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Old 05-17-2012, 02:25 AM
  #16546  
dia
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Default Motorman007-KT

The setup you have posted is it with +5chassis? If I was to use it on a BCE,what are the changes I might have to do.Thank you for any input.
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Old 05-17-2012, 04:28 AM
  #16547  
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Originally Posted by dia
The setup you have posted is it with +5chassis? If I was to use it on a BCE,what are the changes I might have to do.Thank you for any input.
sir I found this

Mugen MBX6
Views: 1,356,325
Posted By mjealey
Hey guys, dumb question? I have the MBX6r and..

Hey guys, dumb question? I have the MBX6r and have switched to the BCE X3 pro chassis so it is a little shorter. Would the MBX6 body fit better since the chassis is shorter now? What body should I...


well if the bce chassis is shorter I would believe you would need to make the wheel base longer so KT setup will be somewhat the same.

maybe KT or Chad can shade some light on this.
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Old 05-17-2012, 05:39 AM
  #16548  
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Does anyone know if the o-ring size in the Mugen shocks is the same as the AE RC8.2 shock o-rings?
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Old 05-17-2012, 05:50 AM
  #16549  
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Originally Posted by o.s. power
has anyone done any in depth testing with the csi pistons? i have the black ones in my car, just curious if anyone has found anything while using them, i havent had time to run my car in the last 2+ months.
We have been running them and love them. We are running the new blue pistons in the buggy. Last week we ran 65/55 in them with the truggy rear tower.
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:22 AM
  #16550  
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Originally Posted by Motorman007
sir did you run the hubs? the 1mm in front and 2mm in the rear? also I ran the rear link long meaning the out side hole towards the wheel. and dropped the hub down meaning the top hole on the rear hub. once I did that I was no long a$$ happy and I also moved my battery to the back tray.

I was able to drive hard in to the turn get off the gas and turn then back on gas. on parts of the track we had. some parts I was able to line up much faster than I was before

you said pushy going to the turn? and a$$ happy to. that's a crazy combo.
Yes, I ran the +2 & +1 hubs. Short rear camber link and the hubs in the upper hole just as KT's setup showed. The loose rear was on acceleration which I attributed to the thicker center diff (10K) and the clutch engaging to hard (Nova BTT Plus 4). The push was from the mid to exit of the turns so lightening up the front diff allowed me to get on the gas sooner since the diff was working a little better.

The track was dry and dusty other than the very beginning of every other heat so I had one wet track (some what) and one dry dusty track for each of my qual's. The mains were 20 min so we only had about 5 min of a wet track and the balance was loose and very rough.

Hope that helps...
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Old 05-17-2012, 10:00 AM
  #16551  
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thanks sir

so you ran 5 7 5?



what Tires did you run too sir?
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Old 05-17-2012, 10:21 AM
  #16552  
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Originally Posted by Motorman007
thanks sir

so you ran 5 7 5?



what Tires did you run too sir?
Yes, 5-7-5. Proline Tazers (Soft)
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Old 05-18-2012, 03:23 PM
  #16553  
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Originally Posted by o.s. power
ran the csi blue pistons today, definitely an improvement over the stock 5 hole pistons for sure.

i started at 60 wt and 50 wt associated oil front and rear, respectively. this was to light on the bench for sure, but i tried it anyway. the car soaked up the bumps incredibly well, there were imperfections in the track i didnt even know existed, thats how much and how quick the suspension was working with these pistons. the front of the car bottomed out easily, i switched to 70 wt and the car felt way better. i bumped up the rear to 60 wt and the car was even better. overall i am happy with 70/60 wt f/r, the 70 seems to be a bit high, the front wasnt working as much as what it was with the 60 wt.

i am running the 8.0 springs up front and kyosho yellow with the truggy tower out back. i tried the new 8.75 springs in the back, but the car just works better through the corners with the yellow kyosho springs.
Are you using ae oil? Running stock rear towers or truggy towers? What type of track are you running this set up?
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Old 05-18-2012, 08:03 PM
  #16554  
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Originally Posted by jerweezy
Are you using ae oil? Running stock rear towers or truggy towers? What type of track are you running this set up?
yes, still running ae oil. while running the gen 1 blue pistons, i ended up running 80 wt up front and 70 wt out back. the 80 was still to light and 70 felt a touch to heavy. im running the truggy tower as i stated in my original post.
The track is indoors, hard pack clay, similar to ocrc but more moisture. panther rattlers and pl suburbs in clay compounds are the tires of choice. this was late feb early march when i was running this combo too, the temps were in the 40s.

because i dont have oil thick enough for the blue pistons, i went to the black pistons with ae 60 and 50 wt oil front and rear. i ran it for a few minutes on the same track, but couldnt tell the difference because its been 2 months since i drove my car. going racing this weekend outdoors, will definitely have more feedback to share.
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Old 05-19-2012, 01:18 PM
  #16555  
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i ran the new 6r us spec thurs for about 1.5 tanks before my night was over. the cap on the front hub carrier that covers the pillow ball on the bottom came off somewhere...it felt really good up till then, and halfway through my quali it felt sketchy all of a sudden. it tore up the hub carrier. so i'll put the ones from my 10 gallon parts car on....those things made it that long without ever having a problem. also the tank mounts are stripped on the bottom where they attach to the chassis. both of them.

impressions: holy steering! very responsive. i put a little more negative expo in. also, i ran the m2c steel flywheel with their 4 shoe clutch, no weights, os speed... DAMN! could barely pull full trigger on the straight...that fast. NOBODY was even close to pulling me, and straight line acceleration and speed were in the ebuggy range.

wow.
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Old 05-19-2012, 01:47 PM
  #16556  
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Default Tank mounts

The first thing I do on a new car is use longer screws that hold the tank mounts on the chassis.
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Old 05-19-2012, 03:16 PM
  #16557  
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eh, i'll just pull the old ones off the other car. they were replaced just before nitro challenge and they are perfect.
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Old 05-19-2012, 05:08 PM
  #16558  
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Looking for a good deal on this buggy?

Use coupon code "rctech"

Www.hobby-pros.com
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Old 05-19-2012, 06:18 PM
  #16559  
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Originally Posted by Rboesen1
Looking for a good deal on this buggy?

Use coupon code "rctech"

Www.hobby-pros.com

$569 with coupon code...

Nitrohouse has it for $549 free shipping without the coupon code applied.....
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Old 05-20-2012, 12:39 AM
  #16560  
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Default Re K Thatchers set up

Hi Guys, thought id report me eperience on K Thatchers set up, i run a mbx6r BCE 3+ chassis with battery forward. To get from my std set up to K thatchers i only changed diffs from 773 and use higher rear hub hole.

I first changed rear diff to 775, and it had better on power stability and less turn in at speed but more in slow 180 (happy with that), but did have a puch right out of the apex. Next changed to 7 10 5 and it sorted out the push, now the car has really consistant feel in and out of the corner (stoked).

The higher rear hub hole requires less preload of the spring, which made it feel slow and doughey in the rear , but the car was hooked up when there was med to high tracktion, but when the track dried and got slippy i preffered the lower hole. good on the day easy tuning option.

Track is clay, pretty smooth, big jumps.

Thanks K thatcher, Chad Bradley and other for your contribution, sure helps

Regards Will
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