drove it since getting the mbx6 this season but i have refilled shocks diffs etc new bearings last week.
10-03-2009, 03:33 PM
#5364
Run the 5r, sounds like it's ready. Less risk of having trouble with the large diameter inner hub bearings on the 6 too. I'd be interested in hearing how the 5r worked for you after having run the 6 for the season.
10-05-2009, 07:18 AM
#5365
middle diff gets fried
Hello all,
I would appreciate your help to the following problem:
I come from the 200mm world and I recently built a MBX6. I ran 2 races and both times I faced the same problem, after a while the middle differential gets fried and the silicone oil gets black and comes out of the shafts.
It is obvious that something binds to rear part of the car and makes the center differential to differentiate all the time and increases the temperature and fries the silicone oil, which was 20K (20, 20, 7).
The problem is that we can not discover where exactly is the problem. When the car is on the table everything works exact,y as it should. I asked the local experts to inspect the car and after many attempts, no one can say what is causing the problem. It seems that everything is perfect but after a while the car becomes totally unstable and impossible to drive, because the rear part binds and the center differential has increased temperature and becomes very light. After 30 minutes final, my front tires were totally worn out, while the rears were in very good condition and of course, I suffered from on power understeering.
Thanks in advance
Dimitris
I would appreciate your help to the following problem:
I come from the 200mm world and I recently built a MBX6. I ran 2 races and both times I faced the same problem, after a while the middle differential gets fried and the silicone oil gets black and comes out of the shafts.
It is obvious that something binds to rear part of the car and makes the center differential to differentiate all the time and increases the temperature and fries the silicone oil, which was 20K (20, 20, 7).
The problem is that we can not discover where exactly is the problem. When the car is on the table everything works exact,y as it should. I asked the local experts to inspect the car and after many attempts, no one can say what is causing the problem. It seems that everything is perfect but after a while the car becomes totally unstable and impossible to drive, because the rear part binds and the center differential has increased temperature and becomes very light. After 30 minutes final, my front tires were totally worn out, while the rears were in very good condition and of course, I suffered from on power understeering.
Thanks in advance
Dimitris
10-05-2009, 07:24 AM
#5366
Tech Master
iTrader: (24)
Check to see it the rear center cvd pin is hitting in the brake rotor. The center pins are 1mm shorter than outdrive axle ones and if wrong one happened to get pressed in at factory, it would bind. Also check to make sure that the brakes are not hanging up or that under full throttle, if the front or rear brake linkage is not set correctly causing the brakes to come on slightly.. I did that on first one I ever built..
Also make sure that a front or rear diff is not shimmed to tight..
Also make sure that a front or rear diff is not shimmed to tight..
10-05-2009, 07:49 AM
#5367
Hello all,
I would appreciate your help to the following problem:
I come from the 200mm world and I recently built a MBX6. I ran 2 races and both times I faced the same problem, after a while the middle differential gets fried and the silicone oil gets black and comes out of the shafts.
It is obvious that something binds to rear part of the car and makes the center differential to differentiate all the time and increases the temperature and fries the silicone oil, which was 20K (20, 20, 7).
The problem is that we can not discover where exactly is the problem. When the car is on the table everything works exact,y as it should. I asked the local experts to inspect the car and after many attempts, no one can say what is causing the problem. It seems that everything is perfect but after a while the car becomes totally unstable and impossible to drive, because the rear part binds and the center differential has increased temperature and becomes very light. After 30 minutes final, my front tires were totally worn out, while the rears were in very good condition and of course, I suffered from on power understeering.
Thanks in advance
Dimitris
I would appreciate your help to the following problem:
I come from the 200mm world and I recently built a MBX6. I ran 2 races and both times I faced the same problem, after a while the middle differential gets fried and the silicone oil gets black and comes out of the shafts.
It is obvious that something binds to rear part of the car and makes the center differential to differentiate all the time and increases the temperature and fries the silicone oil, which was 20K (20, 20, 7).
The problem is that we can not discover where exactly is the problem. When the car is on the table everything works exact,y as it should. I asked the local experts to inspect the car and after many attempts, no one can say what is causing the problem. It seems that everything is perfect but after a while the car becomes totally unstable and impossible to drive, because the rear part binds and the center differential has increased temperature and becomes very light. After 30 minutes final, my front tires were totally worn out, while the rears were in very good condition and of course, I suffered from on power understeering.
Thanks in advance
Dimitris
