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Mugen MBX6

Old 01-15-2009, 01:49 AM
  #2221  
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Originally Posted by Jesse
you probably not screwing in your shock end far enough.

I screw in my shock end till the ball in the shock end just tightens, then back it off till its free...seems to be the perfect length after the fact. and zero issues with shocks.
Originally Posted by *Chrominator*
The shock end is screwed in as far as it can .
Jesse it's in.


Originally Posted by ezveedub
Just to add some details on the shock/bladder. When you check your shock open like your doing now, it looks like the shaft will hit the bladder, but when assembled, it will not. As the shaft move upwards in the shock, the shaft will displace more oil, which will make the bladder rise and compress the air on the top side of the shock cap. Also, during use, the suspension will almost never travel that far up and if it does, it will be sudden. This sudden upwards movement force the bladder upwards even more, clearing the top of the shaft. Over time, I find the Mugen bladders never break, but they stretch out from all the use of compression and decompression. You'll see this when you compare the old ones with the new ones.
Originally Posted by *Chrominator
not to mention that when you go to bleed the shock it's going to push it out farther than a 1/4'' .

The last pic. is the shock put together with no oil , this shows how far out the diaphragm is pushing the piston and shaft.
ezveedub I thought of that but like I mentioned it seems like bleeding is going to be an issue, since I normally like to set my shock rebound at about 1/8'' . Well I will try to bleed the shock and see what happens.

Thanks everyone for the advice.

Last edited by *Chrominator*; 01-15-2009 at 03:38 AM.
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Old 01-15-2009, 07:05 AM
  #2222  
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Originally Posted by fiveoboy01
Yes, use CA.

I just rub it around the outer periminter of the tower(and inside the hole as well too), being sure to coat the edge evenly with CA. It soaks in, cures and prevents delaminating and strengthens the tower.
I ordered a MBX6-kit a couple of days ago, and i am going to glue the front shock-tower. What kind of glue is CA? Im from Sweden and dont get all the english termes.

Thanks/ Oscar.
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Old 01-15-2009, 07:27 AM
  #2223  
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Originally Posted by Trollkarln
What kind of glue is CA? Im from Sweden and dont get all the english termes.

Thanks/ Oscar.
Oscar The same glue you use on your tires.
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Old 01-15-2009, 07:32 AM
  #2224  
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Originally Posted by *Chrominator*
Oscar The same glue you use on your tires.
Hmmmm... I always uses extra thin CA to wick into the carbon. The tire glue I use is much too thick.
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Old 01-15-2009, 08:31 AM
  #2225  
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I guess it depends on the tire glue that you use, I use thin tire glue and used the same on the shock towers.
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Old 01-15-2009, 09:09 AM
  #2226  
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you just need thin ca glue

are you guy having problem wiht the shock tower spilting apart i run my mbx6 25 races never seen any prolem does it make i stronger 1 of my friend broke the front but i think he hit the wall hard LOL

mikel
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Old 01-15-2009, 09:24 AM
  #2227  
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I never did CA my shock towers. It has no splitting or issues at all.
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Old 01-15-2009, 09:46 AM
  #2228  
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Originally Posted by *Chrominator*
Oscar The same glue you use on your tires.
Thank you.
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Old 01-15-2009, 10:38 AM
  #2229  
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Default Mugen Paint Mask

Would anyone be interested in paint masks for the Mugen Logo and windows w/ borders?? This is for the stock body, but will probably be doing the Jconcepts body in the next few weeks.

I have the window masks done and should finish up the Logo this week. Masks are computer cut!
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Old 01-15-2009, 12:46 PM
  #2230  
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Originally Posted by kjam
Would anyone be interested in paint masks for the Mugen Logo and windows w/ borders?? This is for the stock body, but will probably be doing the Jconcepts body in the next few weeks.

I have the window masks done and should finish up the Logo this week. Masks are computer cut!
I am intrested. as long as the logo is the MBX-6 logo and you have the window masks for the jc body
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Old 01-15-2009, 12:47 PM
  #2231  
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Originally Posted by ezveedub
I never did CA my shock towers. It has no splitting or issues at all.
+1!
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Old 01-15-2009, 02:58 PM
  #2232  
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hey guys, my 6 is very twitchy on the rear end. i would like to keep my deep steering in the turns, but how can i make it less twitchy on the rear end just driving it? just doing basic driving and little turns, my rear end tails a lot. i was thinking of adjusting my expo on my transmitter, but i was wondering is there i can do in terms of setup. please list like a 1, 2, 3 list with 1 being the best thing to do to solve this issue.

thx.
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Old 01-15-2009, 03:17 PM
  #2233  
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Originally Posted by teeforb
hey guys, my 6 is very twitchy on the rear end. i would like to keep my deep steering in the turns, but how can i make it less twitchy on the rear end just driving it? just doing basic driving and little turns, my rear end tails a lot. i was thinking of adjusting my expo on my transmitter, but i was wondering is there i can do in terms of setup. please list like a 1, 2, 3 list with 1 being the best thing to do to solve this issue.

thx.
we need more information of your current setup. I am running the kit setup with the rear hubs all the way back. in the middle hole on the hub and the top. soft rear springs with 35losi oil. My car has all the steering i could want with the rear having enought grip.
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Old 01-15-2009, 05:38 PM
  #2234  
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Which kit setup is it ? The first one ..with 5/5/2 for diffs and 450 shock oil............or the latest one that comes in the updated kits with lighter springs , lighter oil , different shock positions , 7/5/2 for diffs ..........also lighter swaybars ? Thanks
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Old 01-15-2009, 05:42 PM
  #2235  
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Originally Posted by dead1dave
Which kit setup is it ? The first one ..with 5/5/2 for diffs and 450 shock oil............or the latest one that comes in the updated kits with lighter springs , lighter oil , different shock positions , 7/5/2 for diffs ..........also lighter swaybars ? Thanks
the older setup....
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